Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Forum banner
1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just got a new to me Silverado 1500 2018 with very very low mileage I want to level the front tomorrow with a 1.5 inch leveling kit and I'm very worried about the electronic power steering any guidance would be greatly appreciated should I disconnect the battery or disconnect the three plugs on the rack and pinion and I've heard that people have had a lot of problems that way and I would like to avoid any issues if possible thank you
 

·
Premium Member
2015 Silverado LT Texas Edition
Joined
·
4,655 Posts
Why do you have to disconnect anything but the bottom of the strut and the stabilizer bar from the LCA? All you need is this;

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I don't know that's why I'm here asking and I'm not making fun of you trust me I was hoping I could get away with just loosening up the sway bar link and unscrewing the strut at the bottom and slipping it in I just don't know if it'll drop enough plus I have to get the one bolt past the axle shaft to put it in the right way cuz I want the bolt to go in from the top to the bottom
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
That's the kid I have will it drop enough to just slide it in I don't know my 09 was a little different than this 18 with electric power steering and I don't want to break it or mess anything up I heard of people having problems with the clips on the power steering rack just all kinds of things and I don't want to cause any problems
 

·
Premium Member
2015 Silverado LT Texas Edition
Joined
·
4,655 Posts
I don't know that's why I'm here asking and I'm not making fun of you trust me I was hoping I could get away with just loosening up the sway bar link and unscrewing the strut at the bottom and slipping it in I just don't know if it'll drop enough plus I have to get the one bolt past the axle shaft to put it in the right way cuz I want the bolt to go in from the top to the bottom
Bolt goes from the bottom up.
I did a 1"......no problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So as you did was just take the tires off undo the 2 15 mm bolts and you got your spacer in no problem. I would love if it was that easy that would be great but my instructions say to put the bolts in from the top down so the half chaps doesn't hit the end of the bolt 5th
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If it's that easy that would be great I appreciate the help the steering still worries me because you would have to shock the knuckle to get the tie rod off but if you say I can slip in a inch and a half leveling block without taking anything apart I would be a very very happy about that so thank you
 

·
Premium Member
2015 Silverado LT Texas Edition
Joined
·
4,655 Posts
If it's that easy that would be great I appreciate the help the steering still worries me because you would have to shock the knuckle to get the tie rod off but if you say I can slip in a inch and a half leveling block without taking anything apart I would be a very very happy about that so thank you
It shouldn't be any problem....you may have to persuade it just a bit with a big screwdriver or prybar, but not difficult.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Just disconnected the battery and sway bar length driver side was no problem passenger side was I'm not going to say a nightmare but it was very hard to get any play out of it I guess because the other side was already bolted up tight but it's all good it looks good I'll get a picture posted happy thanksgiving thanks for your help
 

·
Premium Member
2020 GMC Sierra 1500
Joined
·
54 Posts
:unsure:
As an old guy, likey quite older than most of you, I'm trying to understand the current "lingo". Back in my early days, there were cars/trucks that lowered the back end and were known as tail draggers. That was mostly in the 50's, fast forward to the 60's, and as I did, many dropped the front end for that (classic stance).
Now, as I see it, most "stock" trucks here are in fact fairly "level" front to back.

Of course, I'm quite aware of many wanting to raise up their rides and use bigger wheels/tires as a result.

So, as I see in the referenced site to get the "kit", it (as i would expect it to be) was/is known as a "lift" kit.

This brings me to my big question as this is not the only post where I've seen the term (leveling). WTF does that mean.

You start off with a fairly level truck from stock, and you either "lift" it and/or you "drop" it. I'm aware that some from usually south of the border that want to jack up the front and/or lower the rear as we did 50 years ago, but the term (leveling) as I see it here and associated posting doesn't help me to understand.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
If you look at a brand new truck for a truck that has not been leveled it sits about 3 in lower in the front than in the back from the fender top of the fender to the ground what we like to do is get them level or take away some of that rake so you have about an inch difference between the front and the back or some people go higher and make the back the same as the front it just makes the truck look better in my opinion
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Look at the picture of my truck in this thread the white one and you'll see it's pretty darn close to an equal amount of space between the front tires and the fender and the rear tires and the fender that's what's known as a level not a lift or a drop just level it out
 

·
Premium Member
2020 GMC Sierra 1500
Joined
·
54 Posts
(y),

OK, I get it now. But I gotta say my 2020 Sierra that I recently got (used with less than 12k miles) sits fairly level to me as it is.
Now one thing that was odd to me was that the drivers door sticker that contains the tire sizes and correct psi for them showed the wheel size as 22". I pointed that out to the sales guy as the truck now has 20" wheels on it which I'm quite happy with as I would imagine the 22" versions have less (side wall height) and would as a result rider harder/stiffer.
Sales guy said some of the new trucks came in with 22" already on them.

So obviously, the prior owner had them swapped out to 20" wheels.

All of that should have no bearing on level versus a little lower in the front as you mention. If mine has been altered (raised slightly) as shown in this posting, how would I know to verify that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I took a tape measure to my truck in the front was 3 in lower than the back so now it's about an inch lower in the front than it is in the rear it just looks more like a four-wheel drive to me and I've done it with my Ford I've done it with my old Z71 I've done it with every truck I've had so I just think the look is better than the factory rake I would have to see your truck but it sounds like yours is pretty level as it is but look at the Chevys and GMCs driving down the road and you'll see that the front end is much lower than the back
 

·
Super Moderator
2015 High Country Duramax
Joined
·
18,721 Posts
Not all trucks are the same. Some have more rake than others. Also depends on cab and bed configuration, they can look visually more level, even if they aren't.

The crew cab short bed trucks seem to both sit more level, and look more level in my experience. Both my 17 and my fathers 18 only took 2" to bring them basically perfectly level.

But my buddies double cab standard bed was a touch over 2.5" different from front to rear, and also visually looked like it had more rake.
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top