Fuel pump

359 Views 16 Replies 9 Participants Last post by JD1964, 8 d ago

JD1964

Discussion Starter · 10 d ago

My 01 4.3 has almost 140k miles. It’s running fantastic. The fuel pump is kinda noisy when compared to electric in tank pumps in my other vehicles which include both Chevrolet and Ford.

How long do these pumps last? Is 140k miles a risky proposition? I’m wondering if I should make a preemptive strike and replace it before it fails.

An additional benefit of the project would be getting the tank out of my way to access the frame rail for rust mitigation efforts.

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davester3500

· #2 · 10 d ago

I would say you are at towards the end of the bathtub curve, where it becomes more and more likely your pump will fail. If the vehicle can have unplanned downtime, then just leave it until it fails, otherwise, I would suggest planning a good time to do the swap and the other work you want to do to the frame.

Depending on where you and/or the truck has lived, you might also want to plan to replace brake and/or fuel lines. The brake lines noticeably rust along the frame rail from the front drivers wheel to the abs controller under the cab below the driver's seat, and also along the frame rail behind the fuel tank (hard to see). Fuel line rusts along the driver's frame rail.

Reactions: 1

JD1964

Discussion Starter · #3 · 10 d ago

Ok, so if I decide to change the pump, I suppose a good quality part would be the right idea. I see prices all over the board. I certainly don't want crap at $50. However to pay $300+ for an AC Delco would hurt the budget pretty bad. Are there reliable middle of the road choices?

The brake lines were entirely replaced with stainless steel by the previous owned not long before I bought the truck. I replaced the fuel lines myself not long after I bought it.

Reactions: 1

roorancher

· #4 · 10 d ago

Most guys on the site are going to tell you to go OEM.
Go with reputable sellers, like Rock Auto.
Amazon even has an AC Delco store. Stay away from Ebay.

Some other reputable pumps are Walbro and Racetronix.

Just a side note: I'm getting ready to replace the pump in my 91 Trans Am this weekend. Have to drop the rear end to get the tank out. The pump in the car now is 13 years old with 8000 miles.
Just remember that because you're installing a new one, there's no guarantee it will last as long as the first.

Reactions: 1

JD1964

Discussion Starter · #5 · 10 d ago

Good info thanks. I’ve got a Walbro 255 in my 92 Mustang. Been very happy with it.

On the 01 Silverado, is it possible to keep the existing sender assembly and just swap the pump portion or will I have to replace the whole thing?

samsquanch

· #6 · 10 d ago

I have seen a very noisy pump last over 250k miles on a 01 2500. You could hear it well over 10 feet from the truck. Never went bad, truck was wrecked.

My 02 Avalache factory pump was very quiet lasted 320k miles. Replaced with a $40 dollar ebay pump and drove it another 4 years to 415k then sold it. I did have to repair the connector once because I opted not to install the newer style upgraded pump with new connector.

Reason was I put an acdelco pump in a friend's 02 4.3 work truck. The new "upgraded" connector came with crimps. Few weeks later it was acting up and they let someone else work on it said I crimped it bad. Few weeks later it was acting up again, and once again my turn. The positive wire crimp acred inside and got all crispy. That time I soldered it and heat shrinked. Worked fine ever since. The included crimps were top of the line best ones I have ever seen. Not sure why they failed.

I have seen another truck run noisy for a few years before it was sold.

In my experience noisy isn't really bad. All the failures I have seen were all random with no warning. And usually they went bad on a full tank.

They say running low on a tank will kill the pumps in these trucks because it is not submerged. However the return line sprays directly onto the top of the pump and the pump is always submerged inside the housing. It holds like a half gallon at all times.

You can swap just the pump, but it's usually easier and cost effective to change the whole assembly. Plus less problems will arise.

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58nate

· #7 · 10 d ago (Edited)

My truck had 405k on it when I started rebuilding it. The sending unit (fuel level sensor) was bad when I bought the truck. It had a newer OEM GM assembly in it so it was changed at least once. I bought a OEM GM pump through rockauto cheaper than I could find one anywhere. The good thing about replacing the whole assembly is that it changes the pump / sending unit / and depending on the model fuel pressure sensor all in one shot. Changing the fuel pump isn't a real fun job so it was worth the extra $$$ getting the OEM complete assembly I think. Also you can buy a BOSCH if it's cheaper (they make the assembly for GM)

Now that I look back my truck is a 2011 and the old pump I pulled was dated 2013. So it was changed under warranty when the truck was 2 years old. The second pump lasted until current time and 405k miles but the sending unit was bad. So they can crap out at any time.

davester3500

· #8 · 10 d ago

When I first got my '04 3500, both fuel pumps were bad and I replaced both with the cheapest I could find, one for about $25us (from amazon, I think amazon or seller was just dumping stock because they didn't want to pay amazon to store it), and the other from ebay for just a little less than what rockauto was. One of them was an airtex, don't recall what the other brand was (it's a cab & chassis, w 2 fuel tanks). Both continue to work fine after 8 years, 150k km. Didn't buy locally, as local stores wanted $500+cdn for each of them.

JD1964

Discussion Starter · #9 · 10 d ago

I’m not terribly worried about my 140k mile original pump after hearing the stories here. For me now, it’s more about getting the tank out of the way to access the inner frame and the cupped portions that hold crap up there and make the frame rot out. My frame is surely in good enough condition to save. If I neglect it, the clock will tick faster.

Since I’m not hell bent on changing the pump, maybe I’ll try and just lower the tank enough to get me access to the frame. I mean like disconnect the fuel line support points and lower the tank without even disconnecting any of the lines. With the line supports unhooked, will this be possible?

MacQ

· #10 · 10 d ago

Have a friend who used to work selling used vehicles. He said the place he worked for would always install a new fuel pump on these pickups if the vehicle had more than 90,000 miles on it (had a greater chance of lasting through the 3-month/3000-mile warranty they gave).

Have you looked at RockAuto? They have Delphi pumps for just under $150 (complete assembly). I put a Delphi in mine about 10 years ago. No problems. Don't go for cheap...I've done that in the past with Dodge, Ford, and Chevys...learned my lesson, finally.

I tilted the bed up on one side to install mine. Not too hard (and easier than dropping the tank like I've done before). Just make sure you have a fail-safe way of propping it up so it doesn't come down on you. Some videos on youtube about this method.

99Silv4.3L

· #11 · 9 d ago

JD1964 said:
I’m not terribly worried about my 140k mile original pump

If it were my truck it would depend how long the noise had been occurring, on how many miles since it started being noisy.

MacQ said:
I tilted the bed up on one side to install mine.

I've used the til method twice now, adding chunks of 2x or 4x blocks between the frame and bed for saftey. It's my preferred method. But for the rust work, I'd definitely just hoist the bed and drive the truck out from underneath since it is almost as quick.

1) cut a hole in the truck bed (never done that)
2) drop the tank (never done that),
3) remove the bed by carrying it off the parked truck (done that once, takes extra people)
4) remove the bed by hoisting it with ropes (lift one side 6-12" then cinch the rope, lift the other side 6-12", cinch that rope, etc), then driving the truck out from underneath it (done that once, two 8ft step ladders spanned by a 4x4 or similar beam)
5) tilt the bed (done this twice, once to replace the pump, once to replace the tank pressure sensor)

Stelcom66

· #12 · 9 d ago

99Silv4.3L said:
I've used the tilt method twice now, adding chunks of 2x or 4x blocks between the frame and bed for saftey. It's my preferred method. But for the rust work, I'd definitely just hoist the bed and drive the truck out from underneath since it is almost as quick.

1) cut a hole in the truck bed (never done that)
2) drop the tank (never done that),
3) remove the bed by carrying it off the parked truck (done that once, takes extra people)
4) remove the bed by hoisting it with ropes (lift one side 6-12" then cinch the rope, lift the other side 6-12", cinch that rope, etc), then driving the truck out from underneath it (done that once, two 8ft step ladders spanned by a 4x4 or similar beam)
5) tilt the bed (done this twice, once to replace the pump, once to replace the tank pressure sensor)

I respect the amount of work any of those methods would take. I have a possible bad fuel pump in my 2002 Silverado 5.3L. I had it flatbedded home. I have diagnostics to do, mainly to determine if it's the fuel pump or not. I don't have the time or experience to do it myself. I'm trying to determine if I should make arrangements to have it towed to a local shop I've used.

I heard it's very common for the ring that holds the fuel pump in place to be rusted and very difficult to remove. If live in a rust area, just my luck the shop wouldn't be able to get it off and I'd need a replacement tank.

davester3500

· #13 · 9 d ago

Unless they are incompetent idiots, you shouldn't need a new tank. For my '04, the top of the fuel pump was mostly rusted away, and only appeared to be ok, because of hard packed dirt filling the depression in the tank where the pump goes. I spent a lot of time trying to get the ring to unscrew, but finally got it off by using an angle grinder and cutting it into 4 pieces, then prying each piece out. Did it carefully, and no damage to the tank.

JD1964

Discussion Starter · #14 · 8 d ago

I’m still not sure if ill replace the pump or not. However I might go ahead and pull the bed in order for good access to rust descaling and painting the frame. I have an engine hoist and plenty of chains and heavy duty straps. My garage is 24 feet wide and 36 feet deep so theres enough room on one side to lift the bed and roll the hoist back. This will keep everything in the cover of the garage so i can work even if its raining. Obviously ill still be contemplating the fuel pump replacement all throughout the process. The muffler needs replacing too so that would get done then.

JD1964

Discussion Starter · #15 · 8 d ago

2

You know I think this tank may have been down before. The plastic shield is missing one of the bolts on one side and two of the clips on the driveshaft shield are not engaged.

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tru-blu chevy too

· #16 · 8 d ago

Have you ever replaced the fuel filter? On an 01, it should be in the same place as it was in my 02.
Right on the driver side frame, inline with the fuel lines. I believe in 03 they stopped putting them in because
folks never changed them. My 02's gone now but I change the one in my work truck (99 5.7 3500) about every
6 to 7 months. They both use the same filter. Just a thought and good luck with it.

JD1964

Discussion Starter · #17 · 8 d ago

tru-blu chevy too said:
Have you ever replaced the fuel filter?

In fact I did. I had recently needed to replace the corroded steel fuel lines. I used a kit that converted to plastic lines and the kit also included a new filter.

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