[NickTransmissions]

I first noticed it this weekend when pulling the camper. I haven’t towed the camper since the rebuild 2,000 miles ago until Friday 5/31, I don’t use the M ranges except when I’m towing so this issue could very well have been there since day 1 of the rebuild and I wouldn’t have known since I daily drive the truck in regular drive range.

On Friday 5/31 when towing the camper I experienced one 1st gear downshift from 2nd after being stopped and thought “hm that felt weird.” I got to the destination, drove the truck probably 15 miles unhooked from the camper, no further issues. Today, on the way home, after about 70 miles on the highway I got off onto local roads to get to my house. The trans temp crept up (usual) to 180 because I was in stop and go traffic.. ( this is normal and once I start moving at again it drops to 165 range). At 180 is when I got the worst downshift while sitting at a red light with my foot on the brake and that downshift stalled the truck out.

UPDATE:

I have a work truck at work and I monitored data going through the M ranges, that truck operates the same as mine does in the video above and starts out in 2nd from a dead stop in M2.


I'm convinced the TCC is not disengaging when coming to a stop. I will have to watch data to see if the TCC is being commanded off when coming to a stop, this is going to be tricky to diag because I cant get it to act up when I'm not towing and when in normal drive range. I'm tempted to remove the VB and reinstall all the stock valves/solenoids.

Are you downshifting back to manual '1' when coming to a stop? If not, wondering if the TEHCM doesn't know to release the TCC though it should be once you hit the brakes...

Also, the solenoids don't come out individually, it's all or nothing with the TEHCM...Additionally, I'd think you would have symptoms in Auto mode if there were problems with the Transgo parts or anything else you did. Sounds to me as if it's a normal part of the manual drive strategy with those units but I could be wrong as I never see the vehicles and don't dig too deeply into the programming and command logic.

For now, stay out of manual mode....Temps look fine to me.

My first suspect would be TEHCM, if anything at this point.

 

[Mlogan89]

Are you downshifting back to manual '1' when coming to a stop? If not, wondering if the TEHCM doesn't know to release the TCC though it should be once you hit the brakes...

Also, the solenoids don't come out individually, it's all or nothing with the TEHCM...Additionally, I'd think you would have symptoms in Auto mode if there were problems with the Transgo parts or anything else you did. Sounds to me as if it's a normal part of the manual drive strategy with those units but I could be wrong as I never see the vehicles and don't dig too deeply into the programming and command logic.

For now, stay out of manual mode....Temps look fine to me.

My first suspect would be TEHCM, if anything at this point.

I'm questioning the TCC control valve in the stator and/or the TransGo TCC regulator apply valve in the VB. TransGo does advertise their revised TCC regulator apply valve and spring gives the TEHCM "finer" control of the TCC application.. I'm wondering if their return spring isn't as strong at the stock one, and at higher transmission pressures/temperatures the TransGo valve isn't releasing the TCC even when the computer is telling it to. Through a google search a found one instance where a rebuilder found a new stator had a sticky TCC control valve that caused it to stick when the TCC was applied however I'd think this condition would be repeatable.

another theory I'm running through my head is one of the tolerances within this circuit is on the tight side, and at 180 degree trans temp one of the valves are expanding just enough to stick in its bore. But that wouldn't explain why it acts ok in normal drive range.

I drove the truck to work yesterday and today simulating towing the trailer (tow/haul on, M5 range selected) and the truck drives beautifully like there are no issues. I watched data on the scanner.. while coasting to a stop the TCC lock up is commanded ON until the truck downshifts into 2nd around 15-20mph. At that point the TCC unlocks, the truck continues to slow down with brakes applied and the truck downshifts into 1st after it has come to almost a complete stop, maybe 5mph it downshifts (its hard to watch scanner and make sure I dont rear end the vehicle in front of me). It exibits the same data whether in M5, Drive, tow/haul on or off. One thing I did notice, when hitting the brake pedal the TCC does not command OFF. I expected to see engaging the brake pedal would command the TCC OFF until you released the brake pedal got back on the throttle and all other parameters were set (MPH, gear, engine load) than the TCC command would change to ON. I know these trucks use PWM TCC apply, so maybe the TCC stays commanded on but the PWM drops to 0.. unfortunately I cant find a PID for TCC PWM.

I have never manually downshifted the truck. M5 acts as a gear lock-out to keep the transmission from going into 6th, but it should not effect the shifting strategy for gears 1-5.. at least from my understanding and how the truck has operated for the past 60,000 miles I've driven it.

 

[Markabilger]

Hey Nick, I'm having a funky 6l80 problem you might have some insight on. I havent been able to find any discussions relative to my issues. It's on a 2013 Chevrolet Silverado 4x4.

I had my transmission rebuilt after having the typical TC shudder. Got it back Installed and drove it maybe 1k miles before I started experiencing a hard slam when coming to a stop, and a bad delayed engagement when going to accelerate. I took it back out to have it rebuilt again under warranty. I do know the trans fluid amd everything looked spotless.

The builder took it apart and didn't find anything wrong. But after we talked the symptoms over he ended uo wanting to put a new valve body in it. He ended up supposedly doing "All new pistons, clutches. plates, valve body and the torque converter"

I got the transmission back from him and installed it and low and behold my exact same issues are back. I programed it twice, once through elitek, and per the builders request through the chevrolet dealer. No change. After going back and forth with the builder I had lost faith in them being able to repair this transmission.

I decided to put a new TECHM in it and found metal in the techm screen. The gasket/screen looks to never have been touched or replaced. My problem still seems to be there, but Instead of happening all the time, it's only happening after driving for a few miles at 50+ then coming to a stop. then I go to accelerate and it's delayed a couple seconds then slams into forward gear. If I get up to speed and come to a stop relatively quick, it doesn't do it when I go to accelerate. Only after a few miles of driving then stop and then go again will it happen. Shifts through all the gears no issues and feels great minus this delayed engagement.


I'm wondering if this sounds like something some valve body work like a zip kit would help my issue, or if I need to tear it apart and look at my 1-2-3-4 Piston or anything else it could be. It's extremely inconsistent so I'm thinking more maybe a hanging valve vs a piston. I may just be optimistic.

 

[NickTransmissions]

Hey Nick, I'm having a funky 6l80 problem you might have some insight on. I havent been able to find any discussions relative to my issues. It's on a 2013 Chevrolet Silverado 4x4.

I had my transmission rebuilt after having the typical TC shudder. Got it back Installed and drove it maybe 1k miles before I started experiencing a hard slam when coming to a stop, and a bad delayed engagement when going to accelerate. I took it back out to have it rebuilt again under warranty. I do know the trans fluid amd everything looked spotless.

The builder took it apart and didn't find anything wrong. But after we talked the symptoms over he ended uo wanting to put a new valve body in it. He ended up supposedly doing "All new pistons, clutches. plates, valve body and the torque converter"

I got the transmission back from him and installed it and low and behold my exact same issues are back. I programed it twice, once through elitek, and per the builders request through the chevrolet dealer. No change. After going back and forth with the builder I had lost faith in them being able to repair this transmission.

I decided to put a new TECHM in it and found metal in the techm screen. The gasket/screen looks to never have been touched or replaced. My problem still seems to be there, but Instead of happening all the time, it's only happening after driving for a few miles at 50+ then coming to a stop. then I go to accelerate and it's delayed a couple seconds then slams into forward gear. If I get up to speed and come to a stop relatively quick, it doesn't do it when I go to accelerate. Only after a few miles of driving then stop and then go again will it happen. Shifts through all the gears no issues and feels great minus this delayed engagement.


I'm wondering if this sounds like something some valve body work like a zip kit would help my issue, or if I need to tear it apart and look at my 1-2-3-4 Piston or anything else it could be. It's extremely inconsistent so I'm thinking more maybe a hanging valve vs a piston. I may just be optimistic.

Hi Mark,

Your transmission builder should have installed a Sonnax zip kit after thoroughly vacuum testing the assembled valve body castings to find areas of weakness and sealing integrity that the Zip kit wouldn't fix. The TEHCM, speed sensor harness assembly and IMS should have also all been replaced (I never reuse them).

I'd put a bi directional scan tool on the vehicle and take for a test drive with live engine and transmission data displayed so you can see what's going on with the powertrain. There's no point in just throwing parts at it until you can see some data-driven evidence of what's happening...Clunky, bumpy up/down shifts can be TEHCM (solenoids, pressure switches, even trans temp sensor), valve body or worn pump...The pressure regulator valve in these units wears chronically and should always be replaced with the valve from a hydraulic correction kit like the Zip kit from Sonnax. If none of this was done, it's possible that's driving your symptoms but won't know until that stuff is tested.

Here's how to properly evaluate a valve body and pump for problems:

Determine if your builder performed the above testing and replaced the TEHCM, etc.

Then put a scanner on the vehicle and go from there...

 

[NickTransmissions]

I'm questioning the TCC control valve in the stator and/or the TransGo TCC regulator apply valve in the VB. TransGo does advertise their revised TCC regulator apply valve and spring gives the TEHCM "finer" control of the TCC application.. I'm wondering if their return spring isn't as strong at the stock one, and at higher transmission pressures/temperatures the TransGo valve isn't releasing the TCC even when the computer is telling it to. Through a google search a found one instance where a rebuilder found a new stator had a sticky TCC control valve that caused it to stick when the TCC was applied however I'd think this condition would be repeatable.

another theory I'm running through my head is one of the tolerances within this circuit is on the tight side, and at 180 degree trans temp one of the valves are expanding just enough to stick in its bore. But that wouldn't explain why it acts ok in normal drive range.

I drove the truck to work yesterday and today simulating towing the trailer (tow/haul on, M5 range selected) and the truck drives beautifully like there are no issues. I watched data on the scanner.. while coasting to a stop the TCC lock up is commanded ON until the truck downshifts into 2nd around 15-20mph. At that point the TCC unlocks, the truck continues to slow down with brakes applied and the truck downshifts into 1st after it has come to almost a complete stop, maybe 5mph it downshifts (its hard to watch scanner and make sure I dont rear end the vehicle in front of me). It exibits the same data whether in M5, Drive, tow/haul on or off. One thing I did notice, when hitting the brake pedal the TCC does not command OFF. I expected to see engaging the brake pedal would command the TCC OFF until you released the brake pedal got back on the throttle and all other parameters were set (MPH, gear, engine load) than the TCC command would change to ON. I know these trucks use PWM TCC apply, so maybe the TCC stays commanded on but the PWM drops to 0.. unfortunately I cant find a PID for TCC PWM.

I have never manually downshifted the truck. M5 acts as a gear lock-out to keep the transmission from going into 6th, but it should not effect the shifting strategy for gears 1-5.. at least from my understanding and how the truck has operated for the past 60,000 miles I've driven it.

Yea, this is an interesting issue as I would expect drivability symptoms while in auto mode as well, if it were a valve or otherwise mechanical component that's driving the concern....Have you done anything since Tuesday, when you posted last? I've been slammed with transmission work so haven't been checking as often as I usually do...

If you haven't taken any action, I'd perhaps drop the valve body assembly and perform some vacuum testing on your valves, especially the TCC regulator valve...You'd have to drop the case and remove/take the pump apart to test the TCC control and limit valves...I've not known the Transgo kit to create issues but then again, every unit is 'different' in terms of what may arise so it could be the valve is a bit tight but for some reason, it isn't showing up when in auto mode.

But based on some of your other observations (i.e. TCC not unlocking upon hitting the brakes) could also be an intermittent electrical/electronic fault either in the TEHCM or even the PCM.

Have you had any problems at all in manual mode during the entire time you've owned the vehicle?

 

[Mlogan89]

Yea, this is an interesting issue as I would expect drivability symptoms while in auto mode as well, if it were a valve or otherwise mechanical component that's driving the concern....Have you done anything since Tuesday, when you posted last? I've been slammed with transmission work so haven't been checking as often as I usually do...

If you haven't taken any action, I'd perhaps drop the valve body assembly and perform some vacuum testing on your valves, especially the TCC regulator valve...You'd have to drop the case and remove/take the pump apart to test the TCC control and limit valves...I've not known the Transgo kit to create issues but then again, every unit is 'different' in terms of what may arise so it could be the valve is a bit tight but for some reason, it isn't showing up when in auto mode.

But based on some of your other observations (i.e. TCC not unlocking upon hitting the brakes) could also be an intermittent electrical/electronic fault either in the TEHCM or even the PCM.

Have you had any problems at all in manual mode during the entire time you've owned the vehicle?

Yea, this is an interesting issue as I would expect drivability symptoms while in auto mode as well, if it were a valve or otherwise mechanical component that's driving the concern....Have you done anything since Tuesday, when you posted last? I've been slammed with transmission work so haven't been checking as often as I usually do...

If you haven't taken any action, I'd perhaps drop the valve body assembly and perform some vacuum testing on your valves, especially the TCC regulator valve...You'd have to drop the case and remove/take the pump apart to test the TCC control and limit valves...I've not known the Transgo kit to create issues but then again, every unit is 'different' in terms of what may arise so it could be the valve is a bit tight but for some reason, it isn't showing up when in auto mode.

But based on some of your other observations (i.e. TCC not unlocking upon hitting the brakes) could also be an intermittent electrical/electronic fault either in the TEHCM or even the PCM.

Have you had any problems at all in manual mode during the entire time you've owned the vehicle?

I’ve driven the truck all this week, I still cannot duplicate the issue.. it’s frustrating as I’d rather not have a transmission issue while pulling the camper hours away from home. I will keep monitoring and will have the scan tool with me while pulling the camper next time. I’m hoping it was a fluke thing and it’s worked itself out.. however being a technician I know the chances of that happening are slim

 

[NickTransmissions]

I’ve driven the truck all this week, I still cannot duplicate the issue.. it’s frustrating as I’d rather not have a transmission issue while pulling the camper hours away from home. I will keep monitoring and will have the scan tool with me while pulling the camper next time. I’m hoping it was a fluke thing and it’s worked itself out.. however being a technician I know the chances of that happening are slim

So no problems in manual mode for as long as you've owned the vehicle, apart from this recent set of symptoms?

 

[Mlogan89]

So no problems in manual mode for as long as you've owned the vehicle, apart from this recent set of symptoms?

That is correct. Any no issues since the 2 occurrences.

 

[peewee0413]

I have a 2018 sierra and one day I started the vehicle after a 15 minute drive, put it in drive and started driving out of the parking lot.... CLUNK!! It felt like it went into gear....but I was already 10 ft into taking off. It'll do it in reverse as well. Seems to happens mostly when cold and only when going into a gear from park. Now I just wait for a few seconds. Internal leak?

 

[NickTransmissions]

That is correct. Any no issues since the 2 occurrences.

I wonder if those two occurrences were shift adapts resetting; just a guess but if it doesn't happen again and the trans behaves itself in both auto and manual mode, that's a likely explanation.

I have a 2018 sierra and one day I started the vehicle after a 15 minute drive, put it in drive and started driving out of the parking lot.... CLUNK!! It felt like it went into gear....but I was already 10 ft into taking off. It'll do it in reverse as well. Seems to happens mostly when cold and only when going into a gear from park. Now I just wait for a few seconds. Internal leak?

Have you checked u-joints, transmission rear mount, engine mounts or anything else that could come loose or wear causing driveline clunks?

 

[Mlogan89]

I wonder if those two occurrences were shift adapts resetting; just a guess but if it doesn't happen again and the trans behaves itself in both auto and manual mode, that's a likely explanation.

just got back from towing the camper again, this time no issues. I towed in M5, tow/haul on.. trying to duplicate the conditions leading to the issues I had last time I even went the same exact way home to try and eliminate any variables from the last time it happened.

one thing I did notice is active grade braking makes the trans downshifting very harsh when braking coming to a stop. I turned off active grade braking and the trans downshifting was much better, no harsh downshifts.

 

[jonesyfxr]

Anybody ever do the TRansGo Tow N Pro kit???

 

[NickTransmissions]

Anybody ever do the TRansGo Tow N Pro kit???

I've used it a couple times, it's a good kit...I'm partial to the Sonnax Zip kit but there's nothing wrong with using the Tow and Pro if that's what you'd prefer.

 

[jonesyfxr]

I've used it a couple times, it's a good kit...I'm partial to the Sonnax Zip kit but there's nothing wrong with using the Tow and Pro if that's what you'd prefer.

I am not sure which kit to use... I've looked at both

I know the zip kit requires a reamer

 

[Pcarsmit]

Hi All,

I'm brand new here but active on other GM forums where the 6L transmissions are actively being discussed so figured I'd start a similar all-encompassing transmission thread with videos, links and other information as it relates to the 6L80/90 transmissions. I'll get it going with a tear down and inspection video and go from there. Hoping this can be an easy 'one-stop shop' for exchanging information, guidance and advice as it relates to 6L80 or 6L90 transmissions.

I'll update this first post with more over time and bump the thread when new stuff gets incorporated.

Feel free to post questions, comments, etc...

2011 6L80 Teardown and Inspection

Diagnosis and Troubleshooting

View attachment 961396

Quick primer on TEHCM resistance testing:



clutch pressure control solenoid
View attachment 959347

shift solenoid
View attachment 959348


Pressure switch resistance (closed circuit): .7-1.9 ohms ( this is pressure switch #1 which sends a signal to the TCM reporting the status of the 3-5-R clutch reg valve in the valve body)
View attachment 959349

Pressure switch resistance (open circuit, pressure applied to switch) 11.5-12.9 kohms
View attachment 959350



If any of those pressure switches are not reading like the above when you do this test, then the TEHCM is bad and should be replaced!

TSBs and other Tech Info
ATSG Manual
TSB - Cooler Bypass Valve
TSB - Pump and 3-5-Reverse Drum
ATRA - Changes Over the Years
ATRA - TEHCM Diag, T&E
Installation procedures & fluid level check


Parts List for Overhaul

PART	GM Part #	Notes
Paper and rubber kit		BW high energy or Raybestos Stage One unless full race
Clutch module
Kolene steel module for 3-5-R and 4-5-6 clutch packs
Factory steel module for 1-2-3-4, 2-6 and low reverse clutch packs
Bonded steel and rubber piston kit		OEM pistons are made by National Seal
Snap ring kit for the 3-5-R and 4-5-6 clutch pack return spring assemblies	24260139	Early spring kit listed will service all years
Snap ring for the rear sprag assembly-to-center support	24230752	Will retro to 2006-E2007 units
Snap ring for the 4-5-6 hub damper cover plate
38 element sprag clutch assembly	24248957	Will retro to 2006-E2007 units
GM heavy duty parking rod assembly (2017 and older)	24280048	12.5" for 6L80E and 14.5" for 6L90E
Factory bushing kit
Thrust bearing kit (only needed if trans overheated)
Sonnax billet aluminum 1-2-3-4 apply piston
Sonnax 4-5-6 piston kit		Optional but strongly recommended
Sonnax Zip Kit		Transgo Reprogramming kit is a viable alternative
Sonnax Oversized Clutch Boost Valve kit		Necessary if one or more existing clutch boost valves fail vacuum test or prove to be worn; requires Sonnax reamer and related tooling for installation
GM internal mode switch	24246427	Updated switch will retro to years 2006-E2007
GM wiring harness and speed sensor assembly		2012+: Application dependent and must match existing rear speed sensor design - consult dealer w/VIN
GM separator plate		Year/application specific - consult dealer w/VIN
GM TEHCM		Optional for later model units and strongly recommended for pre 2014 units; year/application-specific - consult dealer w/VIN
Sonnax pressure switch rebuild kit and tool		Purchase if intending to re-use TEHCM
GM TEHCM filter screen		Purchase if intending to re-use TEHCM
New Torque Converter		New converter should come w/ converter clutch thickness => .050"; billet cover required for heavy duty or high performance
Machine Work
Pump		Machine pump cover and body. Cut pocket to achieve .002 clearance between rotor/slide and deck surface
3-5-R Drum		Reinforce welds at the base of the drum (all years)
High Performance Options
Rear planetary carrier assembly with billet drive plate		Not needed unless horsepower exceeds 700HP or if vehicle is regularly raced
Sonnax 4-5-6 billet clutch hub
Camaro ZL1 Converter		Great performance upgrade as these are significantly stronger than the stock JMBX converters that come w/the 6L80E
Raybestos Blue Plate Stage 3 friction module
Complete Raybestos Kolene steel module

Got a 2012 GMC Sierra sle LC9 motor 8L80 transmission (previously replaced by car lot) had torque converter bolts broke off the flywheel. Do to having surgery on my right hand and wrist got help dropping transmission and installing new torque converter and flywheel but not being knowledged they attempted to tighten the transmission onto the torque converter already bolted to the flywheel with the housing bolts and there was a loud pop. I am in belief that it was the pump. I have had a really rough time finding just the pump. Is there anyway to repair the existing pump or where can I buy the pump.

 

[NickTransmissions]

I am not sure which kit to use... I've looked at both

I know the zip kit requires a reamer

Sonnax kit doesnt need a reamer. But its up to you which kit, no downside to either.

Got a 2012 GMC Sierra sle LC9 motor 8L80 transmission (previously replaced by car lot) had torque converter bolts broke off the flywheel. Do to having surgery on my right hand and wrist got help dropping transmission and installing new torque converter and flywheel but not being knowledged they attempted to tighten the transmission onto the torque converter already bolted to the flywheel with the housing bolts and there was a loud pop. I am in belief that it was the pump. I have had a really rough time finding just the pump. Is there anyway to repair the existing pump or where can I buy the pump.

You have an 6L80 and unfortunately, you're correct about what happened. Call the GM dealer and give the last eight of your VIN and they should have a pump. If GM Dealers don't have them, try GM Parts Direct, Transtar or Transparts Warehouse.

 

[Pcarsmit]

Sonnax kit doesnt need a reamer. But its up to you which kit, no downside to either.



You have an 6L80 and unfortunately, you're correct about what happened. Call the GM dealer and give the last eight of your VIN and they should have a pump. If GM Dealers don't have them, try GM Parts Direct, Transtar or Transparts Warehouse.

Yes it is a 6L80 sorry I didn't mean to say 8L80. Thank you I will check the others because my local GM dealer didn't have any and wasn't very helpful on where to locate one

 

[BionicEnder]

I followed your advise and did everything my paycheck allowed. I installed the full ZipKit and put in a new torque converter. Got everything reassembled and put back in to the rig and started up with new fluid. Listened to it for a minute or 2 and it didn't sound right. Only to find out Orielys got me the wrong torque converter. The torque convert they gave me is for like 2015 to 2017 models. Is there and major changes between those years that need new converters? Also do you know if my transmission is screwed now?

 

[NickTransmissions]

I followed your advise and did everything my paycheck allowed. I installed the full ZipKit and put in a new torque converter. Got everything reassembled and put back in to the rig and started up with new fluid. Listened to it for a minute or 2 and it didn't sound right. Only to find out Orielys got me the wrong torque converter. The torque convert they gave me is for like 2015 to 2017 models. Is there and major changes between those years that need new converters? Also do you know if my transmission is screwed now?

Have you done anything with it apart from let it idle, such as put it into Drive or Reverse? If so, did it engage and vehicle move?

I would have not recommended you go with a converter from one of those auto parts chain stores as they are hit and miss when it comes to quality...Seen quite a few converter failures with them across a variety of transmission types over the years. The JMBX 6L80/90 converters never changed AFAIK. The only differences are in the stall speeds based on engine type as well as the standard 6L90 JMBX had a flanged hub whereas the 6L80 variant did not but they're interchangeable.

So unfortunately, I have no idea whether or not your transmission is damaged....Perhaps check your fluid level cold - if the fluid level is where it should be then screw in a line pressure tester into the 7/16 test port on the driver side of the transmission just behind the bell housing and then fire it up...check the reading - you should have around 55-80ish PSI in Park, Neutral, Drive.....Reverse should be somewhere between 85-125 psi...Manual modes will be higher. You can get a trans pressure gauge on Amazon for $30 or $40 or rent one from O'Reilly's for about the same.

 

[BionicEnder]

Have you done anything with it apart from let it idle, such as put it into Drive or Reverse? If so, did it engage and vehicle move?

I would have not recommended you go with a converter from one of those auto parts chain stores as they are hit and miss when it comes to quality...Seen quite a few converter failures with them across a variety of transmission types over the years. The JMBX 6L80/90 converters never changed AFAIK. The only differences are in the stall speeds based on engine type as well as the standard 6L90 JMBX had a flanged hub whereas the 6L80 variant did not but they're interchangeable.

So unfortunately, I have no idea whether or not your transmission is damaged....Perhaps check your fluid level cold - if the fluid level is where it should be then screw in a line pressure tester into the 7/16 test port on the driver side of the transmission just behind the bell housing and then fire it up...check the reading - you should have around 55-80ish PSI in Park, Neutral, Drive.....Reverse should be somewhere between 85-125 psi...Manual modes will be higher. You can get a trans pressure gauge on Amazon for $30 or $40 or rent one from O'Reilly's for about the same.

I did shift it in to every gear. It engaged in Park reverse Neutral Drive and manual just fine. And it did move. I didn't go anywhere other then just shifting gears to get fluid through the transmission. I think I'm going to get my money back and just try to rake up the money for one online. Should I buy one from monster transmission or something? I really would like to get one that's not going to blow up.