[licensetoill]

I want to install the Bose luxury amplifier in place of the premium amplifier on my 2012 Sierra SLT that does not have navigation and has a single disc changer.

I got a huge start on this by reading the GMT800 "DIY Lux Nav Install" thread on the "Diesel Place" forum. Read that first if this is new to you. I've seen a lot of threads asking about how to do this but I don't know if anyone has actually done it yet. (I'm new to the forum and platform so please inform me if I am wrong). I'm just not happy with the premium audio that came in the truck and I want to upgrade for cheap without tearing the entire truck apart.

In short: The premium amp and the lux amp have the same physical connections, however, the pins are mostly different and the amps function in different ways. (explained in the DIY Lux Nav Install).

I believe I have the electrical theory 98% complete and I will be trying this after I get the last three issues solved. I'm looking for a little help/confirmation from the group, if it can be given, regarding the three pins outlined below:

1. Lux amp pin J2-9: Where does this connection get wired to? (see page 7 of 8 in "infotainment and telematics:Audio" and page 25 of 30 in "Power Modding/Serial Data"
2. Premium amp pin J3-8: Is this used anymore or is the function taken over by the LSLAN? (See page 2 and 7 of 8 in "infotainment and telematics:Audio")
3. Premium amp pin J3-11: Is this used anymore or is the function taken over by the LSLAN? (See page 1 and 7 of 8 in "infotainment and telematics:Audio")

After all the wiring is complete, I will attempt to have my factory, non-navigation, head unit reprogrammed at a local dealer (already been chatting with them about it) or I will just buy and install the factory Denali head unit. So that's where I am with it right now.

It's a lot of info. More than I have seen in one location about this for the GMT900. Hopefully, we can work it the rest of it together / Joe

 

[kssboat]

J3-11 At first look through the documents you provided. I would say you do need the two wires you have circled on page 7. One of the wires is for mute of the amp. This will be used whenever the navigation needs to talk over the radio. Radio amp will go to mute at certain Db reduction so you can hear the instructions from navigation and other warning signals.

J3-8 The second wire is your remote turn on. The nomenclature of the wire signal ENT RMT EN SIG in my estimation means Entertainment Remote Enable Signal. This is the signal wire from head unit that tells the amp to turn on.

I would believe it would be taken over by the LSLAN, and I only say that because I cannot find it anywhere other than the splice saver.
Lux amp J2-9, which goes to nowhere, is probably a continuation connection for the LSLAN to go to a sub amplifier. Some of the signal names make me believe the Serial Lan (revered letters) also controls the crossover frequencies if they are adjustable.

Thanks for posting this info, do you think you can find it for a 2015?

 

[licensetoill]

Thanks for the input!
J3-11 I'm thinking I don't need. I can't find anywhere on the lux amp that has that "PWM AMP CONT/AMP MUTE signal. It is only shown on the Lux amp. I'm pretty sure PWM is pulse width modulation but I don't know for sure what the full function of that pin is...I'm assuming its taken care of by the LSLAN for now.

J3-8 I didn't know what the ENT RMT EN SIG was indicating. Now that you have shed a little light, I'm sure that pin is not needed. I read that the remote turn on is in fact handled by the LSLAN.

Still not sure what to do with J2-9. All the LSLAN connections for all the components show the wiring like that. In on one side, through an internal transceiver, and out the other side to unknown.

What do you think about Lux Amp pins J3-5 and J3-13 (AMP_AUD_PRM_SIG) (drawing attached - "Nav Wiring") It is related to the Navigations which I am not planning to install. I'm not sure what the function of that is.
View attachment Nav Wiring.pdf

Regarding the diagrams for 2015: Unfortunately, I would only be able to find what is already online. I found the complete GMT900 Electrical manual on one of the forums and I downloaded it. However, I will post all the radio/telemetrics/and navigation drawings for the 900 trucks, at least.

View attachment Bose Amp Pins.pdf

 

[kssboat]

I imagine the lslan to be a daisy chain. simply because of the Splice Saver module it is all one connection, like a terminal block. But here is maybe a clue for J2-9

Take a look at pg 8 of wiring questions. Module-export 900 expmdl_pwr_mode 900...... Signal GMLS XCVR (J1-A3) is connected directly to the LSLAN at the Splice saver IP1 terminal C. GMLS = General Motors Lan Serial maybe ???????

J3-5 &J3-13 are shielded so what ever they are doing they must be doing it with some frequency. I wouldn't think it to be just a 12 volt DC signal.

I think you would be safe to try connecting J2-9 straight to the GMLS J1-14 of the 900 radio pictured on 1 of 8.

 

[licensetoill]

I think GMLS is a GM low speed LAN. There is also a high speed LAN in the truck as well, fyi.

I was wondering if I could make the connection to any of the GMLS wires or if I had to go to pin K of splice saver. I have no idea where that splice saver is physically located but I do know that GMLS wire is easily available at the back of the head unit. So I think I will try what you said in the last sentence above.

I saw the J3 pin wires were shielded. I'm hoping they are irrelevant to me because I'm not using the NAV. I'm just hoping the turn signal, chimes, etc is all handled by the GMLS connection.

I think I'm ready move forward. I'll have to wait for the amp to arrive before I start any re-pinning of the connections. Don't want to be without ANY audio haha.

Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk

 

[kssboat]

let me know how you make out.
Is the Lux amp that much more powerful?

 

[licensetoill]

I will post back with the results, any problems and the final pin schedule if it works so other people can also do it.

As far as why I want to do it: my car has a 10 speaker rockford fosgate system that blows away my sierra's bose system. I know the denali and Cadillac's bose system sounds a lot better. Below is copied from the other thread I referenced in the first post. That thread also has additional information on the specific differences but this is the overview

"Now, Denali's and Escalade's have the Bose "Luxury", or [RPO code] "Y91" Bose speaker system. The great part is, that the speakers themselves and the subwoofer are IDENTICAL to the non-lux system. Both non-lux and lux Bose speakers are referred to as [rpo code] UQ7 on the build sheet and in your glovebox sticker. The ONLY lux/non-lux difference is the AMPLIFIER. And what a difference it is! The Luxury amplifier is of MUCH higher quality and also has more RMS wattage output. It deals with sound completely differently than the non-lux amp and processes it in a much cleaner fashion, for MUCH MUCH better sound quality. It also devotes much more power to the subwoofer, so with a Lux system, the sub is actually woken up and makes itself heard. Now remember, this is still the same 6.5" sub, so it wont blow out windows, but I bet it will sound much richer and deeper than you ever thought a 6.5" sub could sound! The Lux amp is also fully computerized and utilizes an onboard DSP (Digital Signal Processor, or Digital Sound Processor; ive heard a DSP be called both names) to tweak the sound and also provide different soundfield/reverberation/environment settings, such as Driver, Spacious, Passenger, and Rear. It is a smart amp and also is fully integrated with the vehicle Class II data-bus, so functions such as muting and control of the amp are all done via the BCM (body control module. basically the cars main computer) and Class II data. The non-lux amp is jokingly called the Dumb amp because it lacks any computer or control of the sound. The only thing it has is a simple passive crossover to prevent high range signals from going to the sub. So basically, that is the difference between, for example, an Escalade Bose system and a Tahoe Bose system; a 600 dollar amp versus a 170 dollar amp."

One other note: the head unit needs to be replaced or reprogrammed because of the amp difference. You can't wire in a lux amp and turn the system on. It will fry the amp.

 

[kssboat]

got it, thanks. So much good info!

 

[ryangreen1970]

In for an update on how this works out for you. Let us know!

 

[kssboat]

how is the project going?

 

[licensetoill]

The only update I have is that I have the amp now. It's quite a bit larger than I expected but will still fit in the factory location. I wanted to try to find the factory harness connector plugs so I could make a harness without actually splicing into or changing my factory wiring but I haven't been able to find the connectors yet. It would be easier to make the harness on a bench and then just plug & play between the amp and truck rather than having to repin and splice wires.

I may have found 1 of the connectors. I've been on the Mouser website and I believe it is 34690-0160 and 34729-0160. That would take care of the left connectors. I'd still need the middle and the right side.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Mol ... EIUg%3D%3D

I was also tied up with holiday stuff and just picked up an older snowmobile that's been taking up some time. I suppose I could get back to the amp wiring now haha.

Picture of the amp size and the 3 connection plugs are attached.

 

[kssboat]

http://metraonline.com/part/Aftermarket_Pioneer_wire+harness_PR2X8-0001 PR2X8-0001 looks like the center.

I am looking at Element 14 site to try to find a Molex to do the right side.

 

[kssboat]

http://www.newark.com/molex/43025-0800/plug-socket-connector-receptacle/dp/56H9400 might work for the right.

 

[licensetoill]

Thanks for the help.
I found the 8 pin!
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Del ... iuM4GII%3d

Still working on the middle 16 pin connector. Maybe this one?
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Del ... o61WOyM%3d

 

[kssboat]

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=rg3U/5nEhHdux74c28NjcQ==
Your fist link sent for left side, looks like a male plug as well. Check out the link here. Looks as if its the female socket plug for the left side.
Good find on the power input, the right side. That looks to be it.
Nothing to lose on the center either. The data sheet opens up to the wrong plug on that unit. It reads 16 pin female but when you open data sheet it shows a 64 pin unit.
It only a couple of bucks. Nice work.

 

[licensetoill]

I decided to scrap the idea of finding new connectors. I spent too much time looking for them without definitive results. Instead, I just ordered a used center console wire harness on eBay. I ordered one from an '07 -'09 escalade and the 3 plugs match. I couldn't find a Denali truck wire harness.

Just waiting for my other wire order to arrive to make my own harness so I can "plug and play" either the lux amp plugs or the premium amp plugs.

Differences in plugs shown here: The lux plugs and the premium plugs are not interchangable.

 

[Reebok59]

Hey guys, I wanted to jump in and share the upgrade project I just completed. First of all, many thanks to Joe (Licensetoill) for his work documented here digging into the Electrical Wiring Diagrams and identifying the primary issues with the Premium to Luxury Amplifier Upgrade. It was this very useful information that allowed me to hit the ground running. Yes, this upgrade can be done! I just installed a LUX Amp in my 2008 Suburban LTZ and could not have done it without the ground work you guys documented in this thread.

Now to bring closure to all the issues in the string above.
1) LUX Pin J2-1: This is the GMLS connection so the amp can communicate across the GM Low Speed LAN. If you have Rear Seat Audio, a GMLS connection is available at the 30-Pin console wiring harness connector 108. If not, have to get it at the Splice Saver.
2) LUX Pin J2-9: This pin is actually blank. It is not connected to anything. I confirmed this with a Y91 console wiring harness.
3) LUX Pin J3-5 and J3-13: AMP_AUD_PRM_SIG is the NAV Voice Prompt signal so you can hear the NAV system talking. It is a shielded pair.
4) PREM Pin J3-8: ENT_RMT_EN_SIG is the signal that turns on the Premium Amp. Not needed for LUX Amp.
5) PREM Pin J3-11: AMP MUTE is the signal that mutes the rear speakers when the Rear Seat Audio (RSA) is turned on. Not needed for LUX Amp.

I have posted updated Pin-out Tables for the Amp connections and the Main 30-Pin Console Wiring Harness connection that you will find very useful for your upgrade projects. You need to check it out. I highly recommend obtaining and using a Y91 Console Wiring Harness to do this upgrade. It is as close to a plug-n-play solution you are going to get with the exception of adding NAV Voice Prompt shielded pair, re-routing rear speaker wires and reprogramming the Radio. I hope you will find the information I posted very useful in completing your upgrades.

http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/ ... ade.92858/

View attachment PREM and LUX Amp Connections.pdf

View attachment Console Wiring Harness Connection 108.pdf

Finally rocking with a kicking Sub, sooo much better than that wimpy PREM Amp!
Scott

 

[licensetoill]

Scott,
That is awesome that you were able to finish this! I still have it on my list to do but I have not had the time yet.

So what did you do with the stock head unit? Did it need to be reprogrammed at the dealer?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[Reebok59]

Joe,
Yes, I took it to the Dealer and the Tech used the ODB2 connector to plug in some kind of wireless module that he linked to his computer in the shop where he reprogramed my Nav Radio to a Y91 configuration by resetting about four (4) different parameters.
Scott

 

[Reebok59]

Joe,
I had talked to the Tech before I took it to the Dealer and he knew what I was trying to do. He agreed that it should work before I completed the rewiring. He told me to just hook it all up and most likely it would just not work if I turned it on. He was right nothing worked. Radio came on but no sound whatsoever. After he reprogramed the Radio he told me he only got sound out the front speakers and then one side went out and then the other side went out. He lost all communication with the Amp on the Tech2 device and said he thought the Amp just failed. That it acted like a typical Amp failure. At the time, I thought the whole project was a failure. But I double checked everything and it all was wired correctly. I even hooked up a test speaker to the Low Level Inputs from the Radio and got sound. Even the NAV Voice was working on the new NAV Voice Prompt connections. So then I was convinced the Amp failed as well. So I found another one on eBay and when I hooked it up, everything worked perfectly. Still not sure if the first Amp just happened to fail or if I fried it when I hooked it up to Radio before I reprogramed it. The Tech doesn't think I fried it, he thinks it just failed. Either way, I would recommend reprograming the Radio first before hooking up LUX Amp.

Oh yeah, make sure you check out my post at the "TahoeYukon" Forum using the link in my post above.
Scott