[JasonP1987]

What should I torque the drain plug to? Also, should I pre fill the new oil filter before putting it on or just rub some new oil around the gasket & screw it on??

It can't hurt to fill the filter. Just be sure to fill from the outer small holes and not the center. The idea being that even though the new oil is clean, you could potentially introduce contaminants and therefore, filling from the outside small holes sends your fresh oil through the filter media.

When I worked at dealers, I was taught that the filter mounting plate already has oil on it. Just open the new filter and slam it directly on there, then shoot the area with brake clean and call it good.

Never had our saw an issue but I don't like doing that. The proper way is to wipe the mounting plate clean, then add clean oil to the new O-ring. I don't pre-fill. There's a check valve or something which won't allow oil into the filter until the engine has good oil pressure. This prevents starving the crank.

My dad had a Corolla that went 125k before developing a rod knock. Allegedly, only the OEM filter had an internal valve to prevent drain back after shutting the engine down, and the pump sent oil into the filter first before the crank. According to the dealer anyway

I use OEM filters anyway

 

[JasonP1987]

If I could have said that better I would have...but I couldn't, so I quoted the author.

Careful, you're going to inflate my ego

 

[JasonP1987]

Oil is cheap. Engine rebuilds ain't. I can't be screwing around with oil analysis. That's the only true way to know.

Everybody is claiming all of this high mileage intervals and extended life oil and maintenence free cars, and all of this other horse manure they're spouting.

Nobody ever said F all about extended life oil filters, did they?

If modern oils perform better, then that means that they clean the engine better. And that means that modern oil is carrying more junk in it. Which means the filter is working harder, thereby collecting more trash.

Logic dictates that, if anything, you should change these super oils more frequently. Or at least, change your filter more often.

Personally, I don't over think it. 3k miles, it gets changed. And it looks plenty dirty every time.

I've seen inside numerous engines where the vehicle manufacturer and the oil jug both say you can go for this crazy extended interval, and the lie detector determined that both the vehicle manufacturer and the oil company are excessively full of S.

Dealership service history states this vehicle has come to this shop every X miles and gotten the recommended service religiously. The owner of the vehicle has carefully followed OEM and oil brand recommendations. The engineers have sworn that you can go this many miles, no problem.

Well if they're so smart, then why is this top end completely caked in sludge? Why is that crank turning blue gold and purple with heat caused by plugged oil passages caused by sludge created by extended intervals?

I'm not convinced by the slick marketing, but I am convinced by what I've seen inside plenty of engines.



Suit yourself. Carefully follow the owner's manual. Listen to Pennzoil or Mobil or pick your poison telling you that it's safe to go 5, 6, 8, 10k miles or whatever. I'm perfectly happy to charge you money to fix it.

>>The reader will note that my normal monotone has changed to one of bitterness and sarcasm. It angers me to see my customers getting screwed by following poor advice given by the OEM in order to boost sales.