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How to perform an Oil Change on a Chevrolet Silverado
[tyn]Things You'll Need:
  • Cold beverage[/*]
  • Car jack[/*]
  • Jack stands or ramps[/*]
  • Oil drip pan[/*]
  • Socket wrench[/*]
  • Oil filter wrench[/*]
  • Cleaning cloths[/*]
  • Filter[/*]
  • Oil[/*]
[/tyn]
Changing the oil on a Chevy Silverado is no different that changing the oil on most Chevy models. Use a 6-point socket wrench for the oil drain plug. The original engine oil drain plug wrench size should be a metric size. Most use a 15mm and on some models, a 13mm. Use a typical banded oil filter wrench for the filter.

The recommended oil viscosity is 5W-30 or 10W-30. As shown in the chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your chevy truck. However, you can use SAE 10W-30 if it's going to be 0°F (-18°C) or above. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils, such as SAE 20W-50.

When to Change Engine Oil
Your vehicle has a computer that lets you know when to change your engine oil. This is not based on mileage, but on engine revolutions and engine operating temperature. When the computer has calculated that the oil needs changing, the Oil Life Monitor will indicate that a change is necessary. The mileage between oil changes will vary depending on how you drive your vehicle -- usually between 3,000 miles (5 000 km) and 7,500 miles (12 500 km) since your last oil change. Under severe conditions, the indicator may come on before 3,000 miles (5 000 km). Never drive your vehicle more than 7,500 miles (12 500 km) or 12 months (whichever occurs first) without an oil change. The system won't detect dust in the oil. So, if you drive in a dusty area, be sure to change your oil every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or sooner. Remember to reset the CHANGE ENGINE OIL message whenever the oil is changed.

Steps
  • Crack open your favorite cold beverage.[/*]
  • Lift your Silverado using at least a 2-ton jack and then place the truck on jack stands making sure the stands are located on a solid portion of the trucks frame. If you don't have jack stands, drive the truck onto a set of sturdy wheel ramps.[/*]
  • Pop the hood and remove the dipstick and oil filler cap. In a Silverado, the dipstick is to the left of the engine and has a yellow handle. The oil filler cap is to the right diagonal from the dipstick.[/*]
  • Gather an oil drip pan, socket wrench, oil filter wrench, cleaning cloths and a new oil filter. Slide yourself under your Silverado.[/*]
  • Locate the oil filter and oil drain plug underneath the truck. The oil drain plug is near the bottom of the engine block, and on the Silverado, the filter is to the left of the drain plug.[/*]
  • Remove the oil drain plug using the socket wrench. Pull the plug out quickly and let the oil drain for 10 to 15 minutes. Check the gasket and threads for damage. Replace if damaged.
    [/*]
  • Take off the oil filter using a banded oil filter wrench. Dump the old oil into the oil drip pan and put on the new oil filter. Tighten the oil filter by hand, and then replace the oil drain plug using the wrench.
    [/*]
  • Under the hood, add new oil. Turn on the engine and check the oil pressure gauge to make sure it rises. If it doesn't, turn the car off quickly and add more oil.[/*]
  • Lower your Chevy Silverado and turn off the engine. Take an oil reading on the dipstick. If the oil level isn't at full, add a bit more oil.[/*]
  • Crack open another cold beverage and celebrate a job well done. :D [/*]

If you found this How-to writeup was beneficial to you, please consider documenting another procedure that you may be able to help others with.
 

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press either the the break or thegas pedal 3 times while the the truck is off but turned to accesories youll see the battery light in the message center and then the oil light will flash a few times then reset
 

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I would like to start changing my own oil but I don't know how much oil to put in an 04 5.3
 

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6 quarts. BTW, that info is available in the owners manual or the online manual here. A little word of advice. Pay close attention to the installation instructions on your oil filter. Nothing worse than having a filter leak or fall off later. I hope this helps. Don't forget to clean the magnet on the end of your drain plug.

Gordon
 

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If you have the factory skid plate option you will quickly discover that it makes a perfect oil trap and the you will either need to clean it out ( a major PITA) or face leaving drops of used oil where you park after every oil change. The solution is easy. Take one of your empty favorite beverage cans (soup cans are better but harder to cut) and cut both ends off, split it and lay it out flat. Now cut a rectangular piece out about four inches wide and the length of the can. On one end bend the entire end into a hook (greater than 90* bend) that will hang over the edge of the skid plate and make the other end into a V. If you are worried that the "spout" will get knocked out of place just use a pair of vice grips off to one side to clamp the end to the skid plate. Put in place before you remove the drain plug and when the "gusher" of oil settles down all of the drips will travel down the "spout" you made and into the drain pan instead of your skid plate.
 

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One additional item. Many trucks have a magnet on the end of the oil drain plug. You can use it as a "poor mans" indicator of engine health (a lot of metal chips on here is bad). After your inspection, carefully clean it off. ;)
 

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Dont forget to make sure oil filter gasket isnt left behind on engine that wouldnt be good,also add some oil in new filter so you dont start engine dry your bearings will love you for it
 

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Did'nt really take anytime at all. Next time I know not to put the drain pan directly under. I forgot about gravity pressure, Had a small mess to clean up but it was worth the money I saved.
 

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2001GMC said:
If you have the factory skid plate option you will quickly discover that it makes a perfect oil trap and the you will either need to clean it out ( a major PITA) or face leaving drops of used oil where you park after every oil change. The solution is easy. Take one of your empty favorite beverage cans (soup cans are better but harder to cut) and cut both ends off, split it and lay it out flat. Now cut a rectangular piece out about four inches wide and the length of the can. On one end bend the entire end into a hook (greater than 90* bend) that will hang over the edge of the skid plate and make the other end into a V. If you are worried that the "spout" will get knocked out of place just use a pair of vice grips off to one side to clamp the end to the skid plate. Put in place before you remove the drain plug and when the "gusher" of oil settles down all of the drips will travel down the "spout" you made and into the drain pan instead of your skid plate.
The first time I changed the oil on my "04 5.3 Z71 I removed the skid plate (Aluminum?) and cut out a half round hole on it under the oil drain to eliminate this pathetic engineering oversight. But, coming from a company that forgot how to make a steering shaft or A/C controls last more than 10k, it really didn't sur :lol: prise me.
 

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Couple more notes:
1. Sierra procedure is the same as the Silverado mentioned here.
2. I found it helpful to punch a small hole in the bottom of the filter, so it can drain. Otherwise a lot of oil comes out when you unscrew it.
3. When reinstalling, make sure to put a little oil on the filter gasket before you screw the filter on. It forms a better seal and prevents leaks, and prevents the gasket from breaking away from the filter.
4. Don't over tighten the filter. Firmly tighten by hand is all is needed. Most filter manufacturers say about 3/4 of a turn after the gasket makes contact with the engine.
5. Don't forget to lube the zirc fitting while you are down there.

Couple other things, sort of related:
1. Jack stands are not required, but do make it easier. I changed mine without them. I slid under the truck from just behind the driver side front wheel.
2. I found a great oil drain pan at Wal-Mart (along with inexpensive oil). The pan is about 2 feet across, which is good if you have trouble judging the distance the oil will shoot out. It's also good, because you can drain the filter and oil pan at the same time.
 

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I did not see this mentioned but if it was, sorry to repeat it.

Lots of people like to pre-fill the new oil filter with fresh oil before installing it to aide in faster oil pressure. Just be careful not to introduce any dirt etc into the new oil or filter. Pour oil into new filter, wait a minute and keep topping off till its just below the top.
 

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I've always lubed the filter gasket with a small amount of fresh grease instead of oil. Never had a leaking problem or had an issue getting the filter off again.
 

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Grease will work too. Just need to keep the rubber gasket lubed, so it forms a good seal, and so it slides easily on the motor as the filter tightens.
 

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lzn197 said:
6 quarts. BTW, that info is available in the owners manual or the online manual here. A little word of advice. Pay close attention to the installation instructions on your oil filter. Nothing worse than having a filter leak or fall off later. I hope this helps. Don't forget to clean the magnet on the end of your drain plug.

Gordon
I am new to this site. Where can I find the online manuals or even do you know where I could download an owners manual for my 1999 Chevy 1500?

Thank you
Shaun
 

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Also consider full synthetic. I have run my 2000 Silverado over 200k miles on Castrol Syntec 5W-30, and don't regret a minute of it! Engine is still strong, no leaks, and performing great. I also use a 6,000 mile change interval with synthetic. Yeah, the oil costs more, but the lubrication properties are good enough that you can run it twice as long. ...just my 2-cents!
 

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We need to find an updated diagram of the oil pan. Mine does not drain straight out the back, it goes towards the passenger side for some reason. I'm taking a break right now because it's too freaking hot under there to be working on it. Even with my M-Pac gloves, its's too hot (yes, I have 'office' hands).

FINALLY putting in my AMSOIL!!!!
 
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