[Joe.Gomes]

I was looking for a way to disable the DRL and Autolights only for when going hunting so when i enter the bush or field my lights are not lighting up the whole woods. I coulnd't really find any real "how to" so i decided to write one up.

Skill - Anyone with a pulse
Time - 10 -30 mins
Tools - 7mm Socket Deep or with Extension and Rachet
- Trim Pry Tool/Flat Screw Driver
- (2) 5W 1.8K resistors ( Radioshack or The Source in Canada Has Multi Pack For $6.99 CDN)
- 5/8" x 3" Dual Wall Shrink Tube or Electrical Tape
- Optional Side Cutters

Auto - Lights Disable
First step is to remove the drivers side pillar cover, remove the cap and behind it is a 7mm bolt, after removing that there is one clip 2/3 of the way down, be careful not to brake it, mine kinda broke a bit but it still sits well

Then lift the front cover of the dash off, its held in place by 5 body clips really easy to come out with a flat pry tool or trim removal tools

Then you twist the sensor counter clockwise to unlock it, unclip the sensor and with the plug facing you and the tab to the top, insert the two 5w 1.8K resistors vertically

you can cut the tabs off to make it easier to install the shrink tube or you can leave them upto you. You can also use electrical tape if you ever want to go back to stock, i dont plan on it so i choose to have mine well secured with the shrink tube, worst case you depin the wires and get a new connector

Reinstall dash front cover
Reinstall pillar cover

Day Time Running Lights Disable
Remove fuse 32 and 34

Test operation of lights - MAKE SURE YOU APPLY PARKING BRAKE, CHOCK ATLEAST A WHEEL OR HAVE SOMEONE HELP

 

[cfesting]

Question: Wouldn't you want to *not* apply parking brake to test?

 

[ferraiolo1]

You would *want* to apply the parking brake. Since you have to put the truck in drive to see if the drls turn on during the day. Or you could just park in front of a window.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[nealinator]

Or you could alternatively pull the DRL fuses. Much more simple, reversible and quicker. Also keeps the light sensor in tact for dash light dimming.

 

[Zrock]

you missed the point where he was disabling DRL and auto headlights

 

[nealinator]

Oh. Well isn't that just a matter of rotating the headlight switch to not be on "Auto" for the headlights?

 

[ferraiolo1]

Since his is a Canadian truck, i believe it functions differently. I believe DRLs are required up there.

 

[Zrock]

if its the same as my truck their is no off for the headlights, auto or on... and yes DRL are required in Canada after a certain year.
For the DRL i would have just run a bypass switch and just shut them off when hunting

 

[SparkyJJO]

Doing that to the sensor screws with the auto climate control though does it not? Apparently that sensor does more than just affect the headlights, from what I understand.

 

[ricka182]

Oh. Well isn't that just a matter of rotating the headlight switch to not be on "Auto" for the headlights?

I don't have that option. My switch is spring loaded, so it always reverts back to Auto.

I did a similar mod by sticking a resistor in my ambient light sensor, but as you pointed out, that kills of dash lighting in low light, and also perimeter lighting. So I'll be removing that resistor and getting my ambient light sensor working again, then I have a different mod I read here, that shows how to simply remove the spring from the switch so I can turn it to off and have full manual control of my headlights.

I pulled my DRL fuse a long time ago, so no worries there.

 

[esox07]

YES, DRL's are required in Canada and cannot be turned off with the switch.

Using the switch to turn off the lights by rotating the knob with turn them off but only for that drive cycle. The next time you get in the truck and start it up, they will come back on. You would need to turn it off each time you drive.

 

[nealinator]

Yes, fully understand the DRL's cannot be controlled by the switch on the dash. Fuses can deal with that. But now there is a legality issue it sounds like. How is the OP getting around the illegal running of no DRL's if required in Canada? Is there not some inspections that occur yearly that would now fail? And for the headlights...it sounds like their switches are different esox07 and they do not have the same ability as our US trucks to turn them off (even if for only each drive cycle).

 

[ricka182]

I believe the Canadian trucks don't have the option to flip them off like we do in the US, even per drive cycle.

Thinking about this, and discussing with a co-worker... Why not just add a switched circuit to interrupt the power to the DRLs? That way you don't mess with any sensors and lose other functions, and you can have them by law as required, but also be able to kill them on the hunting grounds...in more ways than one..lol

 

[esox07]

Yep, there would be a legality issue if they are disabling DRL's in Canada. I suppose they could re-enable them for an inspection, but that won't help them if they get pulled over on the road.

And, yes, I guess they likely do have a different light control knob that won't allow turning off the head lights.

This is on any vehicle manufactured for sale in Canada. I know several on this list have bought trucks that were originally sold in Canada and then brought or sold second hand in the US and have the inability to disable the DRL's. It is something someone should consider if contemplating the purchase of truck originally sold in Canada.

 

[Joe.Gomes]

The Motor Vehicle Safety Act dictates all vehicles sold or imported into Canada after Dec. 1, 1989, must have automatic daytime running lights (DRLs). However, Ontario's Highway Traffic Act doesn't require the use of DRLs. Full lights must be on in darkness or poor visibility under S. 62 HTA.

We only get one safety inspection in Canada on personal vehicles when the vehicle is first purchased or has changed ownership. commercial vehicles get them annually. If i ever did need to return to stock i would remove the resistors and plug the sensor in and then replace the fuses for the DRLs and its back to 100% factory.

I could have added a switch into the chassis harness but then i would be physically altering the harness which is not a cheap or easy fix as would be replacing the plastic connector I cut the clip and tab off of.

I wrote this how to more so so clarify how to do it because alot of them dont have pictures or consistent information

 

[esox07]

Sounds like you got have it all figured out and well handled. I am sure others will be able to use your information.

 

[HorizontalHunter]

I was looking for a way to disable the DRL and Autolights only for when going hunting so when i enter the bush or field my lights are not lighting up the whole woods. I coulnd't really find any real "how to" so i decided to write one up.

Skill - Anyone with a pulse
Time - 10 -30 mins
Tools - 7mm Socket Deep or with Extension and Rachet
- Trim Pry Tool/Flat Screw Driver
- (2) 5W 1.8K resistors ( Radioshack or The Source in Canada Has Multi Pack For $6.99 CDN)
- 5/8" x 3" Dual Wall Shrink Tube or Electrical Tape
- Optional Side Cutters

Auto - Lights Disable
First step is to remove the drivers side pillar cover, remove the cap and behind it is a 7mm bolt, after removing that there is one clip 2/3 of the way down, be careful not to brake it, mine kinda broke a bit but it still sits well
View attachment 4

Then lift the front cover of the dash off, its held in place by 5 body clips really easy to come out with a flat pry tool or trim removal tools

Then you twist the sensor counter clockwise to unlock it, unclip the sensor and with the plug facing you and the tab to the top, insert the two 5w 1.8K resistors vertically

View attachment 1

you can cut the tabs off to make it easier to install the shrink tube or you can leave them upto you. You can also use electrical tape if you ever want to go back to stock, i dont plan on it so i choose to have mine well secured with the shrink tube, worst case you depin the wires and get a new connector
View attachment 2
View attachment 3

Reinstall dash front cover
Reinstall pillar cover

Day Time Running Lights Disable
Remove fuse 32 and 34

Test operation of lights - MAKE SURE YOU APPLY PARKING BRAKE, CHOCK ATLEAST A WHEEL OR HAVE SOMEONE HELP

FWIW:

The resistors pictured in the mod are not 1.8K ohm 5w resistors. They are 47ohm 1/2 watt resistors.

Bob

 

[Jonmad74]

Someone else wrote this up, and it works perfectly. No tearing apart the upper dash, or buying resistors. You can use a switch, as he did, or permanently disable by shorting these two wires.

- Pull off the knee panel below the steering wheel (Two bolts at the bottom, yank hard at the top left corner of the panel and it pops off. It helps to remove the end panel where fuses and relays live). - Be careful you keep an eye out for any parts that fly off the panel as you yank it off. For me, one of the brass panel clips sprung off and flew out of the truck. Those things can fly pretty far! There are two clips - one on each end along the top of the panel. - Look directly beneath the steering wheel. You'll see five harnesses and their associated wire bundles coming off the TBC (Truck Body Computer). This consists of two small connectors on the ends (left and right) and three larger connectors between. All the connectors are in a single line. - Above the connectors, on the body of the TBC, you'll see the connector designations. From left to right, you'll see "J2", "J3", and "J4". They're small and hard to see, so make sure you have a good light. You're interested in J3 and J4, the middle one and the one to its immediate right, respectively. - Look for the white wire from pin A4 of J3 and the black wire from pin B7 of J4. The pin numberings are stamped on the back of the connectors. They gave you plenty of slack so it will be easy to separate the wires to look for these two. These two wires run up behind the dash to the Ambient Light sensor on top. These are the two wires you want to 'short'. - Slice open the insulation on both wires with a regular box knife. Make the slice long enough to wrap another wire around the bare wire. I hate cutting wires; I did it this way to improve reliability. I wrapped the joints in electrical tape. - I used 24 Gauge wire I had lying around to wrap around the naked wire I just sliced. Do this to both black and white wires. - Other ends of the 24Ga wires go to a switch. - I mounted the switch to a hole that was already at the bottom of the dash. The switch sticks out the bottom. The switch is out of sight but easy to reach. The above procedure is pretty simple and fairly foolproof, but if you're anal, you can do the following four tests before putting everything back together. Do them in the order listed. All tests are done with ignition "on". Engine does not have to be running: 1 - Cover the Ambient Light Sensor that's in the middle top of the dash so that it's completely in the dark, simulating night conditions. NRA's "America's 1st Freedom" magazine is good for this. Flip the new switch so that it's 'open'. This is the factory configuration. Make sure the Factory Headlight Control is "off". With the sensor covered (in the dark), the lights should come on. Note that there is a short delay after you toggle the switch or cover/uncover the sensor before the setting takes effect. 2 - With the Sensor still in the dark, flip the switch closed. This is the 'defeat' position. This 'shorts' J3-A4 and J4-B7 together fooling the computer into thinking that it's daylight outside. After a short delay, the headlights, parking lights, and tail lights should extinguish. Flip the switch back open and make sure the headlights, parking lights, and tail lights turn on after a short delay. 3 - Make sure the factory configuration still works: Make sure the Sensor is in the dark and the new switch is in the 'factory'/'open' position (the lights should be on). Expose the Ambient Light Sensor to bright light (e.g. sun). After a short delay, the lights should shut off. Cover the Sensor again and the lights should come on after a short delay. This verifies that the factory sensor function still operates correctly. 4a - Testing Factory Light Control, Defeat Config: With the sensor still in the dark, flip the switch to the 'defeat'/'closed' position. Wait for the lights to turn off. Move the factory headlight control to the "parking light" position. Verify that only the tail and parking lights turn on. Move the factory headlight control to the 'headlight' position. Verify that the headlights also turn on. 4b - Testing Factory Light Control, Factory Config, Daytime: Uncover the sensor so that it's exposed to bright light. Move the new switch to 'open'/'factory'. Wait for the lights to turn off. Verify that you can turn the lights on and off via the factory light control. 4c - Testing Factory Light Control, Factory Config, Nighttime: Cover the sensor so it's completely dark. Make sure new switch is in 'open'/'factory' position. Wait for lights to come on. Verify that you cannot turn off the lights with the factory light controls. If all tests above pass, you're good to go. Put everything back together and enjoy. .....I took pictures of the entire operation, but this site won't let me upload them - too big. I'm too lazy to resize them. Oh well.

 

[Jonmad74]

And disabling the driver is simple by pulling the fuse

 

[16elevationRecon]

What years does this apply to looking for a work around the Canadian version drls. Bought my 16 in its hometown where it was made, so what I've learned is that the bcm is reprogrammed when it goes to Canadian dealers for a literal 1 to a 0 in binary code which is what the whole problem is. Dealer won't touch your bcm bc when you say anything about drls lights they follow a tsp from gm saying nothing further needs be done. So my question does this wire shorting work against this setup?