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How to do a 4L60E Transmission Service

130K views 54 replies 30 participants last post by  CheezyRiderAZ  
#1 Ā·
Changing transmission fluid and what you need.
1. Jack and two jack stands. RAMPS AREN'T RECOMMENDED
2. Trans filter and pan gasket (Make sure you get the right one. 4L60E square pan 16 bolts. Also there is two different filters shallow and deep. The shallow filter fits the pan that is flat on the bottom. The deep pan has a section of the pan that is a different height.)Try getting them at a transmission shop better quality.
3. Transmission fluid 6qt to be on the safe side. Type of fluid is stamped into the dip stick. I run Valvoline Max Life synthetic in all my cars and trucks and it will mix with no problem.
4. Funnel small enough to fit into dipstick.
5. Basic hand tools 13mm and 10 mm socket and ratchet with extensions.
6. Most will not need this but some will have to remove linkage bracket that require T40 or T45 torques bit.
7. Small pry bar
8. Drain pan big enough to catch 5 qts of fluid.
9. scraper or razor blade
10. Rags

Get truck safely in the air on jack stands. Always jack truck up in NEUTRAL. Block the rear tires because you are going to remove the linkage bracket.

Get ready to make a mess. Start removing the drain plug if you are lucky enough to have. It should be on the bottom of the pan a 15mm headed plug.

Then start removing the front pan bolts. After that remove the side pan bolts. What you are trying to do is pour the fluid out the front of the pan.

If there is a bracket on the drivers side , towards the rear of the pan, remove it. Some brackets have two bolts from the bottom, others have two bolts from the top. The bolts from the top usually take a T40 torques bit.
Remove all bolt except the last one.
If no fluid is leaking you are going to pry the front of the pan loose. With the fluid draining out slowly remove the last bolt.

Now the pan is off next thing is to remove the filter. Wiggle the filter strait down. Watch out and don't unplug any solenoids.

Make sure you have the right filter. You need to make sure the height is right. Install new filter by pushing strait in.

Clean the pan. There will be a little metal in pan. There should be no more than 1/8 inch of stuff on the magnet. If there is you will want to keep an eye on your transmission fluid, any change of color is a sign of heat and need to get it fixed.

After cleaning pan up. Install the pan with new gasket. If you can try to buy the fiber gasket sold at most transmission shops. The rubber ones are the next best thing. Torque the pan bolt to 10 ft lbs or snug with normal ratchet. To tight and it will leak for sure.

Lower truck and fill with fluid. Add 4 qts then start and shift into every gear. Check fluid while truck is in park.

Make sure you have no leak and you all all done.

My recommendation: For added life of your transmission. :roll:

1. Have a good transmission cooler even if you don't tow. Best is made by true cool i use the #4590 the most.
2. Use Max Life full synthetic transmission fluid with the Lube Gard Platinum additive. Lubegard is OEM approved. When used with full synthetic it can go into any trans with no problems.
3. Service your trans. every year or 24000 mi. Yes that is early but service is cheap compared to a $3000 to $5ooo transmission rebuild.

4. If you tow, have a transmission temp gauge installed. It will tell you how hard you are pushing. Also when some thing is not right. You have a problem if it gets up to be 250F.

Any questions feel free to ask. Also feed back is good to help improve.
 
#2 Ā·
Okay a few questions...

I'm told that you're not supposed to mix regular transmission fluid and full synthetic. Any truth to that?

Also, what were saying about having two buckets and all that in another post?
 
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#3 Ā·
Ive never heard or seen, any info at any class, that you cant mix these fluids. We do it every day at work and have no problems.

The bucket with 2 hoses is for flushing the whole system (almost) if you get behind on servicing. You pull one transmission cooler line off and attach a hose to each side. Start truck and keep putting new fluid in the trans. It will pump out one quart a minute so you need to keep adding close to that. What this does is changes and cleans the whole system. Don't do this if you are having problems because you will be wasting your money and time. You will use ten to fifteen quarts.
 
#7 Ā·
I've always left it in park, made sure the area where my hydraulic jack sits is smooth and then jack up the vehicle. The jack will roll slightly but in my opinion that is safer because the vehicle will remain stationary in it's position in the driveway for safety.
 
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#8 Ā·
This is the stuff you recommend, right? It doesn't say anything about it being full synthetic.
You are very right it doesn't say it if full synthetic but it is. The valoline rep said they don't put that on the bottle because they don't want people think that it will not mix with what they have. Also don't want people think it will cause a leak. Witch it will not do. Its good oil i recommend it.
 
#9 Ā·
I wanted to get a tranny fluid change and they told me that they have been saying not to change the filter anymore duecto all the additives in the oil. The service tech from the dealer told me that. so is that true? It has 131,000 miles on it and i don't know if the previous guy had it ever changed
 
#10 Ā·
Its your choice. Save a little on serving and spend alot on a rebuild the choice is yours.
TWO IMPORTANT THINGS TO MAKE TRANSMISSION LAST LONGER
1. REDUCE HEAT install aux cooler
2. SERVICE THE TRANSMISSION
if you don't you will pay someone like me to rebuild it sooner than later.
 
#11 Ā·
If you want the trans to last, dump the low bidder oem atf as soon as possible and in install a high end synthetic ATF. All ATF's by any of the big name oil companies are basically the same, nothing special about them but the advertising hype IMO. The make everything to a price point, not they best they can.

Nor would I add anything to the ATF. Straight to the point, If you must use an additive then you are not using the right ATF.

I also have to disagree with the OP as to where to buy your filters. From my experience in the oil business for better than 30 yrs, the only thing shop's care about it how much something cost them, not weather its the best quality or not. I know many shops that buy the cheapest filters they can buy, the cheapest atf they can buy and charge the most they can.
 
#15 Ā·
mbreener said:
Nvm.. I answered my own question. Pulled it apart and there is no way to drain the torque converter after removing the trans pan. Looks like I'm just doing a filter and fill. lol
You have to purge the fluid to change it completely. That is, pump out the old while adding new fluid thru the filler tube. That is the only way to completely change the fluid. Its relatively easy to do as I have done it many times for customers over the years but I now send them to the pro's as they can do it faster.
 
#16 Ā·
While I have done them in the past, I've read too many negative things about transmission flushes, and my service manual says nothing about flushes either. I recently dropped my pan to change filter and replenish fluid to normal levels. If it's good enough for GM then it's good enough for me!
 
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#17 Ā·
I am not talking about a flush using a machine or chemicals, I would never let anyone flush my transmission and I never recommend anyone do that. Flushes using machines can be dangerous because the shops rely on the machine to be the expert and often have amateurs operate it who would might not even know the color of ATF.

What I was talking about is just replacing the existing fluid with all new fluid as if you are changing to a synthetic ATF and don't want old fluid mixed with the new synthetic ATF. The fluid is pumped out with the engine running letting the trans pump do the work. You just open the trans cooler lines and let the old fluid flow out while replenishing with new. Nothing dangerous about it and a safe and effective way to replace all the fluid. You trans is circulating the ATF all the while its in operation anyway so there it no way to harm anything.

Don't condemn it, its a proven and safe method of replacing ATF. Most all professional trans experts will tell you the only safe method.
 
#18 Ā·
how often should you replace your trans oil i just turned 50 Thousand miles on my truck and am just wondering what is reccomened?
 
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#19 Ā·
The owners manual says to change ATF and filter every 50,000 for service service and 100,000 miles for normal service. Look in the back of the manual under Maintenance.

Most vehicles are operated under service service although the owners might disagree. If the majority of your driving is short trips around town, idling, stop and go, towing, hauling heavy loads, hot-rodding, have engine modifications, over-size tires etc then you fall under severe service.

Note-Dropping the pan and replacing the filter and the contents of the pan only will leave about 1/2 to 2/3 of the old ATF in the system.
 
#20 Ā·
alright i might be doing a tranny fluid and filter change i the near future...thanks for the info
 
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#21 Ā·
one question is it very hard to mess this up? like what do you clean the pan with what happens if you get dirt on the filters or other related questions?
 
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#22 Ā·
Z15 said:
I am not talking about a flush using a machine or chemicals, I would never let anyone flush my transmission and I never recommend anyone do that. Flushes using machines can be dangerous because the shops rely on the machine to be the expert and often have amateurs operate it who would might not even know the color of ATF.

What I was talking about is just replacing the existing fluid with all new fluid as if you are changing to a synthetic ATF and don't want old fluid mixed with the new synthetic ATF. The fluid is pumped out with the engine running letting the trans pump do the work. You just open the trans cooler lines and let the old fluid flow out while replenishing with new. Nothing dangerous about it and a safe and effective way to replace all the fluid. You trans is circulating the ATF all the while its in operation anyway so there it no way to harm anything.

Don't condemn it, its a proven and safe method of replacing ATF. Most all professional trans experts will tell you the only safe method.
So what's the quick "How To" on this? Where do you bust the cooler line (at the front?) and is this a 2-man job?
 
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#23 Ā·
transman thanks for the info, I am conteplating trying the trans pan/fiter myself or not, the 02 z-71 deep pan it looks like the pan does not come down very easy and some web-post I have read said the pan drop is a bear and having to drop y-pipe and linkages cat heat shields etc..
 
#24 Ā·
Z15 said:
I am not talking about a flush using a machine or chemicals, I would never let anyone flush my transmission and I never recommend anyone do that. Flushes using machines can be dangerous because the shops rely on the machine to be the expert and often have amateurs operate it who would might not even know the color of ATF.

What I was talking about is just replacing the existing fluid with all new fluid as if you are changing to a synthetic ATF and don't want old fluid mixed with the new synthetic ATF. The fluid is pumped out with the engine running letting the trans pump do the work. You just open the trans cooler lines and let the old fluid flow out while replenishing with new. Nothing dangerous about it and a safe and effective way to replace all the fluid. You trans is circulating the ATF all the while its in operation anyway so there it no way to harm anything.

Don't condemn it, its a proven and safe method of replacing ATF. Most all professional trans experts will tell you the only safe method.
I recently had this method done at a local, trusted shop. They ran the truck with a cooler line unplugged, replaced the fluid, filter and cleaned out the pan. I had them use AMSOIL fluid, and a WIX filter. Not only did I have zero issues after this procedure, but the transmission performs much better than before.
 
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#25 Ā·
Ok question I have read mixed info, does the exh pipe have to be dropped for the trans pan removal on a 02 Silverado ext cab short bed z-71 4x4 w/deep pan, has rideg in back of pan. I read your posting and all the other threads it sounds like a bear.Some websites are saying to just pry over the shift linkage as opposed to removing the entire shift linkage any thoughts on that. Some are saying the pan can be manipulated around exh pipe. please provide the procedure for this task on that truck if possible, thanks, Jim
 
#26 Ā·
I just did it on that exact truck, and I did it without moving the exhaust and just bending the linkage out of the way. It takes about an hour and a half if you are very thorough. I didn't even bother with messing with the drain plug as it was stripped and the socket wouldn't allow me to put any torque to it. I will fix it next time.
 
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