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11 Silverado 1500
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Few months ago I had the pinion bearings replaced, the guy that replaced them put the wrong seal in the first time. Time. It leaked all the time. I took it back. He put in another seal and I noticed it's still leaked but only when in reverse. I figure either he again put in the wrong seal or didn't tighten the yoke on properly.

I went to replace the seal myself today or at least get in and investigate a little more, not knowing that I should have used a inch pound torque wrench to measure the tightness of the nut providing it was properly torqued in the first place. I now have the seal pulled out of the differential and was getting ready to put a new seal in. Started looking for torque specs and found the very specific way in which you are supposed to torque these things.

Is there any way to get around having to pull the axles and essentially start from scratch? Or am I looking at a full day of removing my rear axles and carrier and figuring out drag specs for the pinion bearings?
 

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Did you or he put a scribe mark on the yoke and the nut? If so, tighten it ever so slightly more (shop manual says 3-5 ft lbs) and call it a day.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Did you or he put a scribe mark on the yoke and the nut? If so, tighten it ever so slightly more (shop manual says 3-5 ft lbs) and call it a day.
There was a mark on the nut, look like somebody used a chisel to put a witness mark on it. But there was not a corresponding mark on the yoke, So I tightened it up with my impact until there was no in and out movement on the yoke and then just gave it a little bit extra and turned the yolk while it turned the axles. Just to try to feel how much of a bind the bearings were in. Seems to be running okay this morning, and no leaks yet. But I haven't really driven far enough to get it warmed up to see if anything opens up and starts leaking.
 

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2009, 2500HD, 6.0 L, 4x4, Ext Cab, Alumn FlatBed
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Back in the day I would use the impact with only 50 PSI of air and run the nut in. Then use a ratchet to get the marks aligned.

Running the nut in with a high powered impace you run the risk of compressing the collar and messing up the proper mesh of the gears.

Listen for whining sounds from it.
 

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2003 Silverado 1500 LS
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@Odinvalk - you might be OK. It takes a lot of force to alter the 'crush sleeve'. Of course, some impact guns have more than enough power to crush that sleeve, but I kinda like your method. It sounds like you stopped the impact before it started ruining the preload. My guess is that you're good to go. Just listen for noises, as suggested above ^^^^^^ .
 

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2009 5.3l 6l80
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If it helps any you can read through the link in my signature for the process. Took a hell of a lot to start crushing that sleeve on mine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yea, I didn't use the impact to tighten it all the way down. Just to run it down and get to where I no longer had any movement of the yoke back and forth and then used just a ratchet to tighten it a little more. I had the wheels off the ground so I could feel how tight the bearing was.

Fun fact, it actually had a bit of a whining almost not quite grinding noise at below 25mph coming to a stop BEFORE I changed the seal. I think the guy who did the bearing repair messed up somewhere, either didn't tighten the nut enough, or too much or idk. But I've driven quite a bit today and haven't seen any signs of leaking, and no noise like the bearing screaming.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well, just as I worried. Now that I've driven on the freeway, there is a small leak. I wonder if just popping the drive shaft loose again, and giving the yoke nut just a bit more tightening would correct it. I suppose depending on where the leak is, whether on the yoke, or the outer seal of the housing.

Smh, just paid this truck off lol. I'd rather not have to deal with these issues constantly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I'm also curious. As when I drove around yesterday, short distances, no leak. Only now that I've driven further at higher speeds and actually put some heat into the diff, I checked the breather coming off the top of the diff, blowing through the hose and sucking on it from the far end. It doesn't "feel" like it's plugged. But I suppose it's possible?
 
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