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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had the Intake valve lifter for cylinder 6 on my 2009 Sierra spin a 180...227,000 miles. I drove it home 4 miles and pulled the intake off and the VLOM...snake cam'd down the tower to see that the lifter is spun.
I'm hoping I can get away with a head pull and replace the lifter and the lifter guide, and move on with my life.
Anybody have a recommendation on parts? Any tips for this job? I'll need a head gasket, head bolts, lifter and guide (lifter holder).
Thanks everybody!
 

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Be sure to inspect your cam for damage. I would strongly consider replacing all the lifters and trays (using original GM parts only) at least on that side of the engine, and replacing the VLOM. Unless you want to go a step further and do a full AFM delete. If not doing a full delete, at least use a Range or a tune to turn-off AFM.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Be sure to inspect your cam for damage. I would strongly consider replacing all the lifters and trays (using original GM parts only) at least on that side of the engine, and replacing the VLOM. Unless you want to go a step further and do a full AFM delete. If not doing a full delete, at least use a Range or a tune to turn-off AFM.
I just got my head off tonight and the spun lifter out. It has damage on 90* of the roller. I plan on replacing said lifter, and both trays on this side of the engine. As far as replacing my VLOM...my truck has 227,000 miles on it. I had AFM turned off with Hp tuners at like 96,000 miles? I plan on using the current VLOM, and using this: VLOM Oil Galley Feed Plug | Crazed Performance R
Just for piece of mind.
Tomorrow I'm going to have a friend hand crank my engine over, and I'm going to watch the came lobe rotate. I might even measure it in it's overall rotation. Finger's crossed, and I get it.."if the lobe has wear the cam does too." But these engines are known for slapping back together and running through SHIT. They're like Glock's.
What say's you guys?
 

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I just got my head off tonight and the spun lifter out. It has damage on 90* of the roller. I plan on replacing said lifter, and both trays on this side of the engine. As far as replacing my VLOM...my truck has 227,000 miles on it. I had AFM turned off with Hp tuners at like 96,000 miles? I plan on using the current VLOM, and using this: VLOM Oil Galley Feed Plug | Crazed Performance R
Just for piece of mind.
Tomorrow I'm going to have a friend hand crank my engine over, and I'm going to watch the came lobe rotate. I might even measure it in it's overall rotation. Finger's crossed, and I get it.."if the lobe has wear the cam does too." But these engines are known for slapping back together and running through SHIT. They're like Glock's.
What say's you guys?
Uhhh, pics?

Also, if I was that far into it I would put in a better cam anyway, as well as the other head gasket.
 

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2011 Sierra Z71 4x4 5.3
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With the head already off I would just change the cam, OEM plastic guides and all lifters. The old style cover is $40 and a bolt on deal. If the lifter shows damage the cam will too. Metal floating around the engine will tear up your Main,rod,cam bearings and also you'll probably see vertical scoring in the cylinder walls. I'm not sure how the scoring happens but It got both of my LC9 engines.

Melling JB-2079 lifters $9.52 each (need 16)
GM MLS head gaskets 12589226 $31 each (need 2)
GM Lifter guides 12595365 $8 each (need 4)
GM valley cover 12598832 $40
Ebay head stud kit (ARP knock offs) $49
 

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2009 5.3l 6l80
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I would have to be a little practical.. Think about what you would spend to fix it now like you mentioned. Then say it happens again 5k down the line or even 50k and you have to do that all again plus the entire rest of the engine that metal shavings went through.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Does anyone know if they make a crate engine (short block) that is non DOD that would work in my truck? I really hate the thought of pulling both heads off and doing a cam swap on an engine that has 227,000 on it.
 

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Does anyone know if they make a crate engine (short block) that is non DOD that would work in my truck? I really hate the thought of pulling both heads off and doing a cam swap on an engine that has 227,000 on it.
Wouldn’t bother me a bit. The block and pistons are probably the least wearing thing in the engine. Yours might be half way through its life cycle. I would have the heads reworked, new gaskets, cam, lifters, and good for another quarter million at least.
 

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1999 Silverado LT LQ4 2006 Sierra SLT LBZ
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Yeah for like five to six thousand dollars, sure there are short block options. I would advise you to not take those and instead just do the delete and move forward.
 

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2009 5.3l 6l80
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Short blocks are rather expensive like mentioned. TSP has some nice ones they just put out but the are 4-6k for just the short block.

For 5k I would get a complete non DOD/AFM engine from jasper ready to go and be done. You could even go with the 6.0 version or 6.2 version instead of going back with a 5.3.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Here comes possibly an idiotic question. When I put my head back on, do I need to use a new head gasket and bolts? I would normally say yes, but I had a debate with a guy at work today who works on junkyard LS engines all the time. He claims he always reuses his head gasket and bolts...but he gets new exhaust manifold gaskets and bolts. What truth is behind this?
 

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2015 High Country Duramax
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Zero truth.

I would never even remotely consider reusing a head gasket once it's been torqued. And the bolts are also one time use as they are TTY (torque to yield). I'm sure he's gotten away with it, but it is by no means the correct way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks for the quick reply...I wasn't planning on doing this, I just wanted to see opinions on this. LOL I would never think about doing this! However, this isn't the first time I heard of people doing it!
 

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2004 Sierra 3500 6.0L, auto, extended cab, cab&chassis, upgraded to 4wd
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Sure you can do it, and it may even work reasonably well most of the time. If I were spending the money to rebuild an engine, or even pop the heads off, I'd want it to have the best chance of the repair being successful.

If it were just some beater that it wasn't important to me that it run well and reliably, then sure, doing it as cheap as possible might be the way to go.
 
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