Hi. Is it possible to increase the payload on the 2024 GMC sierra 1500 4 x 4? I want to do an Overland build without having to move up to the HD 2500. Thanks
sbenus
I am working on a Spacekap fiberglass build now that will be in your weight class. Just don't get toooooo fancy.
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yeah, do a full suspension and youll be able to carry more without untoward effects of extra weight being as big an issue. or at least it will mitigate it some. or add 2500hd springs 
That said, there is no way officially change your payload rating
That said, there is no way officially change your payload rating
To clarify, I know there’s no way to certify a new GVWR. I was specifically asking about the practical effect of upgrading the suspension so that it can safely handle more weight even though the number on the sticker in the door still remains unchanged. I figure upgrading the leaf springs and other suspension would be involved but was looking at more precise info.
As mentioned, doing that upgrade will help you carry more weight.
BUT, what it will not do is change your trucks official payload capacity.
What your truck is rated for when it left the factory is not going to change.
1/2 ton trucks and those Overland style slide in campers just don't mix very well.
My 8-foot Spacekap raw weight is 825 pounds. That is a lot of space for only 825. Now you need to do a lightweight build inside for a 1/2 ton.
you cannot officially increase the capacity above what it came rated to from the factory.
you CAN make you truck handle its rated payload capacity better. you can do an add a leaf, new leaf packs, or air bags. air bags are great if you will have varying weights in the truck. an add a leaf or new leaf pack will be great if you plan to load the truck and leave it loaded. building the leaf pack will also be the most reliable/simple approach which would be a positive for an overland vehicle
some people will recommend timbrens, but they essentially are just glorified bump stops that wont help until after you already sagged or wallowed
you CAN make you truck handle its rated payload capacity better. you can do an add a leaf, new leaf packs, or air bags. air bags are great if you will have varying weights in the truck. an add a leaf or new leaf pack will be great if you plan to load the truck and leave it loaded. building the leaf pack will also be the most reliable/simple approach which would be a positive for an overland vehicle
some people will recommend timbrens, but they essentially are just glorified bump stops that wont help until after you already sagged or wallowed
I have an extra leaf in my spring pack and airbags.
The truck definitely handles a full payload much better. Adding a leaf or getting heavier packs is probably the simplest way to do it. Airbags require attention to keep pressure right etc.
The truck definitely handles a full payload much better. Adding a leaf or getting heavier packs is probably the simplest way to do it. Airbags require attention to keep pressure right etc.
It depends on how much more weight you want to handle.
For my situation, I pretty much never come close to my max payload. But I almost always have 600+ lbs in my box. And then some towing on top of that. (Again, not near the max capacity)
So for me having that extra leaf in the springs keeps my truck from being squatted out as much and I don't feel the weight as much.
I would agree, if you want to be carrying the weight limit of a 1500, probably better to go to a 2500. Like @davester3500 said, its more than just suspension that separates the 1500 amd 2500.
But, if you're going to have say 1,000-1,400 lbs in there, then you are reasonably within the 1500 truck payload, and beefing up the suspension a bit will be very beneficial.
For my situation, I pretty much never come close to my max payload. But I almost always have 600+ lbs in my box. And then some towing on top of that. (Again, not near the max capacity)
So for me having that extra leaf in the springs keeps my truck from being squatted out as much and I don't feel the weight as much.
I would agree, if you want to be carrying the weight limit of a 1500, probably better to go to a 2500. Like @davester3500 said, its more than just suspension that separates the 1500 amd 2500.
But, if you're going to have say 1,000-1,400 lbs in there, then you are reasonably within the 1500 truck payload, and beefing up the suspension a bit will be very beneficial.
Without knowing the mode of failures of the stock truck, it is an expensive learning finding out. Just look at the pics of people putting in a big slide-in campers and ending up with broken frames. But I added blue Sumo springs on my 2023 and have found no downsides loaded or empty. I tow a 3500 lb RV and with a stock 1500 with a WDH, the headlights were too high for oncoming cars. Now this the Sumos, it is way better.
I use 5000# helper bags on my truck(2500hd). I also Removed the Overload spring so when it's empty it rides better.
On-board air compressor and the use of a air pressure regulator the bags stay at a consistent number.
I've hauled a 40,000# gooseneck with it and 150psi in the bags, it handled it great.
I've never had the time to do the overland deal but have you thought about a SUV? I hog hunted out of a 2003 tahoe and had it setup where I could store supplies in a lockbox in the back and fold the seats down to sleep 2. Had made winch bumpers front and rear, 32gal aux fuel cell where spare tire was, spare battery under rear for rear winch and accessories, 4'x6' roof rack for spare and 800' of winch ropes/snatch blocks/recovery gear.
On-board air compressor and the use of a air pressure regulator the bags stay at a consistent number.
I've hauled a 40,000# gooseneck with it and 150psi in the bags, it handled it great.
I've never had the time to do the overland deal but have you thought about a SUV? I hog hunted out of a 2003 tahoe and had it setup where I could store supplies in a lockbox in the back and fold the seats down to sleep 2. Had made winch bumpers front and rear, 32gal aux fuel cell where spare tire was, spare battery under rear for rear winch and accessories, 4'x6' roof rack for spare and 800' of winch ropes/snatch blocks/recovery gear.
It's the brakes that are the limiting factor with payload, not suspension. This topic has been discussed extensively throughout the years and while the 1500s are still rated the same, the modern frames are way stronger than their older equivalents.
How much stronger? I'm no engineer so I'm not sure.
Brakes will be the number one upgrade to increase payload because stopping is much more critical than getting up to speed. Beefier components in your suspension will increase reliability but lifting the truck only makes handling worse in every situation [although required for off road travel]. The reason why trail boss and at4 can't haul as much is because of their lifts, but all new trucks have the same size brakes (scratches head)
Manufacturers sometimes derate their numbers to avoid liabilities, but that's no reason to push it.
Axles and gears won't be a problem, however the max tow package is my 24 rst has a larger pumpkin than regular.
How much stronger? I'm no engineer so I'm not sure.
Brakes will be the number one upgrade to increase payload because stopping is much more critical than getting up to speed. Beefier components in your suspension will increase reliability but lifting the truck only makes handling worse in every situation [although required for off road travel]. The reason why trail boss and at4 can't haul as much is because of their lifts, but all new trucks have the same size brakes (scratches head)
Manufacturers sometimes derate their numbers to avoid liabilities, but that's no reason to push it.
Axles and gears won't be a problem, however the max tow package is my 24 rst has a larger pumpkin than regular.
GM 2500's ride like a dream IMO. They are firmer and beefier, but they ride far better than their solid axle competitors, in stock form at least.
That brake upgrade is a brake sidegrade.
Its the same as getting non OEM fancier rotors. That kit uses semi-metallic pads. I have that kit, with ceramic pads.
You can put the biggest brake kit in the world on the truck and it won't stop faster, it just fades less. the OEM brakes are good to go, along with TBC up to capacity and then some if needed. Brakes are not the limitation to the chassis, though no argument, more is better.
The limitations in the 1500 are clear in regards to heavy weight towing/hauling.
Semi float axles, light duty suspension, light duty ball joints, light duty tie rods, tiny light duty pinion yoke, way too thin driveshaft, small u joints, 6l80 TC, AFM, Frame design and ratioed measurements. etc. Brakes come late on the list.
Its the same as getting non OEM fancier rotors. That kit uses semi-metallic pads. I have that kit, with ceramic pads.
You can put the biggest brake kit in the world on the truck and it won't stop faster, it just fades less. the OEM brakes are good to go, along with TBC up to capacity and then some if needed. Brakes are not the limitation to the chassis, though no argument, more is better.
The limitations in the 1500 are clear in regards to heavy weight towing/hauling.
Semi float axles, light duty suspension, light duty ball joints, light duty tie rods, tiny light duty pinion yoke, way too thin driveshaft, small u joints, 6l80 TC, AFM, Frame design and ratioed measurements. etc. Brakes come late on the list.
6 piston upgraded brakes
22% more rotor area and 88% larger brakes will most definitely stop better.
Let's also remember that the OP is not towing 30k or hauling around a 4k camper in their truck, which is the objectified purpose for the more heavily built 25 and 3500s.
Nobody is suggesting he do that kind of work with a 1500, not even him.
But to use the truck regularly at or slightly past it's stated maximums I believe is relatively possible with good understanding of the mechanical limits and where you sit regarding them
22% more rotor area and 88% larger brakes will most definitely stop better.
Let's also remember that the OP is not towing 30k or hauling around a 4k camper in their truck, which is the objectified purpose for the more heavily built 25 and 3500s.
Nobody is suggesting he do that kind of work with a 1500, not even him.
But to use the truck regularly at or slightly past it's stated maximums I believe is relatively possible with good understanding of the mechanical limits and where you sit regarding them
No, they don't stop you faster. This is established fact.
Big brakes gain exactly 0ft on your stopping distances. Any gains are within the margin of error.
Big brake kits provide a shorter pedal throw, more positively engaged feeling of brake application, and less brake fade due to its ability to take more heat.
Your truck cannot magically change its physical properties, allowing it to stop faster. The same laws of physics that govern the truck and its ability to halt its own momentum is not changed with additional force. There is no additional force. Additional force would induce a loss of traction. These brakes have ABS. ABS already stops you at max potential. The same is true even if you had 19 big brake kits on the same wheel.
You are incorrect. If you won't take my word for it, i'd encourage you to do your own research or trial and error.
@digbymaccus
Big brakes gain exactly 0ft on your stopping distances. Any gains are within the margin of error.
Big brake kits provide a shorter pedal throw, more positively engaged feeling of brake application, and less brake fade due to its ability to take more heat.
Your truck cannot magically change its physical properties, allowing it to stop faster. The same laws of physics that govern the truck and its ability to halt its own momentum is not changed with additional force. There is no additional force. Additional force would induce a loss of traction. These brakes have ABS. ABS already stops you at max potential. The same is true even if you had 19 big brake kits on the same wheel.
You are incorrect. If you won't take my word for it, i'd encourage you to do your own research or trial and error.
@digbymaccus
Would larger breaks stop sooner if we were talking about a truck that did not have ABS? The experienced driver becomes the ABS.
Are there ABS upgrades? I would think that race cars are now running programable ABS as conditions change over a long race,
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