I've got a Motofab 2" level on mine. It is similar to your first Rough Country link in that they go under the front struts.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KO ... UTF8&psc=1

Looks great to me and is all I needed.

As for the tires, I put a roughly half inch wider and taller tire on so now I have 31.6. I could have went taller but Sams Club was already bitching about me putting on a larger tire and almost refused to do it unless I agreed to sign on the receipt that they weren't responsible for any rubbing :lol: They had a good deal on the tires and have the best install package so I wanted to get them there.

 

the difference in those two kits is the amount of time it will take you to install, i think the easiest to install are the lower strut spacers like the RC ones you linked. I would personally by the lower strut ones over the top mounted ones.

Any 2" under the strut spacer like the Rough Country will be just fine to use, they are all the same for a leveling kit from pretty much every company.

33s will fit just fine without rubbing. at most you may have to ziptie the front of the plastic wheel well liner but thats not hard or something that will require you to cut up anything.

i have the same style truck as you, 2009 model and i ran a 285/70r17 on a 2" RC just fine. i think it rubbed about an inch square spot of the front wheel well if i turned as sharp as possible (full lock) so i used a ziptie and never worried about it anymore. With that being said i dont think you could get away with a 33x12.5 but a 33x11.5 you can.

 

Bilstein 5100 shocks > level kit

You get the level (which is adjustable ride height), and you get a great shock.

 

I have a 2011 with a RC 2" level and I run 285/70-17's with zero rub. It does depend on the offset of your wheels and the tire brand. Some have a different profile that can rub even with the same size.

 

I just did a 2 inch leveling kit on my 2009. I put 33x12.5 toyo open country rt. I have no rubbing and I have not done any modifications. Looks nice and I love the way it rides on this setup.

 

If you want the cheapest/easiest level, go with the lower strut spacers. 1" spacer gives approx 2" lift. Super easy and quick to install. No cutting of upper strut studs and you can pull the spacers out and return to stock height in 10 minutes (not that you'd want to).

 

^^^^^THIS^^^^

 

Some really useful information here, thanks guys!

I think I will be doing the RC 2" leveling kit and try some 33s.

Now for picking tires, any suggestions?

Aggressive looking, but I do NOT want a loud hum. I had Cooper Discovery AT/3 before, they were pretty good. Ill have to see if they have a bigger size tire

 

The Falken Wildpeaks get good reviews.

 

I just did a 2 inch leveling kit on my 2009. I put 33x12.5 toyo open country rt. I have no rubbing and I have not done any modifications. Looks nice and I love the way it rides on this setup.

Looks great, do you have a picture front or back to see how much tire is sticking out past the wheel well.

 

These are looking like a good fit for me...

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.js ... R8DAXLTRWL

And by this post, they should fit with my setup no problem
Cooper AT3 XLT 275/70/18 installed

 

2 1/2 inch RC leveling kit and BFG KO2 275/70/18's (33.4 inch) Just a little rubbing on my mudflaps at 1/2 turn when the tires were new.

 

I'll second MooseKnuckles and say to go with the bilstein 5100s. I posted a similar thread the other day and was doing a lot of research on them and it seems to be the way to go. You can find the 2 front shocks for $180 (or around that) and they'll be better overall for your truck. It's a 2 for 1 buy; you're getting the level and a great set of shocks that are way better than stock.

 

I've had the Bilsteins at stock setting with a Zone 2" Level Kit for 3 1/2 years, then tried the Eibach Pro Truck Lift kit and it was too stiff. I now have the Halo Lifts Boss Coilovers. I originally installed them with the spacers to achieve a 3" lift but just removed the spacers and the coilovers come set at 2". The difference in ride quality between the first two kits and the Boss Coilovers is without a doubt no where near the quality of the coilover.

They rode better at 3" than the Bilsteins. I went back down to 2" primarily because of the angles and with my stock wheels, I had to run BORA 1" spacers which caused a lot vibration. With Rough Country UCAs, the stock wheels hit at the bend in the arm (front). I put in a set of Cognito UCAs and without the BORA spacers my wheels clear them. The ride at 2" with the Cognito UCAs is very good. Leveling kits with spacers preload the coil springs and make the ride stiffer. If you don't replace the UCAs, you also limit down travel.

 

On my 13 I run the RC lower 2" level and have 275/70/18's. The tires touch the mudflap only on the drivers side while turning in one small spot and that's it. I could probably get it to clear but I really don't care so I leave it. My truck honestly doesn't look modified which I find weird... it just looks like how it should have stock. My front end was so low to the ground it looked like the coils were bagged right out of it and now it just looks how it should have. I have a tool chest that is the width of the bed, height of the rail from the floor and 20" deep full of tools to the top in the back. My truck is an NHT so the rear springs are different and now with the level and the weight in the back it sits almost perfectly level. I am sure if I pulled out the tool box the back would come up an inch or so.

The big thing is the offset of the rim you want to run. I run stock 2014+ Silverado 18's and like a lot of the guys pictured with oem wheels that works fine with the tire size I use. You decided you want aftermarkets and do a 0 offset or anything negative.. good luck. You are going to rub like mad on the inner fender without some massaging.

The ride thing is bogus too... and should be as it not preloading anything more than it was stock.... lol. My truck rides just like it did before I added the spacer. All you are doing is running the suspension closer to where it will be travel limited and bind which is what guys interpret as preload.

 

Another vote for Bilstein's. I added them to my truck about a year and half ago. Leveled it out perfect, I run a 275/65/18 no rubbing. I actually want to go to a 285 next time I buy tires.

 

The harsh ride complaints aren't from preload. It's from when the upper control arm smacks the stop becasue it ran out of travel. 2" and smaller levels aren't bad. It's the 2.5" and up that get really close and/or hit the stops at just a neutral, flat ground position. Those are where you'll feel the ride go down hill. Or if your getting the suspension to work a bit doing some off road you'll feel it.

 

If I change the wheels, which I would like to get black wheels eventually, I would be getting the stock size and maybe trying a small spacer to get the tires as close to flush as possible.

But now I need to find wheels that won't break the bank and I like.

 

I would avoid spacers at all costs. Especially those thin ones you are talking about.

 

2.5 level with 275/70R18 Nitto Ridge Grapplers no rubbing at all believe i have a zero offset...

 

I did readylift 2.25" level with new UCA's with HD ball joints. Love it! Rides so nice! Installed myself, very easy install.

 

I would avoid spacers at all costs. Especially those thin ones you are talking about.

Figured that would be the best way to determine how to flush up the wheels with the truck

 

You can look at the specs of the wheel and tire and tell how far it will stick out and then look around online for pics. That will get you the correct offset wheel without spacers

 

Well that being said, anyone have that body style truck with a flush fit wheel?

 

Depending on tire size, a +18 to a 0 offset will be flush. With a wide tire, itbdoesnt take much less offset than stock to push the wheel/tire out sonits flush.

If a narrower tire it takes a lower offset. That's all assuming you domt have fender flares. Becasue that obviously changes things a bit.