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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ive got an extended cab 2011 SIlverado. My mom has a 2012 Tahoe with the bose system (which mine does not have).
I'm trying to do a sound upgrade cause I've been spending a significantly more amount of time driving and have realized through hours of listening to my stock speakers how crappy they are. I'm looking for something to compare to my moms car, not looking for anything that is going to rattle the cab when I'm at a red-light from a sub. I'm new to speakers and everything so after some ready, I'm a little confused on channels and what I need to look for in speakers and amps(if I decide to get one). I'm not looking to spend an enormous amount, maybe $300 with everything. Any help would be appreciated!!

Thanks!
 

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$300 is your budget? Is that including an aftermarket head unit or are you going to keep the stock one? How many subs? 10's or 12's? Replacing all four door speakers? If you want the "Bose" sound you will need an amp on the door speakers, front and back. Give me some more info and I'll see what I can come up with.
 

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What don't you like about the stock speakers? Is it the lack of bass? Do they not get loud enough, or don't sound good at high volumes? If the speakers in general just don't sound good to you, I'd personally take a cd into an audio shop and spend your whole budget on 1 good set of speakers that sound good with the music you will be listening to, to replace your front speakers. If you are set on replacing the rears as well, then I would spend $200-250 on the fronts and $50-100 on the rears. Based on your original post I think you will be satisfied without an amp.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
They aren't loud enough and they lack bass. I want to do the whole truck but i would spend more on the front. Is it possible to always add an amp and sub later?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
How is Kicker for speakers? How am i looking at speakers, with a tweeter in the middle or am i replacing the tweeter on my A post. Also how do i get that unique shape? Thanks!!
 

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Speakers with the tweets in the middle are called co-axials. These are a less expensive alternative to component speakers. They typically only have a hi-pass filter capacitor on the tweet with the mid-woofer run full-range. The problem with these is that the tweets are aimed at your ankles where they don't sound their best. IMO these are fine for rear door speakers but component speakers should be run up front. The problem you run into with these is that the new tweets are not an easy drop-in replacement for the stock tweets in the A-pillars. It can be done if you're good at fabricating your own way of mounting the new tweets there. IMO this isn't where the tweets will sound their best. I prefer the tweets mounted in the door panels close to the mid-woofers. The down side of this is that most people are opposed to using a hole saw to cut a mounting hole for the tweets. In the end it all boils down to how important the overall sound of your stereo system is to you. For me the higher the quality of the reproduced sound the better so I went with door mounted tweets. If the sound isn't that important to you then co-axials may be your best option.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Sound is important to me, so you think i should disconnect the tweeters now and just leave them? Where did you put the new tweeters on the door? As long as its not a super tight area, I'm comfortable drilling holes to mount them. I was looking into upgrading the tweeters and I saw people buying 3/4'' tweeters and doing small trimming on the plastic so they fit and look stock. How many channel amp should I get if I'm getting 2 coaxial and 2 component, then down the line a smaller sub? and sstumpf, I'm going to look into those right now!! Thanks for all the help guys! I'm actually debating on holding off on the lift I was going to do and put a nice sound in all at once, these decisions are tough!!
 

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I would definitely do components in the front and co-axials in the rear. A four channel amp will suffice front and rear for these. Depending the the RMS wattage of the future sub, a five channel amp may be sufficient. Just make sure the RMS wattage of the fifth channel of the amp will be enough to push the RMS wattage of the sub. I would preferably mount the tweets in the stock locations, but if you're up to drilling holes in your door panels, go for it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I'm actually looking at the Kicker Hideaway which if i understand correctly, is powered so i just need a signal for it? I'm not entirely sure where i can pick this signal but i think the size of the unit is perfect for what I'm looking for. I don't want a big bass unit cause i don't have much room in my truck for it. Would this be a cheaper way, because then all i need is a 4 channel amp.
 

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Here's a shot of my passenger door. I used a hole saw to cut the mounting hole to the specified size and it fit like a glove.

I would definitely recommend disconnecting the factory tweets. Having multiple tweets will degrade the imaging. As far as amps go I like to use a dedicated amp for the subwoofer. I'm currently running a pair of 10" RF subs @ 2Ω with a 500W Class-D MTX amp. The front speakers are powered by a 125W x 2 Class-D Polk Audio amp. I'm an SQ car stereo person myself and normally don't bother with rear speakers. I had some JL co-axials from a previous installation so I went ahead and installed them in back and run them off of the HU's amp.

I don't have any personal experience with the Kicker Hideaway but a few reviews on Crutchfield would raise a red flag for me regarding it's reliability.
 

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I added 6.5 Alpine speakers in the front and 5 1/4 in the back doors of my 2011 extended cab. They sounded ok but were lacking power so I added the Alpine Power pack and now the factory deck sounds great. These speakers and really loud with the highs and the mids. Bass response is lacking so I eventually will get a sub for under my back seat.
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500SPS610/ ... S-610.html
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500SPS510/ ... S-510.html
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500KTP445U ... -Pack.html
 

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Having the tweets in the doors sounds and images WAY better than the stock location. When I first started to upgrade the sound system in my truck I began with replacing the door speakers. Initially I only installed the JL mid-woofer and used it along with the factory tweet. It didn't sound bad but nowhere as good as previous systems I've had before where the tweets were in the doors near the mid-woofers. It didn't take long before I got tired of the way the stereo sounded and installed the tweets in the doors. Looking back now I should have placed them there from the very beginning.
 

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sstumpf said:
I would recommend diamond audio speakers. I have the diamond d6 components in all doors. Powered by a 600wx4 amp. These came with a mount to mount the tweets in the middle of the mids.

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lol not for $300
 

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I have a nbs so the tweets are mounted in the door also, but with the diamonds you can mount over mid like on a coaxial.

Yes you probably can't get this setup for $300, but he said sound was important to him so i was just throwing it out there. But there are definitely cheaper options. Sound is just something I don't go cheap on.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
How should I be picking speakers out? based on power then get an amp for the speakers? Just trying to figure out exactly what I want. Hows Sony stuff? or would you stick with kicker?
 
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