[Greggeis]

I have an 05 Z71 Silverado with 138,000 miles on it. It developed a rhythmic noise at idle, sort of a low pitch squeal. It sounded like it was coming from around the serpentine belt area but I couldn't find it. I took it to the mechanic who first thought it was the idler pulley, but when they pulled the serpentine belt off they ran it again and it was still there. They think it is the main bearing starting to give out and recommended an engine swap. Total for a used (not rebuilt, but <100k mi) is $3300 with labor.

Is there anything else you recommend checking before getting an engine swap? Any advice on getting a used engine vs other options?

The truck is only worth about $8k on KBB, so I'm debating on how much I should put into it and how much life I might expect out of it.

 

[ferraiolo1]

3300 for a junk yard engine swap?? Find another garage and get a different opinion.

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[djlove]

before you go throwin motors at it you should probably take it to someone and have them rule out the oil pump.

 

[66deadhead]

I would try to check on trying to get a newer motor if possible, with much lower miles. Not sure what's out there for your application, and I don't know if this will help you but I was quoted $ 3,300 just to change head gaskets on a 2004 dodge Dakota not long ago. By a reputable mechanic. It was a 3.7 V-6. They wanted $ 5,500 to drop in a new jasper motor with a 3year 100,000 mile warranty. I thought both numbers was pretty high, but other shops in the area didn't come in much less. I would have probably just done the work myself, but, I'm unable to at the time as we take care of my mother who is ill and lives with us. So I just don't have the time. The truck is still sitting in my driveway to this day. And is in otherwise good shape. As I just don't know what to do with it right now.

 

[295/60r20]

This is beyond absurd. The mechanic need to JUSTIFY why they believe it needs a new engine. That motor with 130k should be ready for another 100k if taken good care of.

You need a compression test and a leak down test, hands down. if you or the mechanic are unwilling to get those very essential and fundamental tests done then simply drive the motor until it explodes under the same maitenance conditions you are observing currently.

 

[Gozzie]

Get more opinions, there are many things that make noises that can be easily replaced without needing a new motor.
Finding out what it is, is what I would concentrate on.

 

[Fisger8new]

Gotta agree on getting to another mechanics opinion. Too many things that it could be to make that call right off the bat. A junk yard engine swap at $3300 sounds absurd to me. There is no guarantee on a junk yard motor and I don't know about other places but a 5.3 can be had for between $300 and $800 here from a salvage yard depending on condition and if it is a U pull it or pulled for you. If it does turn out to need a new engine. I'd really suggest a rebuilt rather than straight from the junk yard. You don't want to spend that money to inherit someone elses problem.

 

[Greggeis]

Thanks. So if I can confirm it is the main bearing, the swap is a reasonable solution? I still need to get a few more quotes.

I'd also look into driving it until I could find another truck and just selling it cheap with the squeal if it hangs in there. Any idea if these can hang around a little while or is the sound typically near death?

 

[Gozzie]

you have to find out what it is to be able to answer that

 

[SparkyJJO]

Is it a metallic squeal? Or is it a rubber squeal? Really loud? Only just noticeable? Only at idle or also noisy at higher RPM?

What really bugs me is the guy hasn't taken anything apart aside from the belt and is claiming - without further analysis - that the engine is now shot and wants 3 grand for putting in a used engine. No, just no.

 

[ferraiolo1]

Any main beating I have ever heard going began to knock not squeal

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[Jasen]

Replace a motor because the noise isn't a pulley??!?!?! Never mind the fact a main bearing is a serviceable part.
Like the others have said, find another shop that will properly diagnose the issue.

Sounds like the guy at the tire shop that told a lady she could not put air in her tire because it doesn't mix with the nitrogen they were filled with. And yes I made him look like the ass that he was.

 

[Greggeis]

I was surfing YouTube looking for main bearing noises and none of them matched until I found this one:

I don't have it in person to compare but im like 99% sure it's a dead match. Unfortunately looking at the comments at the bottom it turned out to be a main bearing. I'll still take it somewhere for a second opinion but it looks like I'm probably going to be bidding out the engine swap or a main bearing replacement if that's feasible.

 

[Greggeis]

I talked to my dad about it and he suggested removing both belts to check all accessories first. If the squeak is not eliminated he suspects it could be valve train noise.

He said the valves would be quiet on a cold start then squeak starts 3-5 minutes later but crank bearings would start immediately and get worse. I think it started immediately but might have been much less niticable on start but I'm not positive and I don't have access at the moment.

He suggested to add EOS to Mobil 1 and run it for 1000 miles to see if it goes away before swapping the engine.

 

[puppeteer]

the question is do you owe anything on it? If not is it worth it to you to put the money in? If it is then I would do a engine swap anyways. Keep the motor from the truck and rebuild that one myself. Giving me a 2nd motor if needed. Other wise you are looking more than $3500 for a different truck. This is all just tentative on the fact that the motor does indeed need to be replaced. But I would have a different shop look into it.

 

[295/60r20]

i have not had main bearing issues on my truck yet but i do think my timing cover or worse the pulley/crank front seal is leaking. (very slowly)

in the case that its your main bearing (front or rear?) wouldnt it also be leaking?

 

[ferraiolo1]

Only time a main bearing failure would start leaking is when a rod goes through the block

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[wildchevy]

man we get some hilarious replies, :lol:

 

[badbruin44]

Get a mechanic that knows how to perform a diagnosis. He should be able to narrow it down considerably with a stethoscope and let if it is metal or what sound it is be careful and get it diagnosed properly this in itself could possibly save you money.

 

[Gozzie]

Your dad sounds like a smart guy. It sounds like he is willing to help you along.