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2010 GMC All Terrain 4x4 5.3 210,000 mi
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Discussion Starter · #1,821 · (Edited)
Finally got around to putting some rear marker lights on the cap. This one did not come with a third brake light, and initially I planned on installing marker lights and a separate third brake light pictured. I had picked up a multi pack of them when I did the front amber marker lights.
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In the end, I decided it would look to busy to have the bar light and the marker lights, so even though I had the 3/4" red LED's already, they were only on and off. I ordered a set that has a low and high output so that I could use them as both marker lights and CHMSL brake lights. These were a little pricey, and I probably could have tracked down a smaller set for less...https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Q3TS3NL/

All 5 light up as marker lights and then when you hit the brake, the center three get brighter. I ended up finding that the orange wire in the aftermarket brake controller wires under the dash acted like a third brake signal. I couldn't find where the actual third brake lights were at under the dash. So this was easy access and I ran it out through the grommet under the drivers side footwell and along the frame rail to the lights. Initially I had wired the rear markers to the left tail light running lights, but I changed that later to be on the same circuit as my front marker lights which has a dash switch to turn on and off (it is switched power and only on when ignition is on).
Automotive parking light Automotive tail & brake light Automotive side marker light Vehicle Car
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Here is the wire loom all buttoned up across the top of the cap in back.
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Everything worked ok, but the difference from marker to brake light intensity was not quite enough, especially during the day. I ended up adding two more lights between the original three. The two new ones are not on when marker lights are on, but come on when the brake is pressed. I used a stepper bit to drill out the holes. This particular one was 3/4" at the largest, which is exactly what the hole needed to be for these lights, so you just drill it straight through.
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Re-wiring to add the two middle lights.
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Daytime video: (my youngest at the help giving me a hand for the video)

Nighttime video:


At the same time, I installed some LED strips on the top for lighting. I wanted these to be able to turn on anytime, and had to connect the 12v constant power at the under hood fuse box and install a 40A j-case fuse. Then tapped into that wire just behind the spare tire. The interior cap LED strips turned out fantastic. Excellent light when needed. This is the kit I bought and was pretty low cost. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D118ZZL/

Here is a video with my youngest assistant helping me by pressing the brakes.
 

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Premium Member
2010 GMC All Terrain 4x4 5.3 210,000 mi
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18,256 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1,823 ·
Continuing to update work completed.

I just posted about the fix I did on the Amp power steps here: Repairing Amp Research power steps that clunk when deployed

Having hit the 200k mark it has not been 100k+ since the last time I did plugs and wires, so got them purchased and installed last month. I used the same 9748UU ACDelco Pro wires I used last time https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FG2N0AY/ . Old ones looked fine, but this is cheap insurance. The plugs I went with the 41-110 OEM ACDelco as well https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002I0GYZU/ . The new ones which I believe are just a different manufacturer were a bit more cost.
Gas Font Electric blue Shipping box Wood


Automotive parking light Automotive side marker light Vehicle Vehicle registration plate Car



Most of them all looked like these. Pretty normal. Just some electrode erosion.
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Both sides done.
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The old stuff out. # 8 was fighting me and I ended up pulling the wire out, and then when I was trying to get the spark plug out, noticed the end terminal was still on it. I did them all from above and did not bother to pull the fender liner to get at it from the side. Was no problem getting the plug out, just not a good angle to pull the spark plug wire.
Pliers Wire stripper Tool Electrical wiring Wood


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A video of the engine running after swapping the plugs and wires. It had a little rpm bobble to it (that seemed a little more than the usual) which now seemed better.


Some time later, I decided to try out using ceramic coating to detail the black trim. I have used a number of products over the years and they all mostly look good when first done. It's more a question of how long they last until needing to be re-done. My hope is that this will last a lot longer than the others have.

Started with the rear bumper.
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Then the front
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And mirrors
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Time will tell how it hold up, but looks great right now. I did not do the cowl since it is damaged and I need to replace it.
 

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2010 GMC All Terrain 4x4 5.3 210,000 mi
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18,256 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1,825 ·
No, it was this Autokcan stuff from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QD58TRQ/

The Cerakote is good stuff from what I have seen. I had this which I had purchased a while back and had not yet gotten either vehicle ready to put it on, so decided to use it for the trim. It went through the little 30 ml bottle fast. I had two and used 1 and a third on my truck and the wifes car (which we traded a few weeks later :mad::rolleyes:)
 

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41-110 plugs have been heavily counterfeited by the Chicoms. They can even be found on Amazon and of course we warn against their use unless one knows the seller well.

The current number is 41-162. GM says the plugs are gapped and they are, I always find one or two a little off and still adjust them, carefully.

Like most, I always put anti-seize on the threads. GM says the silver coating is a form of anti-seize that is designed to break away if there is corrosion. Anti-seize skews torque readings, something I never considered as I've never torqued a spark plug!

Recently came across your build thread and enjoyed the read.
 

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2010 GMC All Terrain 4x4 5.3 210,000 mi
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18,256 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1,831 ·
A small update today. I recently purchased some new white LED's for our new to us 2020 Nissan Armada and did most of the basic lights on it. I got a pack of 194 bulbs and had some left over so decided to swap out the old LED's I had installed in my license plate light housings. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G312DR2/

The ones that were in there were fine, nice and white but just to test I swapped in one of the new Sealight ones and it seemed a bit brighter. The old ones have a frosted dome so maybe that was the difference.
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The one big thing I did notice (not that big a thing really) was that the lens on the housing itself was looking a bit yellowed. Nobody would notice this, but me...and it's my truck and this is exactly the little things I like to do to keep it looking nice.


Here is what was on there and compared to the new ones I bought.
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Before changing it out
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After - new housing and bulb
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I ended up buying some Dorman ones I found on Amazon. There were lots of chinese imported ones that looked different, smooth vs the textured finish and the lens was full clear vs the OEM looking lines in there. And OEM were something silly cost, so these fit the budget well. Just over $6 each. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006G2MJZU
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A couple more comparison shots of the old OEM and the new Dorman
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This was another small fix up. The replacement blue All Terrain fender emblems I had installed a couple years ago were looking pretty faded. So I picked up some new ones and swapped them out.
Automotive lighting Hood Grille Motor vehicle Automotive design


Car Land vehicle Vehicle Wheel Automotive lighting
 

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2010 GMC All Terrain 4x4 5.3 210,000 mi
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18,256 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1,833 ·
Those look nice, but I prefer a more stock look. And the texture vs smooth black finish is not what I would want either.

You can size those pictures down some when you post to prevent it from taking up so much screen. I try to reduce mine down when posting so it is easier to follow and read.
 

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2010 GMC All Terrain 4x4 5.3 210,000 mi
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18,256 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1,834 ·
I had the same right rear window switch stop working on me again. Not sure why that one has failed twice now and none of the others have acted up. It's a simple fix so I popped out the switch with a plastic tool.
Hood Wood Amber Automotive exterior Bumper


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Popped the switch out of the trim by carefully prying out the plastic over the clips.
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Pried the switch apart.
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These contacts are what gets dirty and the corresponding contacts on the silicone part.
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I used an eraser to clean them off.
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Sanded on the pins for the connector to clean them up as well.
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And back working. Now I need to get my windows re-tinted. The crummy place I took it to did a poor job and used poor material. Lots of it is wavy and looking bad. One of my kiddos pealed a section on this back window. :rolleyes:
 

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I get those switches from a guy on ebay, they are OE in white boxes, from the factory that GM uses in Mexico. Switch-Doctor. They used to be $7 each but with Bidenflation, they are $12 nowadays.

Get ceramic tint. I asked for max allowed by law but don't think I got it! Sure beats the factory 70-25-22 though!

Wheel Tire Vehicle Automotive tire Motor vehicle
 

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2010 GMC All Terrain 4x4 5.3 210,000 mi
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18,256 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1,836 ·
That looks like mine on the front windows. 25% is the max here in TX. The back can be anything. Ceramic may be out of my price comfort range. I will get hit with a few for removal of the old stuff so doing to hurt already. I should have walked away from that shop that did it.
 

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5% all over!

Just take the old off before going in to save that fee, I think it was $25 or $50 for the place I go to
 
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