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2010 GMC All Terrain 4x4 5.3 210,000 mi
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Discussion Starter · #1,841 ·
Yes, I have tint installed over the factory glass which has tint inside it. Pretty common. The OEM glass is like 25% range in back and rear windows, so add another 20% on top of that and you get to around 5%. I like it darker to keep the sun and heat out as much as possible.
 

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Gustafson
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Yes, I have tint installed over the factory glass which has tint inside it. Pretty common. The OEM glass is like 25% range in back and rear windows, so add another 20% on top of that and you get to around 5%. I like it darker to keep the sun and heat out as much as possible.
Oh, ok. That's not something I have ever seen before. Then again, here in Michigan we don't have the extreme sun and temps you guys do down in Texas.
 

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2010 GMC All Terrain 4x4 5.3 210,000 mi
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Discussion Starter · #1,844 ·
Got some goodies for the truck recently. I dont know that any of mine are really bad, but after over 200k I suspect maybe they are not running at top efficiency. These popped up on the marketplace here for a reasonable amount so I bought them. I am working on a simple bench test setup to just see if I can notice a difference. I am not really planning on a full blown test to measure volume, just wanted to see spray pattern and see if any look odd or whatever.
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I took the truck in to discount tire this past Tuesday for a rotation and balance. As usual, the guys knock off my center caps and plop them down on the nice front surface. :mad: I walked out there and pointed out to the two kids working on them that I purchased those center caps and the vinyl GMC logo stickers and would appreciate a bit more care and to turn them over. Really annoys me.
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The one kid turned over one that was right in front of me and told me something about how they are weighted and they just land that way... ummmm...maybe if you dont toss them down but rather place them on the ground that would not happen... :rolleyes:
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Oh look...a text...
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2015 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4 leveled and 2015 GMC Sierra 1500 2wd lowered.
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582 Posts
I am not really planning on a full blown test to measure volume, just wanted to see spray pattern and see if any look odd or whatever.
Are you planning to use actual gasoline for the fluid? It will be interesting to see how you keep the bench test setup pressurized, constant, in order to match typical fuel pump psi. All while being safe.
 

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2010 GMC All Terrain 4x4 5.3 210,000 mi
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18,256 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1,847 ·
No, carb and choke cleaner. This will not be so empirical of a test. I would need one of these test deals to do something to get accurate flow comparisons using the pre-determined valve opening speed and duration tests it contains.


Or spend a lot of money on something like this. I have also seen some knock off ones on ebay for like $80. Still more than I want to spend.


But looking again, this is an interesting one and not much more than the first one above. And has the little adapter that will connect up.


Or this without the test tool will just be on and off with power.


My main goal is just to see if the spray pattern looks ok or if erratic. Will just give me some good feeling for spending money on parts I suppose...haha
 

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2010 GMC All Terrain 4x4 5.3 210,000 mi
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18,256 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1,848 ·
I ended up finding the warranty details on my original tint job done back in Feb of 2015. I drove up to the place and the guy that helped me seemed knowledgeable, but was almost instantly telling me the damage on nearly all the windows was not tint failure but rather due to using Windex with ammonia. Which I have never used on this tint. I use and have always used on a tinted window this Invisible Glass that is tint safe...no ammonia.
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Anyway, he said that he sends in pictures to SunTek and they reject stuff like that and so he would give me a bit of a break but the cost would be over $300 plus tax. And they would need the truck all day because of how difficult it is to remove the old tint.

I decided to go to another shop that I had called and gotten a price for before I had found my warranty card. They quoted me 2 hrs and $250. (a third place called Tint World was like $150 to strip and $250 for the base tint). I decide to drive up to the other place and talk to them directly and see what was what.

They were finishing up some add ons to a van for a contractor and were able to get me in right then. Took a little under 2 hrs and it looks great again. Well...just like it did before the wrinkling started. And now I am out $270. haha They use a Garware product and warranty this base stuff for 10 years. I could have paid another $100 for some ceramic but really didn't want to pay any more than needed right now.

In the shop getting done. They used a steamer and it made pretty quick work of pulling the old tint off. Then sprayed some stuff on there and let it sit to dissolve the left over glue residue. Then scrapped it all down with razors.
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This was the rear window with the ripped spot in the middle of it. My kiddos had seen a bubble and possibly a small tear from going up and down, but pulled on it and made it worse. But all the windows were failing and looking rippled from the inside. The front passenger window had a couple dime size spots where you could see bubbles from the outside.
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Looking good again. Hopefully it all dries in nice and no bubbles or anything....but if so, I can take it back in to have it fixed or re-done if needed.
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Well, I've made it. Spent the better part of the last two working days reading all 1848 posts in your build thread (don't tell my boss). What a wealth of information, both visually and in well written descriptive updates. I'm a new owner of a 2013 Sierra 1500 SLE with a focus very much like yours when it comes to maintenance, refreshing small factory bits back to original condition, and tasteful modifications. I'm still discovering what has been replaced on my truck (bought at 113K) and what I will need to take care of in the near future.

Your truck looks fantastic. I love the silver with blue details, and those OEM+ wheels are the perfect look.
 

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Thank you Velocrank. I appreciate the comments. It certainly has turned into a lengthy read! haha

Glad you joined up and welcome to the forum. If you enjoy documenting and sharing, start up your own thread to share your journey.
Thank you Neal.

I was curious about your differential drop that you decided not to install. I know you mentioned that you didn't have a vibration in the axles from the leveling blocks, but later when dropping the pan (and diff), was there any thought about going through with adding the drop upon reinstall? I do experience a vibration at highway speeds, and while I haven't had the truck long enough to hunt it down, I did find 2" leveling blocks on the front. Could be my balance or the 275/70R18 K02s, or a long list of anything at this point, but I actually only learned of the differential drop and it's advantage during your build thread.

I like the idea of starting a build thread of my own, great suggestion!
 

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2010 GMC All Terrain 4x4 5.3 210,000 mi
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Discussion Starter · #1,854 ·
Thank you Neal.

I was curious about your differential drop that you decided not to install. I know you mentioned that you didn't have a vibration in the axles from the leveling blocks, but later when dropping the pan (and diff), was there any thought about going through with adding the drop upon reinstall? I do experience a vibration at highway speeds, and while I haven't had the truck long enough to hunt it down, I did find 2" leveling blocks on the front. Could be my balance or the 275/70R18 K02s, or a long list of anything at this point, but I actually only learned of the differential drop and it's advantage during your build thread.

I like the idea of starting a build thread of my own, great suggestion!
Once I replaced the front shafts, I no longer had any vibration that I noticed. So I decided not to bother. I think the front level, although looks nice to me, has caused a number of issues like low life of upper control arms.

Certainly tire balance plays a huge role. Some are hard to get perfect. And the heavier E rated tires are maybe slightly more difficult as well.
 

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2010 GMC All Terrain 4x4 5.3 210,000 mi
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Discussion Starter · #1,855 ·
$150 for removal holy smokes.
It took them quite a while with the steamer and then all the glue cleanup...so I was pretty surprised this shop was not more for both removal and install. I would charge someone more that than if I were a shop and doing it. Time is money!
 

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It took them quite a while with the steamer and then all the glue cleanup...so I was pretty surprised this shop was not more for both removal and install. I would charge someone more that than if I were a shop and doing it. Time is money!
Bingo.. if it took a shop with the tools, knowledge, and experience that long to get it done.. it wouldve taken me TRIPLE the time. :D Sounds like a good payment to make to me. ;)
 

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Once I replaced the front shafts, I no longer had any vibration that I noticed. So I decided not to bother. I think the front level, although looks nice to me, has caused a number of issues like low life of upper control arms.

Certainly tire balance plays a huge role. Some are hard to get perfect. And the heavier E rated tires are maybe slightly more difficult as well.
Thank you. I would agree that the truck looks better level but I'd have rather dropped the back if it was my choice. Either way, I've got a vibration to figure out and I'll start with the wheels and tires. I chased a vibration problem for months in my previous vehicle, so you'd think I'd be good at it, but rather, I'm just tired of the process.
 

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2015 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4 leveled and 2015 GMC Sierra 1500 2wd lowered.
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I've got a vibration to figure out and I'll start with the wheels and tires.
I had a vibration problem on a recent new-to-me used truck I purchased. Turned to be the aftermarket wheels were lug centric and not hub centric. All factory GM wheels are hub centric. I had to purchase custom made hub centric rings to fill in the gap. The rings fit perfectly and eliminated the vibration I had at 60-70mph.
 

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2010 GMC All Terrain 4x4 5.3 210,000 mi
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18,256 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1,859 ·
Finally found time to knock out a mod I have been wanting to do for a while now. Ever since I got this cap for my business use, the dual locks have been a major pain to lock and unlock constantly. When I park at a job and have to go in and out for tools and lock and unlock each time to prevent potential theft, it is a time drain and a hassle. I looked for an off the shelf option, but none exists for the dual latch type of cap. Only a few with the center latch.

So I came up with a plan and decided to purchase two generic two wire lock actuators (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00U8L9UM0) and some other misc items and tie them into the Pop & Lock power tailgate lock actuator signal wire I had already run to the tailgate.

Air gun Trigger Gun barrel Gun accessory Recreation


Also picked up two of these 2-1/2" barrel bolt latches Everbilt 2-1/2 in. Zinc-Plated Barrel Bolt 15142 - The Home Depot
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The theory was to remove the current metal bracket that attaches to the square shaft of each latch and install part of the barrel bolt onto the actuator on each side of the window to extend and lock against the trim.

stuff everywhere
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I used my portable metal bandsaw to cut a piece of 1/16" or so steel to make an attachment to the actuators. (I really need to make a table to mount the bandsaw to. I have the steel, just have not done it)

After I cut the metal strip to length, I use a scrap piece of hard steel to form a u shape. Then cut it in half and drilled a 3/16" hole through it.
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I then shifted to mounting the end of the barrel bolt catch onto the shaft of the door latches. I considered welding these, but they have to be put on after it is on the door, so being able to remove them if needed seemed a better way to go. I drilled two holes after marking them and tapped them. (a #25 drill bit is what was needed for tapping the holes to 10-24 thread). The shaft material was somewhat soft and tapped very easy, so probably best I didn't try to weld it. I picked up this large tap and die kit off Amazon a while back when it was on sale and have used it quite a bit since then. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GMVA64/ (it is showing about the same price again now of $215 for the 114 pc set)
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Then I moved back to welding the little u shaped piece to the end of the barrel bolt. I removed the press fit slide pin and then removed the bolt from the stamped metal. Welding this little thing was tricky and the first one took me several tries to get a good weld. I dont weld a lot and get a little better after doing it again for a bit. The grinder is my friend...haha. I didn't get a stand alone shot of these after I cleaned them up a bit. But they were nice and solid and I didn't blow out the thinner u bracket which was a concern. I found that starting the weld bead on the thicker rod and then moving it into the thinner u bracket was the trick to get a good melt and bond.

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Here is the actuator mounted on the drivers side. I just used a cotter pin and will probably remove it to put a little paint on the bolt so it does not rust. View from the bottom side.
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This is the passenger side shown from the top side. I ended up using the really thin strap they sent with these. The window aluminum is double wall there so I drilled from the inside and used two blind rivets to mount the strap to the window. With a washer to space it out some since the latch was screwed to the strap using two screws into the plastic mounting holes. Seems to be secure enough.
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I had to step here and take my two younger kiddos trick or treating and then got back to it in the dark. I had set up some temp wiring to ensure it was working ok before a more permanent wiring was done.
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It worked perfectly, so I pushed on and cleaned up most of the wiring and ran it in split loom until I ran out of the 1/4" size.

The wires ran along the side of the window and I used some stick on cable tie blocks. I may have to re-do that if they dont hold. I left a loop near the top so nothing bound up when the back glass was opened and closed.
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Shot two videos to show how it works. One from in side and the other outside.


I am really thrilled with how this turned out and it only took a few hours to put all together once I had a plan and the materials. I still need to button up some wire in loom that goes down to the spot where I tapped into the signal wires.
 
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