I am really happy with how this all turned out. I was on a job today at a solar panel supplier/installer. They wanted 5 huge panels installed on their office walls as art. They plan to put some pictures in them eventually. I was in and out of the office and in the warehouse cutting the aluminum extrusion that was used to mount the panels to the wall...much like how they are mounted on a roof. Anyway, the ease of locking and unlocking the back of the truck to access it was a tremendous time saver!
A couple of the little stick on zip tie holder have already come loose. So I will have to fix those. I may just peal off the sticky and super glue them on.
Don't you love those kinds of realizations.. You plotted this whole thing out and executed it to save time.. and now everytime you easily lock it and walk away saving that extra minute or two.. you get that feeling like "yes. Its all working as planned." hah
I week or so ago, I decided to swap out my reverse lights. I had some Morimoto in there from 6-7 years ago and they were looking a bit yellowed. I purchased some Sealight 3157 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PNLTXMD) from Amazon and was pretty impressed with both the color temp and the output. They were more true white than the Morimoto. Could be that the Morimoto have just faded over time and also due to the yellowing lens. But also the Morimoto was an old design and the chips faced out and not toward the lens so that reduced the output a lot. The new Sealight have the all around and forward facing chips so it fills the reflector in the reverse lamp area much better.
Sealight on the left and old Morimoto on the right.
Pulled everything out and did some cleaning and organizing.
Also picked up a new pancake air compressor...because it was blue...haha. Lowes had them on sale and I had been eyeing it for a while. I had picked up the Porter Cable used a while back and it works just fine. Selling it local to recoup some of the cost. It came with 4 air nailers which I sold since I had those already, so it was already pretty much free.
With everything cleaned out, I did a couple maintenance items. I still had some water leaking in on the side windows, so I put some silicone where I think it was getting in to stop that. Sprayed some black paint on a few spots where there was some wear on the cap interior. And needed to address the wire grommet things that were not sticking well on some wiring for the new power hatch latches and the previous marker light work. I just scraped off the little double sided sticky stuff and super glued them using the ca and activator. Should hold secure now.
Here is one of them on the window frame after gluing it on.
After that, I decided to finish off the wiring. I had run out of 1/4" split loom and the 25' roll came in this past week. I also needed to make a permanent connection under the truck were I tapped into the lock and unlock signal wires. I had used some t taps to quickly get up and running initially and to test the wiring. Now I went back and soldered them with solder seal sleeves, covered it all with split loom and zip tied everything up.
Removing the t-taps and cutting the signal wires.
Solder seal sleeves installed.
All buttoned up in split loom and zip tied.
This is where the wires run up behind the drivers side tail light and into the bed via a hole I drilled through the bed rail and cap base.
I also tweaked the aluminum extrusion at the base of the back hatch/window to remove some play in the window when the latches are extended. I didn't want them overly tight and cause the pins to bind up. I actually went to far with one and had to pinch it back down for that reason.
I picked this up at Walmart and just put some on the other day. I was planning on putting some ceramic coating I had for paint on there, but got a little worried it may not go on easy and cause some visibility issues if I messed up. So I saw this and figured I would give it a shot. Goes on very easy. Dries fast and then you polish it out. I actually had some overspray on one side of the windshield when the wind was blowing and didn't notice it. I just sprayed some more on that side today and wiped it off and it cleaned it up. Water is beading very well just like with standard Rain-X and is much easier to apply...and faster. The trick will be how long this stuff lasts.
Buy Rain-X 630178 Pro Ceramic 2-in-1 Glass Cleaner and Water Repellent 16 oz, Gold: Glass Cleaners - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
On an unsuccessful note...I still have leaking from the side windows of the cap. I have sealed them multiple times. I think it is leaking in between the window glass and the rubber seal that holds them in. I really wish I had just a solid one piece glass with a better seal. It is not a huge amount unless we have a massive downpour like yesterday. Then it collects on the cap lip on top of the bed rail and puddles there.
I have plenty of silicone. Just need to find out where to put it. Some of the seals I replaced and should be ok. But at this point, I am going to start sealing all around the glass inside and out and be done with it.
Im interested in that.. I have been looking at doing the aquapel or gtechniq coating. Both are top rated. You can clay bar the windshield or even take 0000 steel wool and ONR to clean it. Or cesium and felt pad on a buffer. So many options.
The aquapel seems to last about a year from the reading I have done, key is in the prep.
Guess we will see how it lasts and I will report back. I like that is is quicker and easier than standard RainX to apply. And other than those spots I missed and had to re-do, I dont notice any streaking on the windshield. That was one issue I had with the regular RainX that you had to really work hard to get it buffed out to not have any streaks. I actually used a damp rag to do a final wipe down which seemed to help. With this ceramic stuff, I use two rags. One to apply and the other to buff clean.
On another note, my driver door was getting noisy when opening and closing. I sprayed some silicone spray on the hinge and that helped to quiet it down but it looks in somewhat worn condition, so I ordered a complete lower hinge assembly to replace this one with. I cheaped out and have an aftermarket one coming that was 1/4 th the cost of OEM. So will see how that fairs. I think it may just be a zinc finish on it. Will probably just leave it like that vs trying to paint it.
I also bought a couple key fobs just to take the rubber button parts out of them. I hate when mine get yellow or start wearing off. But I am not happy with the ones I got and will be returning them. My current one is an OEM fob and I am picky about how the white lock and unlock, etc stenceling looks. These are too thin and just look cheapish. And they were $26 for the pair. So back they go.
Mine looks a little more yellow in person than it shows up here. I may try to scrub it a little. The OEM ones are fairly robust.
The Amazon picture of the stencils look like the OEM...which is why I gave them a try...but not paying $26 for what I got.
I'd bet that ceramic coating will last a long time. I used NuFInish 'Better Than Wax Ceramic Coating' on my whole truck about six weeks ago. I did all the glass, too. So far, it's holding-up really well and was super fast and easy to apply. I agree, Rain-X standard treatment is a PITA to apply.
Got a couple parts swapped out this afternoon. The door hinge was first on the list. It was both easy and difficult at the same time. The bolts are not very easy to reach but I ended up getting them. I was concerned about how the door would hang on with just one upper hinge so I put the jack under the end before starting.
Unbolting the old one. The tricky bolts were the two back ones on the cab side. The others were not bad. The far back one I had to get to between the door and fender, and the only way to do that was to have the two bolts on the door to hinge removed and then pull it back enough to get a socket, extension, and swivel in there. And try not to scratch up any paint. I enlisted my teenager son to help and pull on the bottom of the door. He also helped guide the socket onto the bolt head with the tip of his fingers. Teamwork makes the dreamwork.
Old one out and new one ready to go in.
New one installed. It feels much better...smoother and holds in the detents better at the two stop points. And does not make a groinking sound. I decided not to mess with painting it. Close enough to silver for me for an internalish door part, it has a zinc finish and we dont have road salt here. And being an aftermarket part, not sure if it will fail early on me, so we will see. Amazon.com
My other door hinges look somewhat similar to the drivers door. Some rust on the contacting edge of the cam and roller, but they dont sound bad or have the feel that the driver door did...that one certainly gets the most use. So I am going to leave the others along until they need replacing.
I also swapped out the drivers outside door handle. It was not broken, but getting loose feeling. Mainly the black insert in the back felt odd. Like it was on the way out. And the new one did not have that black insert at all. These were not OEM and yet the drivers side lasted nearly 7 years. The passenger side (with my wife's non gentle opening and closing of that door) has been replaced multiple times! haha
When I installed the lower hinge on my parts truck (just so the door could open/close decently, the p.o. had stripped a bunch of parts from it), I got the back bolts in, slowly, with a ratching box-end wrench...
Well...a week later and my el cheapo driver door handle now looks like this.
I have been doing a project to add a brick sidewalk along the driveway, so to keep the kiddos from walking in the dirt and mud the other night, I parked closer to the truck to give them room. The next day I noticed my door handle with the dent. I guess it is better it hit that and not the sheetmetal...
It is wet and cold today, but I wanted to get the oil changed. I was only at 7% on the OLM and at 6,172 miles since the last change, but it has been 8.5 months. My mileage has dropped a lot without the long daily commute and most of my business is pretty close to where I live.
I bring my own oil and filter and have a small drive through station I have used for years change it for me. Charge is $25, I dont get dirty or sore, dont have to drive to dispose of old oil, and it is much quicker.
This is just plain odd. I am 100% certain that this has not taken multiple hits, but now there are dents/ripples all along it. Not as deep as the first one I noticed. I suspected one of my kiddos opened my wife's Armada door and hit it, but I have been out there when they were getting in and out and know that it was not hit those time...and yet now there is something going on all along it. It is hard to see in the picture. I tried to line it up with a shadow and all the ripples are from the surface of the handle. This was a $17 cheapo from Amazon so maybe it is just really thin and something odd is going on with the surface? It's not like I even squeeze it to open since I just pull with my fingers hooked inside and dont have to touch the outside part. I am sending it back and I ordered a $32 Dorman brand one to try.
I did just find this though and ordered it also. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B3P5HBS/ The one review from last year says they are a fake. The listing states Genuine GM OEM part...so will see. Price seems a bit low, and if it is fake and not good, I will send them back.
They were $47.46 a couple days ago when I purchased them...now they show $70 unfortunately!
Interestingly the old handles I had taken off the truck had the black plastic insert on the inside of the handles just like these. I didn't hang on to the handle so not sure if in fact I had a set of OEM previously. Seems I had paid about $100 for the set of 4.
I got the drivers side door handle swapped out yesterday. Sent back the el cheapo one that was dented and the Dorman one I had bought before finding the OEM ones. The handle looks nice and new again. I didn't yet swap the passenger side. I will wait until my wife yanks that one in pieces again then swap it. haha
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