Looking at a 2016 sierra with 150k miles, the trans has been rebuilt, the lifters and cam replaced, and afm deleted all within the last 1k miles or so. Is this truck "bulletproofed" now that all of the common failure points have been replaced? Mileage is a little higher than I would prefer but I do like the idea that the trans, lifters, and afm have already been taken care of.
GavinY205
Bulletproofed? Hardly, but maybe.
Who did the transmission? Are they reputable?
Who did the motor? Are they reputable, or was it shade tree work?
Did they change ALL the parts necessary for a complete AFM delete, or just some?
Was a kit used from a company like Texas Speed? Was it tuned afterwards?
Can the seller produce receipts?
Who did the transmission? Are they reputable?
Who did the motor? Are they reputable, or was it shade tree work?
Did they change ALL the parts necessary for a complete AFM delete, or just some?
Was a kit used from a company like Texas Speed? Was it tuned afterwards?
Can the seller produce receipts?
Guy says he has the paperwork for all the work that was done. Lifetime warranty on parts replaced is what he says so I'm assuming the work was done at a decent shop but I will verify. Don't think it was tuned but I will ask, do you reccomend a specific tune? I'm not really familiar with any of the tuning stuff.
Like roorancher said bulletproof? Nothing is ever 100% guaranteed, does the rebuilt transmission come with a transferable warranty? Is the price right for a truck with 150k miles? I bought my 2014 6.2 with 91k and ended up rebuilding the engine 1k miles later but I bought my 08 6.2 with 150k and drove it another 100k. So you never know!
If you really want to know what is going on inside the engine and trans you will need to take oil samples and send them out for analysis. Sure you can pull the dip stick and look at fluid levels but the only way to really know with any degree of certainty what is going on inside the engine you have to analyze the oil.
The rest you have to check yourself... Get under the truck and pull the fill plug on the rear diff and stick your finger inside, check the color of the coolant if they did all the work they say they did it should be very orangey pink like new fluid. Get underneath and look how the truck has been taken care of and check for leaks on the rear main seal, axel/driveshaft input leaks these leaks usually make a big mess all over the diff housing, feel if the driveshaft is loose, brakes and discs look ok or grooved/worn out, and general look at the drivetrain.
Drive it and listen turn off the AC and radio and pay attention to all the sounds you can hear any vibrations. Let go of the steering wheel once cruising and see what happens. Turn everything on and use all the buttons. Look at all the seams where doors, fender, body panels, bed, tailgate all line up and look for odd gaping or spacing, look for over spray bondo work that was not sanded properly, and the list can go on for awhile of things you can check visually or without opening up something.
Hint on trucks sometimes when the bed has been replaced the painters do not 100% repaint the whole bed look for a different color in hard to reach spots on the bed to see if it has been replaced. It is very common when these are in a wreck that insurance pays for a replacement bed from a wrecked truck because they are OEM and usually fit exceptionally better than any other options.
The rest you have to check yourself... Get under the truck and pull the fill plug on the rear diff and stick your finger inside, check the color of the coolant if they did all the work they say they did it should be very orangey pink like new fluid. Get underneath and look how the truck has been taken care of and check for leaks on the rear main seal, axel/driveshaft input leaks these leaks usually make a big mess all over the diff housing, feel if the driveshaft is loose, brakes and discs look ok or grooved/worn out, and general look at the drivetrain.
Drive it and listen turn off the AC and radio and pay attention to all the sounds you can hear any vibrations. Let go of the steering wheel once cruising and see what happens. Turn everything on and use all the buttons. Look at all the seams where doors, fender, body panels, bed, tailgate all line up and look for odd gaping or spacing, look for over spray bondo work that was not sanded properly, and the list can go on for awhile of things you can check visually or without opening up something.
Hint on trucks sometimes when the bed has been replaced the painters do not 100% repaint the whole bed look for a different color in hard to reach spots on the bed to see if it has been replaced. It is very common when these are in a wreck that insurance pays for a replacement bed from a wrecked truck because they are OEM and usually fit exceptionally better than any other options.
Yes, I can definitely get you hooked up with a correct version programmer and a custom tune for that truck...
Now, it would have had to have been "tuned" to at least disable the AFM/DOD in the ECM and to also disable a couple of related trouble codes...
Do you have P0010 and/or P0011 codes triggered?? Is the check engine light on?? --- If no, then it has been tuned... to at least disable the AFM/DOD.. but who knows what else may have been touched...
So, you need to find out if it has been "tuned" or not already...
Let's see pics of all this paperwork he says he has, to see exactly what was or wasn't done...
Now, it would have had to have been "tuned" to at least disable the AFM/DOD in the ECM and to also disable a couple of related trouble codes...
Do you have P0010 and/or P0011 codes triggered?? Is the check engine light on?? --- If no, then it has been tuned... to at least disable the AFM/DOD.. but who knows what else may have been touched...
So, you need to find out if it has been "tuned" or not already...
Let's see pics of all this paperwork he says he has, to see exactly what was or wasn't done...
Bulletproofed? 
Also, if the truck wasn't tuned, it will most likely run like crap or at least throw codes after AFM delete.
Anyway..., 150K is nothing. I bought my 2016 with 179K miles freaking 5+ years ago and the only mechanical issue I've had is the transmission that went out at 224K a little over a year ago. Still even running the OEM AFM stuff in the engine, albeit disabled via LewTune.
Going on 238K now with many more to come.
Also, if the truck wasn't tuned, it will most likely run like crap or at least throw codes after AFM delete.Anyway..., 150K is nothing. I bought my 2016 with 179K miles freaking 5+ years ago and the only mechanical issue I've had is the transmission that went out at 224K a little over a year ago. Still even running the OEM AFM stuff in the engine, albeit disabled via LewTune.
Going on 238K now with many more to come.
If all that work was done properly and well, you really would only have to be mindful of rust, (if you're in the rust belt). The frame can rust through a lot faster than you'd think. Brake and fuel lines, and sheet metal, too.
Wasn't the so-called term "Bullet Proofed" coined by FORD owners and issues with their diesel engines.
Just like when someone says 'The truck has X problem. I have the part, just needs to be put on. 5 minute job.'
If it's so simple, why don't you just do it and you wouldn't have to mention it at all?
If it's so simple, why don't you just do it and you wouldn't have to mention it at all?
Should be able to get another 150k out of her if it was done by a reputable mechanic. It’s not a new truck but it’s not 70k either. Go for it.
I would have to see the paperwork on the transmission and lifter/cam repair. I’m always leary of the “freshly bulletproofed” trucks. I’m also curious about the mileage and asking price.
One of my biggest pet peeves when reading FS ads. 🤦♂️
My guess is one of the two:
1. Bought it broken and cheap. Fixed it and is flipping.
2. Ran out of money after the work.
In both cases the work may or may not be up to snuff and therefore the potential buyer better be aware and know what to look for and ask.
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