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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I added a pair of subs about a year ago and recently decided that the rest of the system needed an upgrade. It started as the bose system in my trail boss. I removed every factory speaker except the center console sub. The factory sub has been disconnected but is too big of a hassle right now to remove or replace and wire in with my other 2 subs.

Because this information is not easily able to be found online I want to share that the dash speakers and the rear door speakers are 4 ohm speakers. The front door speakers are 2 ohm. The dash speakers are the only ones that say "BOSE" on them. Not sure that means anything its just an observation. I did not measure the subs resistance level as I did not remove it. I could have tested the wires that ran to it but forgot about it before it was too late.

The major parts of the list is...

JL audio vxi 1000/1
JL audio vxi 800/8
JL audio fix 82
JL audio vxi hub
JL audio vxi btc
JL audio amp wiring kit
JL audio 10tw3 subs
Hertz 6.5" in all 4 doors
Hertz 3" in dash
Hertz tweeters on pillars
LLJ loopback harness

As most are aware there is very little room back there. I had to get creative with how I was going to mount 2 amps and a couple of other accessories. Under the rear seat is completely taken up with the sub box. After I removed the back seat and got to looking at it I decided that I needed to move some stuff around. Since I was going to install sound skins on the back wall and all door panels anyways I removed all the factory components from the back wall. I then installed the sound skins and took some measurements. I designed up some new brackets and cut them out of carbon fiber plate as I needed something as thin and rigid as possible. I wound up moving the power inverter over to the drivers side as there was a big empty space there and utilized the factory "amp rack" to mount the JL audio fix 82, vxi hub, and vxi-btc bluetooth adapter. Closer to the passenger side I found a good space to mount the fuse block.

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After that was squared away. I replaced all the door speakers and added sound skins to them as well.

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I found these aluminum tweeter pods on ebay and they didn't disappoint.

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I mounted the amps in the back seat storage pockets. I'm not going into a whole lot of detail about it because you just have to wing it on this one. Take some careful measurements and trim some of the plastic in the bottom of that storage pocket. Its not a fun job but not difficult either.

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Here are some adapter rings I cut for the new dash speakers.

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The use of the carbon fiber plate is nice, plus you have some very clean cuts on them. What did you use to cut out the brackets?

Are those tweeter pods not distracting on the pillars like that or do them being pointed at you really make a sound difference or something? Sort of looks goofy at first glance
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The use of the carbon fiber plate is nice, plus you have some very clean cuts on them. What did you use to cut out the brackets?

Are those tweeter pods not distracting on the pillars like that or do them being pointed at you really make a sound difference or something? Sort of looks goofy at first glance
To me the tweeters are in a perfect place and not in my line of sight. The one on the drivers side is visually inline with my registration sticker so I dont notice it at all. They were going to have to be mounted somewhere as all factory locations were used for other larger speakers. As far as the sound I had to reduce the gain on them compared to all other speakers as they are pointed right at your face and quite loud.

All the CF was cut on my home build cnc router using purpose made router bits. They look more like a burr than a router bit.

Rectangle Tints and shades Magenta Electric blue Pattern
 

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1999 Silverado ECSB 6.0
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Not a fan of tweeter pods but that is just my ocd lol everything else looks sick
 

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Your attn to detail, esp with the wiring is A+. Love it.

I always ran A- pillar tweets but used the windshield as a waveguide in the sense that it was the speaker itself rather than the tweets which can stick out in the system.

Every vehicle is different but our ears are most sensitive at 1K hz and up. That means even at 60* off axis to the center of your head you will still be able to locate the tweets. Even if you knock them down 3 dB and add/subtract time alignment. IME, it was matching the slope of the low pass crossover (18 dB/oct to sound slightly out of phase) of the tweets to the high pass of the mids.

So it takes a lot of trial and error and fine tuning. Good luck.
 

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Every vehicle is different but our ears are most sensitive at 1K hz and up. That means even at 60* off axis to the center of your head you will still be able to locate the tweets. Even if you knock them down 3 dB and add/subtract time alignment. IME, it was matching the slope of the low pass crossover (18 dB/oct to sound slightly out of phase) of the tweets to the high pass of the mids.
I hope someone understands that makes me feel like an idiot.. lol

Man that carbon work is just great, that's a neat bit too. I never considered a burr style bit being able to give a finish like that on carbon. 100% keeping that in mind for a car project I am starting on. Where do you buy your sheets from?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I hope someone understands that makes me feel like an idiot.. lol

Man that carbon work is just great, that's a neat bit too. I never considered a burr style bit being able to give a finish like that on carbon. 100% keeping that in mind for a car project I am starting on. Where do you buy your sheets from?
I got them on Amazon. That one is 3 x 400 x 500mm in a matte finish and it was $99. They have gloss as well but I don't prefer it as much. Its super rigid, even the small pieces hardly flex at all.

The bits leave a super crispy edge. Zero cleanup or secondary process needed to clean the part up. Just be aware though that the dust is SUPER bad for you so take the necessary precautions.
 

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Yes for sure! I used to lay prepreg and fiberglass then sand it. Full respirators and suits required for that process.

I was considering ordering some kilmat for mine. How do you like that sound skin?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yes for sure! I used to lay prepreg and fiberglass then sand it. Full respirators and suits required for that process.

I was considering ordering some kilmat for mine. How do you like that sound skin?
The last time I did sound deadening in a vehicle it was dynamat and that was 10+ years ago. I dont have a lot to compare it to but it did make a huge difference in the noise inside the cab driving down the road. It also knocked out 2 rattles I had going on with the front door panels. I mainly chose it though because they were precut for the doors and that eliminated quite a bit of hassle for me. If I ever pull the headliner I will be adding it there as well.
 
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