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I've been looking high and low to find the mod for the all on. I tired the NBS all on mod but wouldn't work on my 2013.
I did see that there were a few more How To's already but none being done like this so I figured it was worth posting.

1) Head to your local RadioShack for Diode PN 1N4004 price is around $1.00.

2) Jump the diode from either fuse 30 or 31(Hi headlamp fuses) to the foglamp relay.

3) Enjoy your new lighting setup!!

20131107_120557.jpg

20131107_120619.jpg

20131107_120657.jpg


I will post pictures as the suns going down of my truck with this mod done.
 

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LOWS WITH FOGS ON
Lows and Fogs.jpg


HIGHS/LOWS AND FOGS ON
HighsLows and Fogs.jpg


^ If your sitting in the truck looking forward it will be the top left hand post on the relay and I used the rear post on the fuse.

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It's been done like that for years now......

All how to's are at an own risk mod.

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hey its your truck, i just know alot about electronics and i would use a relay like that fog light drl mod to keep from causing an issue. Just run the power side like you found to a relay, swap your fog light pins, and then you are completly isolated and will never have a melt down.
 

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I am very interested in finding out if this will work long term with no heat issues. Out here it gets really dark and having the hi beams AND fog lights is a BIG plus. I know on my 99 there was a relay assembly you could buy for about $35, I think. Thanks for passing this one along. It cheaper and is way easier.
 

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djlove said:
I use the fog light relay set up to throw my DRLS over to my parking lights, You could do the same thing with your High beams to fogs for alot less than 35 bones.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/12-VOLT-5-PIN-S ... e6&vxp=mtr
Thanks. In retrospect, I believe it was only to have the hi AND low beams on at once. The fog lights were toasted, lol. It's been a while.....
 

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djlove said:
i still think your gonna heat something up if you throw the fog lights on with the highs, thats a small diode.
Then maybe you can draw up a HOW-TO so that we can do it right?

I mean if it's gonna cause a heat issue like you speak of why not take the time to help out the rest of us instead of just adding your .02¢ worth.
 

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allready copied the how:

How to Wire your Fog Light to be your DRL's

This same set up but instead of the hot side of DRL as a trigger you just stick the red wire in the positive side the OP originally found. They way it is done with a diode I believe will cause heat when both switches are grounded in the dash and it also is stealing power from the highs to feed the fogs. That means your giving less power to highs which will shorten the life span and less power to the fogs until you turn the fog light switch on and then you are putting too much power to the fogs.

They are two separate circuits and albeit a diode in theory should honor that, the best way is to keep them completely isolated using a relay trigger.

Either way, good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Nope truck is 2013 NNBS. Did you do the mod right and follow the pictures as they look?

Edit:
Are you talking about the post above yours that djlove posted?

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Ok just trying to keep this thread on track. I don't want anybody to get confused later on down the road.

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mag11SGM said:
Ok just trying to keep this thread on track. I don't want anybody to get confused later on down the road.

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One question, is a 2012 and 2013 the same?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I would believe they would be but can't give a for sure yes or no.

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This might just work on my 14 --- replaced the fogs with some off road lights that are brutal! Light Cannons----heat will not be an issue because of the low draw being it is a LED. Both lights draw less than 5 amps...
 

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Be sure to check if you are "legal" in your state/province, with this configuration. Some jurisdictions have laws that limit the number of "front facing" lights that can be on while driving.
 
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