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Rear Diff exploded... I think..

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4.7K views 16 replies 7 participants last post by  ThetaTauManOB163  
#1 ·
Hey everyone, Couple questions here. Ive done some searching and have read a lot. but still unclear.

I've got a 2000 Sierra Reg cab/ Short box Stepside with the GT4 3:73 Rear diff with the G80 locker and rear disc brakes. Truck seemed to be acting fine until a couple days ago when I backed out of my driveway and turned the wheels in reverse. The rear end seemed to bind up and hop a little, then when I put the truck in drive and moved forward I was met with a loud CLANK and then everything seemed ok. I came home and started researching and read that the fluid being bad can cause issues with the G80 so I changed the fluid using the drain plug (first mistake - I believe if I would have removed the cover I would have seen the telltale signs of something going wrong). After fluid change, headed to the mall to test, performed forward and reverse tests, and still binding and clanking going from reverse to drive, however after my last backup and go forward test, again a loud clank, then RPM's raised for a second then another clank and tires squealing as it "kicked in"... I immediately headed for home, rear end was making some shcwink,shcwink,schwink noises as I limped home, but when I turned down my street and headed for my house, I stepped on the the gas and speedo went up to 60mph but no forward momentum... let the truck coast into my driveway and while sitting in my driveway in Drive stopped, speedo was showing around 30mph, no connection to the rear end at all. So here I am today. I have not ripped the rear diff cover off yet as it is obviously not going to be good in there anyway.

now, my issue is, this truck is just a "toy" and sees maybe 1000 miles a year, I don't want to be getting into a huge repair bill if at all possible. I did a quick search and found a regular 3:73 open diff with drum brakes for $150. But I'm not sure if I can remove the drums and swap my discs onto it. Or do I look at getting the diff rebuilt for a bunch of $$$ knowing the G80's are not rated well to begin with. What would you guys suggest?
 
#4 ·
G80 strikes again! Exact same story with a guy I work with. He spent $1200 having his fixed. Sounds like open is the way to go. Otherwise you can pick up a $200 lunchbox locker for the new axle. Or else a new carrier and gears if you want to keep what you have but plan on at least $1000 for that.
 
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#6 ·
tzfbird said:
Or else a new carrier and gears if you want to keep what you have but plan on at least $1000 for that.
Yeah I am really not prepared to spend that kind of money right now. I only spent $4000 on the whole truck lol. Sounds like I'll probably be swapping in an open axle. I have looked up aftermarket drop in lockers, but really, I don't even care if I have a locker, I just thought that if the truck came with one that it would be good to keep it that way.
 
#7 ·
Local shop quoted me anywhere betwen $1000 and $2000 without seeing it, depending on howm uch went wrong inside there. I think I'm just gonna look for a used one. Now I just need to find out what years they fit from, and if drums and discs are interchangeable. Anyone have that kind of knowledge?
 
#9 ·
i wished theyd never used the Gov-bomb in the first place.. its scrap from the beginning

all 10 bolt rears will work. the differences are the older they get, they switch to 1/2" studs. and the different widths on the spring perches. you can get a used axle for a salvage yard for barely a song and dance. $2000 is way to expensive in my book.. you can put all new brakes on a 10 bolt, new u-joint, fluid, seals, and new u-bolts for under $500... not sure what the rest of the cost is for.. install, is 4 - u bolts, hook up brakes and a drive shaft.
 
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#10 ·
Local wrecker that I've dealt with for years has the exact same rear end with a G80 (grrrr) and want's $400 for it complete. Swears it's a good rear end because he personally drove the truck. Im a little leary with it being a G80, but he says most of them were. He's gonna open the cover and take a look just for my piece of mind, but I'll likely go for it if he says it looks ok in there.
 
#11 ·
They are very easy to test if installed in an axle - just grab one wheel and spin it real quick (while someone holds the other side still) - Should lock and force the torque to the opposite side. If your wheel just spins and spins... your either not spinning it fast enough... or its broke.
 
#12 ·
lcann25 said:
Local wrecker that I've dealt with for years has the exact same rear end with a G80 (grrrr) and want's $400 for it complete. Swears it's a good rear end because he personally drove the truck. Im a little leary with it being a G80, but he says most of them were. He's gonna open the cover and take a look just for my piece of mind, but I'll likely go for it if he says it looks ok in there.
Go for it. There are hundreds of thousands of trouble free G80 equipped rear differentials running the roads every day.
The G80 is generally problem free unless abused.
 
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#13 ·
Silvery13 said:
The G80 is generally problem free unless abused.
Is there a definition for abuse of a G80? I have an open differential and want a limited slip but because of their weakness I'll be spedning more for something that does not result in destruction with normal or heavy use. By using a swing weight operation it will eventually end up destroyed with normal use but might just take longer on vehicles that don't see snow/ice which allow the tire which looses traction to spin up quickly before the differential can lock-up.
 
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#14 ·
The problem with the G80 is not really snow or mud... It's when you use it on high traction surface, like trying to do a burnout.

I live where we have snow on the ground for 5 months, and never seen a destroyed G80 here...
It's designed to be used on low traction surface with gentle power to engage it...
 
#16 ·
Installed the replacement rear end this weekend and the truck is now back up and running perfectly. Had a good look inside the new rear end when I pulled the cover off and it looks very good, no obvious wear or anything, so we shall see how this one does. Thanks to all who contributed!
 
#17 ·
tzfbird said:
Silvery13 said:
The G80 is generally problem free unless abused.
Is there a definition for abuse of a G80? I have an open differential and want a limited slip but because of their weakness I'll be spedning more for something that does not result in destruction with normal or heavy use.
The G80, particularly the clutches, doesn't like heat. At curb you can split-mu WOT launches until you run out of gas before it will fail. As long as you keep the fluid moving around and circulating around the clutches. Axle lube has a finite temperature it can reach; but the clutches generate [friction] heat with each engagement and need to be cooled. (not after each engagement - but somewhat periodically)

"But I have a truck, I do truck stuff, with shit in the bed." - No problem - weigh just increases traction, that increases friction - the G80 will handle it - again - just need to make sure the clutches get cool.

You asked for abuse - don't do burn out after burn out tied up to a trailer, for hours on end and you'll be fine. Normal to heavy use will be fine and a G80 will last a long time. The G80 has fuse disk, that if does happen to fail, reverts the diff to open. Doesn't strand you on the side of the road having to get a tow truck and an immediate repair cost. You can drive on it indefinitely if need be.
tzfbird said:
By using a swing weight operation it will eventually end up destroyed with normal use but might just take longer on vehicles that don't see snow/ice which allow the tire which looses traction to spin up quickly before the differential can lock-up..
Sure you can "grenade" the reaction block or cam-plate - but that usually has a requirement of the truck being airborne, or some other 'hold my beer moment'...

In a truck - I'd stand by it over a limited slip.
 
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