Hi folks, great forum!
I have a 2004 Chevy Silverado 1500 Z71 with 180,000 miles. It has a no crank, no start condition. I have replaced the ignition switch thinking that was the issue, but it still has the same problem.
I have had intermittent minor electrical issues for some time now. Sometimes the blower would stop working. Other times the radio would stay on after the key was removed and I opened the driver side door.
I have recently replaced the alternator, battery, knock sensors and spark plugs. Most of the new issues that recently popped up happened after I replaced the knock sensors under the intake. I had to pull up quite a bit of hardware to get to the sensors. I also did a lot cleaning and I probably got cleaner or water somewhere it shouldn't go like the PCM.
Anyway, since the knock sensor replacement, I started having a hard starting condition where the engine would start but wouldn't come up to idle unless I pumped the accelerator to about 2000 rpm. Then it would run great. Next day, same thing. It threw various ambiguous codes but nothing consistent. Then I narrowed it down to the alternator and had it tested. Sure enough, it was bad. But the battery had also been damaged. So I replaced them both.
It ran fine for weeks then one day, no crank, no start. After weeks of research, reviewing wiring diagrams and testing it seemed that the igniton switch was acting intermittently, so I replaced it. Two weeks go by without any problems then bloop! One morning, no start, no crank.
I've been able to isolate the problem to the crank relay circuit. I can jump out the crank relay and the engine cranks and even starts when the key is in the run position.
I do not have power to the small yellow wire at the top of the key cylinder housing circuit while the key is in start or run, whereas I did before. I also do not have power at the crank fuse either.
I have checked many fuse and changed a few around with no success.
Oh, another weird thing that is happening is the blower doesn't come on when the key is in the run or accessory position.
Two components I still need to look at are the Neutral Safety switch and the PCM.
Does anyone know a way to bypass the NSS or isolate the circuit in order to take the switch out of the circuit and therefore isolate the component?
Are there easier ways to check the PCM wiring without tearing everything apart?
I am stuck at this point and could use some real good advice, thanks!
I have a 2004 Chevy Silverado 1500 Z71 with 180,000 miles. It has a no crank, no start condition. I have replaced the ignition switch thinking that was the issue, but it still has the same problem.
I have had intermittent minor electrical issues for some time now. Sometimes the blower would stop working. Other times the radio would stay on after the key was removed and I opened the driver side door.
I have recently replaced the alternator, battery, knock sensors and spark plugs. Most of the new issues that recently popped up happened after I replaced the knock sensors under the intake. I had to pull up quite a bit of hardware to get to the sensors. I also did a lot cleaning and I probably got cleaner or water somewhere it shouldn't go like the PCM.
Anyway, since the knock sensor replacement, I started having a hard starting condition where the engine would start but wouldn't come up to idle unless I pumped the accelerator to about 2000 rpm. Then it would run great. Next day, same thing. It threw various ambiguous codes but nothing consistent. Then I narrowed it down to the alternator and had it tested. Sure enough, it was bad. But the battery had also been damaged. So I replaced them both.
It ran fine for weeks then one day, no crank, no start. After weeks of research, reviewing wiring diagrams and testing it seemed that the igniton switch was acting intermittently, so I replaced it. Two weeks go by without any problems then bloop! One morning, no start, no crank.
I've been able to isolate the problem to the crank relay circuit. I can jump out the crank relay and the engine cranks and even starts when the key is in the run position.
I do not have power to the small yellow wire at the top of the key cylinder housing circuit while the key is in start or run, whereas I did before. I also do not have power at the crank fuse either.
I have checked many fuse and changed a few around with no success.
Oh, another weird thing that is happening is the blower doesn't come on when the key is in the run or accessory position.
Two components I still need to look at are the Neutral Safety switch and the PCM.
Does anyone know a way to bypass the NSS or isolate the circuit in order to take the switch out of the circuit and therefore isolate the component?
Are there easier ways to check the PCM wiring without tearing everything apart?
I am stuck at this point and could use some real good advice, thanks!
