Yep, it bit my 2019 LD with 25K on the clock. Just a lazy Saturday driving down the freeway & the check engine light came on. Put it on my scan tool when I got home & saw the description for this unfamiliar code. After 5 minutes of interweb research; sighed & said to myself "oh crap".
My scan tool has bi-directional control, so I went in & toggled the solenoid on/off & saw no change in the pressure reading. Checked it again the next day (cold) & it was working. Got it good & hot after a drive and it wasn't working. That was all I needed to see: the solenoid was intermittent.
Debated taking it to the shop vs. DIY. Watched some utube vids & decided I could do this, but it wasn't going to be easy nor quick. Fortunately my truck is not my DD, so it could be down for an extended period.
Visited my local Chevy dealer & ordered parts. All in was under $500 for the pump, seals, new belts, crank bolt, coolant, etc. Spent another $700 @ Harbor Freight/Amazon for a trans jack, coolant vacuum, torque angle wrench, bunjee chords, crank pulley puller/press tools, flywheel holder, and underhood light.
Tore it down, starting with the underside parts first: xmember, steering rack, front axle, starter. The rack really needs to come out - don't try to loosen it & work around it. Then topside starting with vacuuming the coolant out. Eventually got the alternator, bracket, water pump housing, vacuum pump, and fans out. Minimal coolant spilled, this was a focus for me: I hate mopping coolant off the floor. Amazon crank puller worked fine, and I got the bolt loosened with my air impact without locking the crank. Finally got to the timing cover & oil pan. The oil pan is heavier than it looks.
I did tear the oil pump apart - mechanically it looked fine. It was just that darn solenoid (maybe, maybe not)
Spent alot of time removing the old sealer & cleaning the machined gasket surface - don't skip this step.
I got the three-bond adhesive sealer called out by GM. That stuff is a bear to squeeze out with a caulk gun - my arms were shaking finishing up the oil pan!
Reassembly went reasonably smooth, but I did roll the front axle off the jack - but didn't damage it. The POS Amazon flywheel locking tool didn't fit well, so I chopped it up & re-welded it to engage the teeth on the flywheel better. Putting the big torque & angle on the crank pulley bolt was a bear, but got it done with the help of a buddy.
When I got it all back together, I cranked it in Clear Flood Mode to build up as much oil in the pump as I could with out burning up the starter. It's been running for a few weeks now; no return of the code. I am getting some pump whine; but it whined with the old pump so who knows...
So that's my saga. Take lots of pics, too! Good luck to those who DIY as well!
Updated Sept 2025:
I ended up doing this job again. Seems I did something wrong the first time or I got a bad pump (OEM). Either way, the P06DD came back within a few miles. I parked the truck & bought a 2025 until I could get to it, which was a few weeks ago.
After contemplating what I did the first time; I decided to do three things different the second go round:
1. Pump installation: The GM service manual says when installing a new pump, you need to put "upward pressure on the pump while torqueing the bolts". I knew this the first time, but I didn't notice any movement when I torqued the bolts down, so I thought I was good. This time I got a buddy to torque the bolts topside while I laid under the truck putting moderate upward pressure on the pump.
2. Oil Filter: I used the new PF63 with more holes in the baseplate vs. the old one with 5 holes.
3. Pump Prime: The first time I did prime in clear flood mode a couple times & called it good. The second time I removed all the plugs (to not fight compression) and did multiple clear flood mode cranks. When I thought it was good, I did it again, lol.
I've run a tank of gas thru it and it seems all good. There's way less whine (allllmost none) coming from the pump. Maybe this will help someone down the road.
My scan tool has bi-directional control, so I went in & toggled the solenoid on/off & saw no change in the pressure reading. Checked it again the next day (cold) & it was working. Got it good & hot after a drive and it wasn't working. That was all I needed to see: the solenoid was intermittent.
Debated taking it to the shop vs. DIY. Watched some utube vids & decided I could do this, but it wasn't going to be easy nor quick. Fortunately my truck is not my DD, so it could be down for an extended period.
Visited my local Chevy dealer & ordered parts. All in was under $500 for the pump, seals, new belts, crank bolt, coolant, etc. Spent another $700 @ Harbor Freight/Amazon for a trans jack, coolant vacuum, torque angle wrench, bunjee chords, crank pulley puller/press tools, flywheel holder, and underhood light.
Tore it down, starting with the underside parts first: xmember, steering rack, front axle, starter. The rack really needs to come out - don't try to loosen it & work around it. Then topside starting with vacuuming the coolant out. Eventually got the alternator, bracket, water pump housing, vacuum pump, and fans out. Minimal coolant spilled, this was a focus for me: I hate mopping coolant off the floor. Amazon crank puller worked fine, and I got the bolt loosened with my air impact without locking the crank. Finally got to the timing cover & oil pan. The oil pan is heavier than it looks.
I did tear the oil pump apart - mechanically it looked fine. It was just that darn solenoid (maybe, maybe not)
Spent alot of time removing the old sealer & cleaning the machined gasket surface - don't skip this step.
I got the three-bond adhesive sealer called out by GM. That stuff is a bear to squeeze out with a caulk gun - my arms were shaking finishing up the oil pan!
Reassembly went reasonably smooth, but I did roll the front axle off the jack - but didn't damage it. The POS Amazon flywheel locking tool didn't fit well, so I chopped it up & re-welded it to engage the teeth on the flywheel better. Putting the big torque & angle on the crank pulley bolt was a bear, but got it done with the help of a buddy.
When I got it all back together, I cranked it in Clear Flood Mode to build up as much oil in the pump as I could with out burning up the starter. It's been running for a few weeks now; no return of the code. I am getting some pump whine; but it whined with the old pump so who knows...
So that's my saga. Take lots of pics, too! Good luck to those who DIY as well!
Updated Sept 2025:
I ended up doing this job again. Seems I did something wrong the first time or I got a bad pump (OEM). Either way, the P06DD came back within a few miles. I parked the truck & bought a 2025 until I could get to it, which was a few weeks ago.
After contemplating what I did the first time; I decided to do three things different the second go round:
1. Pump installation: The GM service manual says when installing a new pump, you need to put "upward pressure on the pump while torqueing the bolts". I knew this the first time, but I didn't notice any movement when I torqued the bolts down, so I thought I was good. This time I got a buddy to torque the bolts topside while I laid under the truck putting moderate upward pressure on the pump.
2. Oil Filter: I used the new PF63 with more holes in the baseplate vs. the old one with 5 holes.
3. Pump Prime: The first time I did prime in clear flood mode a couple times & called it good. The second time I removed all the plugs (to not fight compression) and did multiple clear flood mode cranks. When I thought it was good, I did it again, lol.
I've run a tank of gas thru it and it seems all good. There's way less whine (allllmost none) coming from the pump. Maybe this will help someone down the road.
