[Vortec Lover]

This seems to be a recurring issue/topic with many owners these days. This is my 2nd Vortec 5.3 since 2000. Bought a 1500 Sierra in 2000, put 349k on the clock before I sold it. Never had ANY major issues. Used Only synthetic oil (Pennzoil synthetic 5w30) every 3k miles. Never a sludge problem.
Bought a used 2005 Silverado 1500. 5.3L with 206k on the clock. Now has 279k. Uses a qt. oil every 2000 miles. Pulled valve covers, major sludge. Bore scoped oil pan, sludge. There IS. NOT a engine oil cleaner that will begin to touch this. Very simple solution, pull valve covers, remove all visible sludge until shiny clean. Remove intake, replace knock sensors, remove valley pan and remove all visible sludge until shiny clean. Now, remove oil pan, remove all sludge in pan until shiny clean. Remove pickup tube clean and install new proper "O'" ring. Thoroughly clean all surfaces when installing new gaskets. New filter, 6 qts. of Pennzoil Ultra Synthetic. Check for leaks. Replace filter after 500 miles. Change oil and filter at 1000 miles. I am VERY confident this will Eliminate the sludge issue permanently! All labor indicated can be accomplished in 8 hrs. with a laborer/helper.
For those out there that have a sludge problem you will be dumping bottle after bottle of engine cleaner and multiple multiple oil changes and still not get all the sludge out. Anyone that has work on the internals of an old engine knows how much solvent and elbow grease it takes to manually remove this crud
Comments welcome.

 

[davester3500]

Perhaps you can explain how this sludge causes the engine to use oil? The only spot where I can see it can, is the valve covers, if the sludge buildup somehow causes more oil to go up the pcv lines and then into the engine...

The rest of the work does...what? Other than look nice, and prevent the synthetic oil from potentially breaking it free and clogging up stuff.

 

[Welcher774]

Many shops have experienced success with BG products engine dynamic. For removing sludge, then run rinse oil afterwards. BG products are not sold over the counter only to authorized shops. BG Dynamic Engine Cleaner

on the site there is a dealer locator bgfindashop.com

 

[Azcheby]

Did yo have sludge issues with the 2000 with 349k? if not how would you explain the newer one with sludge issues? Just curious as Ive never had such issues in the 200+ well used, rode hard and put away wet vehicles Ive owned.

 

[Azcheby]

BTW, Im not knocking your oil or otherwise. Just curious. I know Toyotas had issues with sludging some years ago in some of the Camrys and corollas.

 

[Walkers]

Many shops have experienced success with BG products engine dynamic. For removing sludge, then run rinse oil afterwards. BG products are not sold over the counter only to authorized shops. BG Dynamic Engine Cleaner

on the site there is a dealer locator bgfindashop.com

BG are about the only chemical products that I have found to work as advertised! Also the only chemical that has ever fixed a mechanical pr for me (glazed PS pump vanes)

 

[Walkers]

Waste of time really. The sludge doesn’t really hurt anything in the valve heads and pan. Personally, I would run a really good detergent oil and call it a day. The 05 that uses a qt is more likely related to the valve cover than sludge in the pan. Pull the valve covers, replace the DS cover with the updated version, wash out the PS cover, new gaskets and grommets and you will likely be using a lot less oil.

 

[_Nguyen]

Can't you eliminate this issue with oil catch can, and dumping seafoam in your oil?

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[Vortec Lover]

Can't say that excess accumulation of sludge is causing oil consumption. It certainly is not dramatic especially by today's engine standards of consumption !
The sludge doesn't belong there it's as simple as that. It performs no useful function. In fact quite the opposite. Sludge is one of the main culprits of low oil pressure AND noisy valve train. Do you think both of these maladies contribute to long engine life? After I remove the visible sludge as stated, any remaining unseen or inaccessible will easily be removed over time by the synthetic oil and deposited in the filter. Nothing will be clogging any thing up. Fortunately GM designed adequate oil passages and powerful enough oil pumps to deal with any miniscule sludge remaining. Oh, and no I don't worry about any old gasket leaking because the sludge is gone !

 

[Vortec Lover]

Can't you eliminate this issue with oil catch can, and dumping seafoam in your oil?

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I believe catch cans were designed to " prevent" sludge buildup Not remove it once it exists.

 

[Vortec Lover]

Waste of time really. The sludge doesn’t really hurt anything in the valve heads and pan. Personally, I would run a really good detergent oil and call it a day. The 05 that uses a qt is more likely related to the valve cover than sludge in the pan. Pull the valve covers, replace the DS cover with the updated version, wash out the PS cover, new gaskets and grommets and you will likely be using a lot less oil.

Not worried about the oil consumption really. Many of today's modern motors wish they consumed as Little as mine !
As far as the sludge not being a problem I couldn't disagree more. Excessive sludge is a known culprit of low oil pressure and noisy valve trains. Noisy valve trains usually a sign of poor oil pressure. Is a noisy valve train instantly destroyed, probably not. Is a rod knocking instantly destroyed, most likely.
Sludge is not your motors friend just like clogged arteries are not your heart's friend . No difference.

 

[Vortec Lover]

BTW, Im not knocking your oil or otherwise. Just curious. I know Toyotas had issues with sludging some years ago in some of the Camrys and corollas.

Many car manufacturers today are touting the extended oil change intervals. The cleaning detergents don't last that long in many oil formulations, end result Sludge. Talk to knowledgeable Toyota Lexus mechanics and they will tell you 5k max and with a good synthetic.....if you want your engine to last !

 

[Vortec Lover]

Did yo have sludge issues with the 2000 with 349k? if not how would you explain the newer one with sludge issues? Just curious as Ive never had such issues in the 200+ well used, rode hard and put away wet vehicles Ive owned.

As I stated I bought the 2000 Sierra new and maintained it my self with Proper oil and change intervals.
Bought the 2005 Silverado used and it was poorly maintained by previous owners.

 

[davester3500]

Can't say that excess accumulation of sludge is causing oil consumption. It certainly is not dramatic especially by today's engine standards of consumption !
The sludge doesn't belong there it's as simple as that. It performs no useful function. In fact quite the opposite. Sludge is one of the main culprits of low oil pressure AND noisy valve train. Do you think both of these maladies contribute to long engine life? After I remove the visible sludge as stated, any remaining unseen or inaccessible will easily be removed over time by the synthetic oil and deposited in the filter. Nothing will be clogging any thing up. Fortunately GM designed adequate oil passages and powerful enough oil pumps to deal with any miniscule sludge remaining. Oh, and no I don't worry about any old gasket leaking because the sludge is gone !

But the sludge you are removing isn't the sludge causing low oil pressure and/or noisy valve train. The sludge you are removing, is sludge from after the oil has been "used" by the engine, and is primarily just running back to the sump to be used again.

You would need to hot-tank the engine block to clean out the internal oil passages and perhaps clean the lifters and inside of the pushrods, that sort of thing, you know, clean out where there actually is pressurized oil. Cleaning the inside of the valve covers, top of the heads, inside the oil pan, that all has ZERO effect on oil pressure and/or valvetrain noise and/or oil use.

 

[Vortec Lover]

But the sludge you are removing isn't the sludge causing low oil pressure and/or noisy valve train. The sludge you are removing, is sludge from after the oil has been "used" by the engine, and is primarily just running back to the sump to be used again.

You would need to hot-tank the engine block to clean out the internal oil passages and perhaps clean the lifters and inside of the pushrods, that sort of thing, you know, clean out where there actually is pressurized oil. Cleaning the inside of the valve covers, top of the heads, inside the oil pan, that all has ZERO effect on oil pressure and/or valvetrain noise and/or oil use.

I would agree with you IF I had a low pressure issue...I don't yet. All the residual sludge I am seeing may contribute to clogging oil passages, push rods, lifters, etc., If left to contaminate these items. Best course of action at this point remove it before it does create a problem. This is a preventative maintenance performance Not a repair issue.

 

[_Nguyen]

Many car manufacturers today are touting the extended oil change intervals. The cleaning detergents don't last that long in many oil formulations, end result Sludge. Talk to knowledgeable Toyota Lexus mechanics and they will tell you 5k max and with a good synthetic.....if you want your engine to last !

So what if amsoil says 25k miles and the 10k mile oil they sell? Don't trust the 10k or 25k?

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[Vortec Lover]

So what if amsoil says 25k miles and the 10k mile oil they sell? Don't trust the 10k or 25k?

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I don't care what Amsoil, Royal purple, Redline, Mobil1 says they are guaranteeing. If a problem occurs that may be oil related how difficult do you think it would be for you to prove it and have the oil manufacturer pay for your repairs ?
I look at oil changes this way....in the scheme of things oil change is cheap, very cheap ! It is also Thee most important service you can do to your vehicle. Do it and do it often !

 

[davester3500]

I would agree with you IF I had a low pressure issue...I don't yet. All the residual sludge I am seeing may contribute to clogging oil passages, push rods, lifters, etc., If left to contaminate these items. Best course of action at this point remove it before it does create a problem. This is a preventative maintenance performance Not a repair issue.

Again, the sludge you are removing is AFTER all those points you mention, and if it dislodges, it winds up in the oil pan, and then MAYBE gets sucked up in the oil pump, and then caught in the filter.

 

[_Nguyen]

I don't care what Amsoil, Royal purple, Redline, Mobil1 says they are guaranteeing. If a problem occurs that may be oil related how difficult do you think it would be for you to prove it and have the oil manufacturer pay for your repairs ?
I look at oil changes this way....in the scheme of things oil change is cheap, very cheap ! It is also Thee most important service you can do to your vehicle. Do it and do it often !

Yeah I see where you're coming from. I was watching a video from this mechanic page breaking down a Toyota oil change manufacturer requirement. Yota says change oil every 10k or + miles with * their oil rated at 5k* or any other oil rated at 5k. (* I think thats what it states).
Any way, guy did the experiment and tore down the motor and explained all the wear on each internal part showing yota is setting you up for failure.

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[Walkers]

Not worried about the oil consumption really. Many of today's modern motors wish they consumed as Little as mine !
As far as the sludge not being a problem I couldn't disagree more. Excessive sludge is a known culprit of low oil pressure and noisy valve trains. Noisy valve trains usually a sign of poor oil pressure. Is a noisy valve train instantly destroyed, probably not. Is a rod knocking instantly destroyed, most likely.
Sludge is not your motors friend just like clogged arteries are not your heart's friend . No difference.

Well, I think you have been reading too much advertising, and misapplying it to your situation, unless you can explain how you think some gloppy oil deposits in the low spots on top of your heads can remotely affect the pressurized portion of the oil system.