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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2009 silverado 1500 crew cab, stock headunit, non bose, LT trim.

Recently bought some 2020 factory front and rear door speakers from a member to replace the two rear ones since they were done for. The stock 2020 had 6x9 in the front so that doesn't work in mine. Thought I could make it but its more custom than I would like to do.

A long while back I was quoted a list of things from crutch field to the tune of $1400 or so. But I remember talking with several people and it seemed to be unanimous in favor of a different amp and headunit than what is listed below.

Now for the actual question. Can someone explain it to me like I am 5.

What do I need to be looking for when buying a headunit and speakers? RMS, frequency, ohm, does the cone material matter?
At what point do I need to get an amp, only when adding subs?
If I wanted to do it in stages should I do the HU first or all of the door speakers first?
different tweeters needed?

here are the specs on the infinity kappas above

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The first number that is important that comes to mind is the price...

All of what you said matters except for cone material. I don't think you will really notice the difference.
You can get an amp whenever. Normally you either get one large amp to power everything or one big amp for all the door speakers and one small one for the subs. Amps can be used for both just depends on what you want. Amp is only needed for subs.
In stages I would do HU first.
Different tweeters not needed only if you want them.
 

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2015 Silverado LT Texas Edition
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The first number that is important that comes to mind is the price...

All of what you said matters except for cone material. I don't think you will really notice the difference.
You can get an amp whenever. Normally you either get one large amp to power everything or one big amp for all the door speakers and one small one for the subs. Amps can be used for both just depends on what you want. Amp is only needed for subs.
In stages I would do HU first.
Different tweeters not needed only if you want them.
Definitely HU first.....And I have a little Kicker Key Amp with no sub, and it's more than enough; but you and Brad are both a lot younger than me.
 

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At the least, you should PLAN out the entire system before you buy anything. It helps to plan everything out, and see where any problems may come up before spending money, and then spending what should only be a little more the first time. Personally, I also like to overdue things, and plan out a system that would be too big for you. It may seem like a waste of time, but that way you know your options, and you can figure out things like wire size or connectors that can be bought slightly bigger to plan ahead just in case.

What drove you toward this head unit? Not trying to talk you out of it, just want to make sure it has all the features and options you want. At the least what I would do, is go to the manufacturer website, and check out models above and below what you have listed; i.e. see if there's a feature that's worth paying an extra $50 for now. If you are set on the headset..

Amp and speaker power ratings are in watts @ ohms. How much power with how much resistance. Speaker manufacturers list those numbers in two ways: RMS and PEAK. I see this wrong way too often: PEAK is what the speakers can handle full out in short bursts. RMS (in short) is what the recommended continuous power rating. RMS is what 95+ of people should focus on, because that's what the manufacturer says is right, and that's the easiest thing to do. If you match up the amp and speaker at the same OHM rating and within 10% of wattage, you can't go wrong.

I don't think those speakers will match up well with that amp. Those speakers are 2.5 ohm (resistance) and the amp is 4 ohms. That won't be 75 watts. Generally almost all aftermarket speakers (non-sub) are 4 ohm rated. Those 2.5 ohm speakers are designed to run with a factory head unit (which is usually something odd like that).

I personally prefer components. They let you dial in that mid or high range for each set when a head unit only allows you to do it for entire system.
For that same price point (and what matches up with that amp), I would recommend:
Hertz K 165 Uno Series 6-1/2" component speaker system at Crutchfield
Alpine S-S65C S-Series 6-1/2" component speaker system at Crutchfield
Infinity Primus PR6510CS Primus Series 6-1/2" component speaker system at Crutchfield
Pioneer TS-A652C A-Series 6-1/2" component speaker system at Crutchfield


Here is one that you would want to see if there is a little more amp before you buy anything.
Morel Maximo 6 Maximo Series 6-1/2" component speaker system at Crutchfield


For amplifiers, you need to know what kind of draw its going to add on to your electrical system. You have the variable alternator voltage, and I don't know what they usually run at, so 75watts x 4 channels = 300 watts
300 watts / 14 volts = 21.4 amps , 300 watts / 11 volts = 27.2 amps. That is the amperage draw you are going to add to your system. That is low enough you probably shouldn't even notice it. Personally, I would do the "BIG 3" upgrade as well, and that should be enough for that size. If you might want to go bigger, you should find out what size alternator you have, and what size is an easy upgrade if you wanted to go that route.

You didn't list or say anything about subs. Personally, a small one will always add to the sound quality. You add one with its own bass knob, and you can adjust the sub level independently. You would need either a second amp, or you go back and look for a 5 channel amp now.

As far as install goes: Are you doing this yourself or a shop?
Its also that time of year. I would also suggest doing a little more research, and seeing what you want out of a head unit, comparing different manufacturers if you haven't, maybe going into a best buy or audio store and see if there is a style you like or don't like (such as all touch display or being able to use dials). I would fully expect their to be roughly 15-30% discounts for upcoming black Friday. If you don't plan on doing the install, they will usually install for much cheaper if you buy from them. If you have a shop you want to use, ask em about black friday deals.
 

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You cannot hear cone material
You cannot hear the HU
You can only hear more or less power. I should say "clean" power.

Always add power to stock components over any thing else. Do you really think you ears can function with 22 wattts RMS trying to push pure distortion? Having power on tap is money in the bank. It's there if you need it when you upgrade the rest.

Buy the amp that runs the coolest, has the smallest footprint, and puts out the MOST POWER you can afford.
 

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I don't think those speakers will match up well with that amp. Those speakers are 2.5 ohm (resistance) and the amp is 4 ohms. That won't be 75 watts. Generally almost all aftermarket speakers (non-sub) are 4 ohm rated. Those 2.5 ohm speakers are designed to run with a factory head unit (which is usually something odd like that).
You can put a 2.5 ohm load on any amp....or amp "rated" for 75w @4 ohm, but it will run hot. So buy a Class D amp. Or wire the speakers in series to halve the load.

The final numbers are all arbitrary. I used to run 400 watts on my tweeters and midrange. I never blew a speaker. It's nearly all lost in heat and the nose of the vehicle sucks the rest out. What's left needs to drive a clean signal, playing clean music. Unless you just sit in the garage listing to everything auto-tuned and smashed to the wall with no dynamic range.
 

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1st decide how much you want to spend and what exactly are you looking for in sound. Head unit is the most important to me because there are always certain features I want. Then I just go with decent not great regular speakers, finally get a sub/amp combo I can afford with the box that fits in the space.
Granted, I'm not trying to go deaf. I just want decent tunes with some rich thumping.
Funny, I actually just got a cheap amp, 2 12s with a box for $65 at an auction. Nothing special, but better than nothing. Hopefully putting it in this weekend.
 

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2015 Silverado LT Texas Edition
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1st decide how much you want to spend and what exactly are you looking for in sound. Head unit is the most important to me because there are always certain features I want. Then I just go with decent not great regular speakers, finally get a sub/amp combo I can afford with the box that fits in the space.
Granted,
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I just want decent tunes with some rich thumping.
Funny, I actually just got a cheap amp, 2 12s with a box for $65 at an auction. Nothing special, but better than nothing. Hopefully putting it in this weekend.
And one of the reasons I went with the small Kicker Key Amp.

Full install here:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I guess it would be helpful to add that I just ordered enough kilmat to do all four doors. I don’t care to have competition loudness, I want a clean, clear, crisp system. Something that just sounds good and doesn’t seem distorted or something. My wifes stock infinity system in her Hyundai blows mine out of the water.

All components in the pictures were from crutchfield putting together a package from me. I didn’t select any of it.

Adriver: Yes, I fully intend on planning out the entire thing first for that very reason. I would be frustrated to get a HU and then realize I should’ve got a different one for the certain speakers that matched what I wanted. Or vice versa. I talked with a member on here before that mentioned changing all of his wires to a larger size due to the speakers he selected as well.

I don’t care for it to have navigation but I want Bluetooth for sure. I would like the option to add a factory back up camera if I want as well. Apple car play is nice when using maps on the iphone but not necessary if that takes me from a $200 HU to a $400 one.

I know that I have the KG3 rpo code which is a 145amp alternator but that’s all I know. I have heard of the BIG 3 and thought about doing it before even before thinking about audio stuff.

I would like to install myself if its straight forward.

FoxPro, not sure what they can hear ha. For the amp most power in the form of watts?

If I ever add a different sub it would be (1) 10" under the seat.
 

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The best place for Killmat is the floor and ceiling. Also try and do the ceiling and back wall.
 

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You can put a 2.5 ohm load on any amp....or amp "rated" for 75w @4 ohm, but it will run hot. So buy a Class D amp. Or wire the speakers in series to halve the load.

The final numbers are all arbitrary. I used to run 400 watts on my tweeters and midrange. I never blew a speaker. It's nearly all lost in heat and the nose of the vehicle sucks the rest out. What's left needs to drive a clean signal, playing clean music. Unless you just sit in the garage listing to everything auto-tuned and smashed to the wall with no dynamic range.
No you can't. Some amps WOULD overheat, and even for those it would work on, that's incredibly poor advice considering he hasn't yet bought any of the system.

Wattage numbers are not arbitrary, that's asinine to say that. Some speakers can handle much more power, but RMS is a median between what the speakers can handle, and diminishing return on how much power you are giving them. If you add 300 more watts beyond RMS, that's a (300/14 =) 21 amps draw to get 1 more decibel, that's ridiculous and you didn't plan well. That would be a huge power draw that is a waste in relation to what you are getting. Its certainly not arbitrary when you consider its amperage draw on the vehicle, and not worth going deeper into in this thread.


OP: Yes, you need to run new speaker wire from the amp to the speakers, (not on the list).
That alt should be good. The first sign its not, is if you play it loud with heavy hitting bass and your lights dim.

The kilmat(/sound deadener) is best at blocking out all the exterior ambient noise. Without it is like watching tv with your windows open, then adding it is like closing em. You hear less noise pollution and can hear what you want to inside more clear at a lower volume. I put in a ridiculously loud system, and sound deadened mine, and I stopped listening to it for months, because I enjoyed the quiet so much more.

Your head unit (from crutch) is kind of expensive if you don't care about Navigation/GPS. I didn't get into its details, but you can buy one for half or a third of that with what should be all those features. GPS is what causes the big price increase on head units, and if you don't care about GPS, you can easily cut that $800 down to $200-$300 and get a nice double din that should do everything that one will do besides GPS.

Assuming the Crutchfield suggestion list is about your budget, personally, I would get a head unit that's about 1/3rd of that one without the GPS, and then use that money to kilmat the entire cab. It will probably be about two times more material than what you have now (you would probably have 1/3rd of what you will need). The doors help to block out other vehicles, the floor blocks vehicle and road noise, the roof blocks out wind and ambient noise.
I would also figure out the sub, and at the least plan your amp for that now. If the sub and box is not in that overall budget at the moment, that's about the easiest thing (, a 5-10 minute install) to add down the road, if you get the amp in first. You can add a second amp in later, but at the least, you should check out the 5ch amps. This is one of those things that is going to suck to upgrade after you buy what's not enough. If you are uncertain of it, I personally think other than talk radio, just about everything can be improved with some amount of bass to it. I have zero bass added to my speakers from the head unit because they sound better with out it, and I just crank up the subs. If you don't have a sub you have to start adding it in through the head unit, then it effect the sound coming out of your mids and highs. You also can't adjust it on the fly like you can with a bass knob.

(without looking at specs), here are a few 5 ch amps: You would just need to make sure you can wire up your sub you get to the matching ohms (OR IT WILL OVERHEAT AND RUIN YOUR AMP OR THE AMP WILL GO INTO PROTECT MODE AND NOT EVEN SEND POWER).
Pioneer GM-DX975 Limited Edition 5-channel car amplifier — 75 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms + 600 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms at Crutchfield
Kicker 46CXA660.5T CX Series 5-channel car amplifier — 65 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms + 300 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms at Crutchfield
Kenwood Excelon XR901-5 Reference Series 5-channel car amplifier — 60 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms + 600 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms at Crutchfield

but again, at this stage, you can still change your entire setup. The:
Pioneer/Kenwood 75 x 4 (=300 ) + 600 = 900. /14v = 64.2 amps /11 = 81 amps
Kicker 65 x 4 (=260 ) + 300 = 560. /14v = 40 amps /11 = 51 amps

At 50 amps, you would almost guaranteed need to upgrade your alternator. 40 amps probably. At the least you would want to price what a larger alternator is going to cost, and see if this all factors in to the budget, and if its what you want.
 

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Most amps are going to draw their maximum amperage at full volume which you’ll probably never listen to it at full tilt. I run two d class taramps and at maximum consumption they are rated to draw 60 amps together. Sub amp is a 800 watt 2 ohm, 4 channel is a 400x4. Taramps make good amps all with small foot prints and all d class. But they are Brazilian power. The 1200 watts with both of my amps together don’t hurt my electrical system at all. The lowest I’ve seen it drop on a dmm is 13.99. No light dimming or nothing. So unless you plan on running crazy power, you’ll be fine. My charging system is all stock. I have the 140 amp alternator. I do plan on down the road one day doing the big 3. But this far I’ve been fine. Don’t skimp on wire either. Use high quality wiring. I’d recommend sky high ofc. All I use. Good luck.
 

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The newer Alpine amps are pretty solid. I even mounted mine upside down under the seat, which Alpine didn't recommend..but it worked fine. Neither of the Alpine amps had any heat issues. As stated, match your components and your amps for best results.

The suggestion for a bass knob is a good one if your running a sub. Often times I wanted less or more bass depending on the music I was listening to. Having that control is key to a better sound experience.

Also if your HU is working fine, you can always use it..swap speakers, add amps and change the HU later. You can use one of the Audiocontrol units to accomplish this easily.
 

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Coming from someone who has actually MEASURED output of many amps many many times, you can be assured NO amp puts out it's RMS rated power almost never. Go ahead, measure it yourself. Put a DMM on your speaker outs on your amp and play your favorite tracks WOT if you want. How many volts does it spike up to? Then use a 0 dB test tone. And SET YOUR GAINS CORRECTLY. (yelling!)

Again, what are you listening to? AM radio? Keep the stock HU. Well-mastered and dynamic music? Then gets lots and lots of power and ignore the rest. They pump air. Speakers can handle the power they can handle till the voice coil melts. If you really believe your speakers "put out" what says on the box you need to take 12V Electronics 101. You can melt every stock driver you have on 25 w RMS. Why? How?

Constrained Layer Damping products like Killmat or whatever, decouple resonant metal. They turn vibration in to heat. You need thick butyl sandwiched between aluminum to do the job. One layer in the center of large, flat spots usually does the trick. That's outer door skins, the roof, underside of the hood, rear deck, some floor panels that aren't already treated of from the factory.

Good point on putting a new HU in for the fancy bells and whistles you want. I'm only coming from a sound quality and pure enjoyment perspective.
 

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At 50 amps, you would almost guaranteed need to upgrade your alternator. 40 amps probably. At the least you would want to price what a larger alternator is going to cost, and see if this all factors in to the budget, and if its what you want.
Have you ever measured the draw of a class A/B amp on a factory alt while the engine is running and the HU is playing a few clicks down from earbleed with the gains set correctly?

No?

Carry on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
The best place for Killmat is the floor and ceiling. Also try and do the ceiling and back wall.
Interesting in two other posts about it everyone seemed to say do doors first and then if you want more do floors, then roof. Eventually maybe all of it but I wanted to try the doors first. As I seem to hear a lot of noise from them vs under or over me.. maybe I am imagining it though.. could very well be.

Got to read over the rest of the replies a few more times and figure some stuff out.
I will look into the wiring and more headunits. Would much rather spend a $2-300 vs $800.

Thanks everyone.
 

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The doors are where a lot of noise come in but I noticed from one of my family member's vehicles that after installing killmat in the floor and the ceiling it was a crazy difference. I mean the roof is so thin and the floor is just road right underneath you.

Doors are good though because it insulates the speakers and helps eliminate rattles and small holes and stuff for wind.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
What about these two, seems a lot cheaper than the original one I was quoted.


For another $100 this one supports car play and then I could use waze or maps on my iphone. IF I can find one in stock somewhere. Only one place currently has them for this price. This one also says it has a video output, does that mean I could play a DVD in it and then connect a monitor to it via cable to play for the kids in the rear?

comparison of the two: Is there anything about these that would affect the speaker choice drastically or the sub if one is done in the future?
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I think I could get the headunit (300 or lower), kilmat (on the way), and all 4 door speakers done at once providing the door speakers arent super high (200-250 for all 4). Would running a larger gauge wire be worth it to the new door speakers or is that dependent on which ones?

After that I would likely do an amp and single 10" sundown. unless I need to do the amp at the same time as the speakers. Running wires to this amp will it need to just go to the HU only or the door speakers too?

once all of that is done the Big 3 and alternator will be assessed to see if its needed.. May do the big 3 anyway as I could get this and it likely be enough length wise based on another thread on here saying the NNBS only needs about 4' of wire.
 

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Have you had a car with Apple CarPlay? That shit is genuinely revolutionary. If I didn't hate aftermarket double dins I would get one myself
 
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