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Towing a TT with a 5.3 3.42 6spd Silverado 1500

29K views 29 replies 14 participants last post by  CKNSLS 
#1 ·
Hi all. I've done a LOT of reading on this forum and others about towing with similar setups, but I'm still not sure about my specific case for this truck I'm looking at given all the conflicting opinions and anecdotes I've seen. I want to tow a 24' travel trailer full time with whichever truck I get (sometimes spending up to 2 months in one area, so it's not like I'd be towing every day, but still towing regularly and year round). I will need to be able to make it over high mountain passes in the American West, the Colorado Rockies in particular probably being the worst case scenario.

The trailer would be 24.5ft, 5000 dry weight, 7000 gvwr, and a 550 dry tongue weight (Nash 22H). I'd be using a WD/anti-sway hitch like the Equal-i-zer or a ProPride P3.

The truck I'm looking at is a 2011 Silverado 1500 with all the heavy duty towing equipment EXCEPT NHT. 5.3L v8, but the 4th gen LC9 with less hp/torque than the 5th gen L83 ecotec3 revision. 6L80E 6-speed and 3.42 gearing. Short bed crew, which puts it at 9400 or 9500 towing capacity. Payload is 1570 I believe from the door sticker. 3950 for both front and rear gawr, 7000 gvwr for the truck.

This particular truck has a small lift and 33.8" tires rather than the stock 31.6" (see photo).

The lift was done with 2 gas-a-just struts and 2 monomax shocks at Les Schwab. I'm not sure which ones went on the front vs the back. The truck had the z85 trailering suspension, so did this replace that, and if so is it worse for towing?

It seems GM didn't offer 3.73 gearing with the 5.3L until late in the 2nd gen Silverados, like 13 or 14? Because the official Chevy trailering guide for 2011 lists only the 6.2L in combination with 3.73 gearing for the 10,400# max trailering option. My friends have a 2014 1500 with the 5.3 L83 and 3.73 gearing and NHT, I noticed they had a 4100 rear gawr on theirs as opposed to the standard 3950.

So I guess my overall question is: can this truck do what I need it to do comfortably, or do I need to spring for a 2500HD or a newer 1500 with NHT/3.73?

RPO codes this truck has, confirmed inside the glove box:

KC4: external engine oil cooler
KNP: external transmission oil cooler fan and heavy-duty radiator
K5L: heavy duty cooling package
Z85: trailering suspension
Z82: trailering equipment package
G80: locking rear differential
JL1: trailer brake controller
JL4: stabilitrak active braking
LC9: 5.3L V8 Vortec FlexFuel
MYC: 6-speed automatic
 

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#2 ·
I have the exact truck with those options but a 2013. I pull a 30' 6200lb camper no issues. I'll run in 4th gear at roughly 60 mph at just under 2500 rpms. Although I have not run this one in the mountains, it's good for power in the hills around here. I added LT rated tires and helper springs for handling. I have read the best thing would to add 4:10 gears.

2013 Silverado 1500 Z71 CC 5.3 4WD 3:42's and all stock
 
#3 ·
My opinion only, that's a near-perfect combination. I don't know how it feels to pull with 33s/3.42, so someone may have an opinion on that. Otherwise, I'll take your rig to pull my 30'. 7k / 5k at 24', pfft, sounds nice. Not that I wouldn't love a 2500 HD to whip it around like a rag doll and not worry about what's behind me. :lol:
 
#4 ·
If you have the option to get a 2500 then do it. I am by no means the weight police and think that 1500 will be fine. I pull a much heavier trailer with my 1500 and have no issues but if I "could" get a 2500 I would.

If you stick with the 1500 I would seriously consider a re gear and maybe some suspension pieces like air bags or super springs.
 
#5 ·
Thanks for the replies so far!

I should add that I don't need to "whip it around" and I don't mind if it's a little sluggish when towing. I just don't want to harm the truck by making it scream in lower gears all the time, and I don't want to be unable to keep 45+mph on steeper mountain passes. I also want it to be safe and stable, not a white-knuckle drive. I'm okay with keeping it to 65mph in the right lane when towing, even on flat ground. But a lot of our time will be at 4,000+ feet elevation in high desert and sometimes up to 10k mountain passes. So is this not enough truck for that in particular?

Will I need to drop the tires back down to stock size? If I can save a couple thousand on this truck, should I consider putting that money into a 3.73 regear, essentially making it a full NHT?

Is the lift (Gas-A-Just struts and Monomax shocks) going to be a problem?

I don't think I can go 2500HD, for two reasons: I probably can't afford one, and I need to also do some pretty hairy 4x4ing, and the 2500 seems too big for a lot of that.

It seems like 2014+ 5.3/3.73 NHTs are hard to find, especially in my price range (sub-20k), as well as 2009-2013 6.2/3.73 NHTs. But is that what I need if I can't go with a 2500?

Lastly, is 115k a high mileage for Silverados/Chevys? Should I pay 20k for one with 70k miles rather than 16k for one with 110k? I'm coming from an 07 Tacoma I bought at 115k and now it's got 165, still feels smooth as butter. But is that old for a Chevy, or can I expect similar longevity to Toyota? I'd like the truck to last 5 years at least, and I'd probably be putting on 25k miles per year. Not sure if the tranny can be expected to die before 200k, etc...
 
#6 ·
schmalpal said:
Hi all. I've done a LOT of reading on this forum and others about towing with similar setups, but I'm still not sure about my specific case for this truck I'm looking at given all the conflicting opinions and anecdotes I've seen. I want to tow a 24' travel trailer full time with whichever truck I get (sometimes spending up to 2 months in one area, so it's not like I'd be towing every day, but still towing regularly and year round). I will need to be able to make it over high mountain passes in the American West, the Colorado Rockies in particular probably being the worst case scenario.

<<SNIP>>
Normally, I would say you could use a half ton truck. But there are things you say in this first paragraph that makes me think otherwise.

Full timing, you will be carrying everything, EVERYTHING. Truck and trailer will most likely be LOADED! Half ton truck has limits, in both its ability to pull load and carry load.
IMO, a 2500 diesel truck is what you need.

As you can see by my signature below, I tow with a pretty similar truck as you are questioning, except mine is geared 3:73. I tow two different travel trailers. One is 6,400 GVWR, the other 9,800 GVWR.

I've been over some 12,000 ft mountain passes towing that smaller trailer at ~6,000 lbs. No way would I go heavier. With the smaller trailer I am over the truck's GVWR with 2 passengers, a Honda 2000 and a tool box in the bed, by about 100 lbs.

With the ~9,000 lb trailer I can't carry anything in the bed and I'm over by several hundred pounds. No way would I take the heavy trailer to the mountains.

However, if you decide on using a half ton I suggest you get the Owner's Manual then go to the section that gives combined weight rating of trucks based on actual equipment (cab type, engine size, bed size, transmission type, gear ratio) and find the combined weight rating for that truck. Then, realize the larger tires have changed the gear ratio so that it has less ability to pull. Make sure the truck specifications says it will both carry weight (passenger and driver weight, cargo weight, hitch weight, trailer tongue weight) and at the same time to pull the gross weight of the trailer.
Remember: ANY truck will not tow maximum weight while hauling maximum load. As payload increases a trucks ability to pull a trailer decreases

Do some math. Find the ( GCWR) gross combined weight rating of the truck. Deduct the GVWR of the truck from the GCWR. This difference is the maximum weight of the trailer that should be matched with the truck.

Those "Towing Guides" are a sales tool, which IMO are very misleading.
 
#7 ·
4.10s would help a lot more than you would think those larger tires but your effective gear ratio proably closer to 3.08 (i didnt do the math, so check that) but i would suggest getting a 2500HD if you can spring for that in any way especially going into the mountains frequently and bringing 2 months worth of gear!

it will DO it but YOU might not like HOW it does it while in the mountains.
 
#8 ·
I ended up picking up the truck and a different TT, 4400 dry (410 dry tongue) and 6200 gvwr, so I think I'll be more within the truck's capability there as opposed to my original post. I towed it with full tanks but no possessions (so about 5000lb) about 150 miles today. Felt fine from a start, but is it normal that it had be in 4th on flat highway to maintain 65mph? Normal to drop to 3rd up grades? It seemed like I had to drop to 60mph to just barely get it to stay in 5th. Maybe that's because I was in Tow/Haul mode? Is it better to run at a lower rpm at the expense of acceleration?

I didn't want the big tires necessarily, it just came with them and they're nice Toyo ATs (LT, load E). The only benefit there for me is a little more clearance for off-roading, I don't care how it looks. So I guess right now I'm wondering if I should keep the larger tires (LT285/75/17E) and regear to 4.10, or just go down to stock (LT265/70/17E) and keep the 3.42s? Would the latter setup be more efficient/work the engine and tranny less?

I also wonder if I was way underinflated for that kind of towing, I was at 38psi.
 
#9 ·
The lighter trailer was a good idea, the weight sounds like its well within your tow range. You'll probably be running with some weight in the tanks if you move around a lot, so it may be a good idea to get your set up properly weighed so your calculations are accurate. The tires you have there now are a lot bigger and could weight about 20 lbs more than stock "P"s, so dropping to LT265/70/17 might be a good idea just to reduce unsprung weight. I think LT's need more air pressure, so 38 psi might not be enough.
 
#10 ·
i have that same tire size 285/75r17 E load on my 09 silverado 5.3 and i regeared from 3.42s to 4.10s. Worth every penny in my opinion, although i was able to do it myself instead of paying a shop. It can be expensive depending on area and if you have a 4wd or not because both axles will need to be geared the same.

I dont recall mine dropping to third unless i held it on the floor to pass going uphill (towing 5k in tow haul mode). If i had everything closer i could go hook to it and tell you for sure
 
#11 ·
schmalpal said:
I ended up picking up the truck and a different TT, 4400 dry (410 dry tongue) and 6200 gvwr, so I think I'll be more within the truck's capability there as opposed to my original post. I towed it with full tanks but no possessions (so about 5000lb) about 150 miles today. Felt fine from a start, but is it normal that it had be in 4th on flat highway to maintain 65mph? Normal to drop to 3rd up grades? It seemed like I had to drop to 60mph to just barely get it to stay in 5th. Maybe that's because I was in Tow/Haul mode? Is it better to run at a lower rpm at the expense of acceleration?

I didn't want the big tires necessarily, it just came with them and they're nice Toyo ATs (LT, load E). The only benefit there for me is a little more clearance for off-roading, I don't care how it looks. So I guess right now I'm wondering if I should keep the larger tires (LT285/75/17E) and regear to 4.10, or just go down to stock (LT265/70/17E) and keep the 3.42s? Would the latter setup be more efficient/work the engine and tranny less?

I also wonder if I was way underinflated for that kind of towing, I was at 38psi.
I run in 4th with TH mode on as it will never kick in the 5th never mind 6th on flat land. I run my tires at 65lbs and max is 80. 2500 rpms is pretty quiet and not lugging when you need to accelerate. On our steeper inclines I have been on it downshifts to 3rd. This is why I believe that 4:10's as suggested here and in other threads I have read is the way to go. It's not one of my priorities to update my gears though right now.

2013 Silverado 1500 Z71 CC 5.3 4WD 3:42's and all stock
 
#12 ·
schmalpal said:
I ended up picking up the truck and a different TT, 4400 dry (410 dry tongue) and 6200 gvwr, so I think I'll be more within the truck's capability there as opposed to my original post. I towed it with full tanks but no possessions (so about 5000lb) about 150 miles today. Felt fine from a start, but is it normal that it had be in 4th on flat highway to maintain 65mph? Normal to drop to 3rd up grades? It seemed like I had to drop to 60mph to just barely get it to stay in 5th. Maybe that's because I was in Tow/Haul mode? Is it better to run at a lower rpm at the expense of acceleration?

I didn't want the big tires necessarily, it just came with them and they're nice Toyo ATs (LT, load E). The only benefit there for me is a little more clearance for off-roading, I don't care how it looks. So I guess right now I'm wondering if I should keep the larger tires (LT285/75/17E) and regear to 4.10, or just go down to stock (LT265/70/17E) and keep the 3.42s? Would the latter setup be more efficient/work the engine and tranny less?

I also wonder if I was way underinflated for that kind of towing, I was at 38psi.
I live in NC where there are mountain passes. I regularly tow up and down I-40 and I-77, some steep grades. Towing with my Silverado I can pull my 25' ~6000 lb trailer up those grades and maintain 55mph. Sometimes it will drop to 4th. At any time the truck still has the ability to accelerate if I press the gas to the floor it will drop into 3rd.
Coming down, I usually shift the transmission down to 3rd gear when I am at the top. This way I do not have to ride the brakes all the way down. Still on a long down hill steep grade the brakes can get hot.
I run all four tires inflated to 38 psi, towing or not. I've found this gives me an extra 10,000 miles out of a set of tires. If I inflate to the manufacturer's reccomended rate the front tires seem to wear faster on the outside edges of the tire (I assume becasue of roll over in turns).
When It is time for new tires, I would go back to a lower profile tire.
 
#13 ·
schmalpal said:
I will need to be able to make it over high mountain passes in the American West, the Colorado Rockies in particular probably being the worst case scenario.
Welcome to full-time RVing!!

I have a similar truck to yours, except I am running a Z60 suspension and 275/55/20 tires. I also have 3.42 gearing. I have traveled across the country several times now. Been over the Continental Divide more time than I can count. The truck pulls my 27' long, 11.5' tall, 7000lbs TT well. The only time I sweated a mountain climb was in Utah.

The hwy north out of Park City is a long steep climb, for an interstate anyway. In 99 degree midday heat, the truck coolant and trans were hotter than normal. I had the cabin heater on and the windows down. So, I was REALLY sweating it. Unlike the fella I passed on the side of the road overheated pulling a fifth wheel, the truck made it up ok. It was almost time anyway, so when I spent some time in one place, I had a mechanic change the trans fluid. No biggie.

Now, what I believe is more important than the mtns out west is the wind warnings. There is a video from the WY hwy patrol showing a tractor trailer blow over . It is pretty common out there. Because the winds can be sudden and strong, 40-60mph is not unusual, don't leave your awning out unattended. I've seen more than one get curled back over the top of the TT. It's a mess.
Also, a lot of gas stations out west carry 85 octane fuel. IMHO, I have found it not so good for towing and stick to 87 or 91. just me

Tire psi. The last set of tires were very comfortable for everyday driving at 33psi. When I would tow, the pressure was up to 42psi. The truck felt great and in control. The tires did not sag as much either. 42 psi did overinflate the tires and I wore the center down in no time. This is something you will need to experiment with.
 
#14 ·
How do you know what gear the truck is using? I see a lot of discussion about what gear the truck is using at various speeds and loads. Is there a display of the current gear on some screen?
I am kinda new to this truck. I have looked through the manual and can't find an answer.
 
#15 ·
On your shifter there is a switch to select gear after you drop shifter down from Drive. Dash shows highest gear it will go in. If your stopped press + button to select highest gear you want. If you driving drop shifter and it will show what current gear truck is in. It will downshift but will not upshift past gear showing.

2013 Silverado 1500 Z71 CC 5.3 4WD 3:42's and all stock
 
#16 ·
Larry L said:
How do you know what gear the truck is using? I see a lot of discussion about what gear the truck is using at various speeds and loads. Is there a display of the current gear on some screen?
I am kinda new to this truck. I have looked through the manual and can't find an answer.
There are a lot of features that are explained in your owners manual. :roll: :lol:
 
#17 ·
I saw that in the manual and tried it a few times. It seemed that when I would shift to L, the truck would downshift, so I wasn't positive what gear the truck was in before shifted.

I was hoping there was a more eloquent method where the current gear was displayed somehow.
 
#19 ·
Larry L said:
I saw that in the manual and tried it a few times. It seemed that when I would shift to L, the truck would downshift, so I wasn't positive what gear the truck was in before shifted.

I was hoping there was a more eloquent method where the current gear was displayed somehow.
Mine has never downshifted when I drop it and I use manual a lot. I live out in the country and when I get to the city I always drop it into manual. For speeds up to 60 kph/40 mph I use 4th. Speeds up to 80 kph/50 mph I use 5th. If I don't, truck becomes a dog when trying to speed up.

2013 Silverado 1500 Z71 CC 5.3 4WD 3:42's and all stock
 
#20 ·
660catman said:
Mine has never downshifted when I drop it and I use manual a lot. I live out in the country and when I get to the city I always drop it into manual. For speeds up to 60 kph/40 mph I use 4th. Speeds up to 80 kph/50 mph I use 5th. If I don't, truck becomes a dog when trying to speed up.
I drove my '13 the same way until I got a Lew tune. That took care of the bogging/dogginess. But I still use M4 and M5 a lot anyway. Maybe just habit.
 
#22 ·
Larry L said:
I tried shifting into L a few times today and every time the truck down shifted 2 gears.

I am looking into the app.

Thanks for all of the advise.
What year is your truck as 07-13 doesn't have L, it's D or M. Shifting to M does NOT downshift.

2013 Silverado 1500 Z71 CC 5.3 4WD 3:42's and all stock
 
#23 ·
It is a 2017.

I ran across a chart in the manual that confirms what I thought, it does down shift to 4 if dropping to L from 5 or 6.
I tried to copy it below....

Gear before shifting from
D (Drive) to L (Manual Mode) 6th 5th 4th 3rd 2nd 1st
Range after shifting from
D (Drive) to L (Manual Mode) L4 L4 L3 L2 L2 L1
 
#24 ·
A W Warn said:
schmalpal said:
Hi all. I've done a LOT of reading on this forum and others about towing with similar setups, but I'm still not sure about my specific case for this truck I'm looking at given all the conflicting opinions and anecdotes I've seen. I want to tow a 24' travel trailer full time with whichever truck I get (sometimes spending up to 2 months in one area, so it's not like I'd be towing every day, but still towing regularly and year round). I will need to be able to make it over high mountain passes in the American West, the Colorado Rockies in particular probably being the worst case scenario.

<<SNIP>>
Normally, I would say you could use a half ton truck. But there are things you say in this first paragraph that makes me think otherwise.

Full timing, you will be carrying everything, EVERYTHING. Truck and trailer will most likely be LOADED! Half ton truck has limits, in both its ability to pull load and carry load.
IMO, a 2500 diesel truck is what you need.

As you can see by my signature below, I tow with a pretty similar truck as you are questioning, except mine is geared 3:73. I tow two different travel trailers. One is 6,400 GVWR, the other 9,800 GVWR.

I've been over some 12,000 ft mountain passes towing that smaller trailer at ~6,000 lbs. No way would I go heavier. With the smaller trailer I am over the truck's GVWR with 2 passengers, a Honda 2000 and a tool box in the bed, by about 100 lbs.

With the ~9,000 lb trailer I can't carry anything in the bed and I'm over by several hundred pounds. No way would I take the heavy trailer to the mountains.

However, if you decide on using a half ton I suggest you get the Owner's Manual then go to the section that gives combined weight rating of trucks based on actual equipment (cab type, engine size, bed size, transmission type, gear ratio) and find the combined weight rating for that truck. Then, realize the larger tires have changed the gear ratio so that it has less ability to pull. Make sure the truck specifications says it will both carry weight (passenger and driver weight, cargo weight, hitch weight, trailer tongue weight) and at the same time to pull the gross weight of the trailer.
Remember: ANY truck will not tow maximum weight while hauling maximum load. As payload increases a trucks ability to pull a trailer decreases

Do some math. Find the ( GCWR) gross combined weight rating of the truck. Deduct the GVWR of the truck from the GCWR. This difference is the maximum weight of the trailer that should be matched with the truck.

Those "Towing Guides" are a sales tool, which IMO are very misleading.
I did the math and was not surprised by my findings, what I thought and what members here have said. With 1500's we run out of payload before anything else, at least for me I do. I have a payload of 1531 and GVWR of 7000 as per sticker. BUT , I added accessories which reduced my payload to 1333 when I weighed the truck. With a fully loaded hitch weight of 858 lbs with battery and two 30 lb propane tanks. Leaves me 475 lbs. for me and the wife. I have 1708 lbs left in camper payload which weighed in at 6204 but I can only add 1456 to reach max GCVWR of 15000 lbs. I have very little to add to camper so I'm good. All this leads me to contemplating upgrading truck to a 2500 or downsizing trailer. Or better yet if I can convince the wife, scrap both for a truck/5th wheel combo to pull the boat too.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#25 ·
Just an update with my experience on a recent 2600 mile trip. Trip was from southern Manitoba to Yellowstone, the Black Hills of SD and back home. Took I94 to Billings and then headed down to Cody. Went down to Jackson and from there east to Lusk, WY and up into the Black Hills. No issues with towing anywhere other than the slow climb out of Jackson. One pass was at just under 8000 feet. Did I feel under powered? No. Did I feel uneasy travelling these mountain passes? Absolutely not. And I would have no issue doing it again.

2013 Silverado CC 1500 Z71 5.3 4WD
 
#26 ·
gustobru said:
My opinion only, that's a near-perfect combination. I don't know how it feels to pull with 33s/3.42, so someone may have an opinion on that. Otherwise, I'll take your rig to pull my 30'. 7k / 5k at 24', pfft, sounds nice. Not that I wouldn't love a 2500 HD to whip it around like a rag doll and not worry about what's behind me. :lol:
Glad to hear the pull went nicely for you. Beastmode.

That's a great route. My trip up through Cheyenne to Cody, Yellowstone and Thermopolis was good. There are some tough hills, and the wind was noticeable. We did run into a tornado and hail situation which pulled me straight off the road, but the unit stayed steady and I was able to stop through the ditch. It helps to have the tanks empty on the trailer where possible, I've found.
 
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