going to get up to speed and keep going - The Deaver mini packs are on! Now to take a little break, been working on it by myself for a ...

The Deaver mini packs are on! Now to take a little break, been working on it by myself for a whole 2 hours going to go ahead and put on the tubular UCAs from Rough County.. was going to get there forged ones but I want this all on now and can’t wait for a new set to come in. Will have pictures up later this afternoon! Increased overall rear height by 1.5” with the stock block in place. 1/8” shy of what I “calculated” it to be when done.

Pictures!!! Where are the pictures???

Pics or it didn’t happen


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got most of what i did typed up and pictures in place i want to get a few i missed before posting though

Nice man!


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Tools needed:
Pry bar
Dead blow hammer
Couple of different sockets
torque wrench
locking vice grips

MUST HAVE a set of locking vice grips, I had to go buy a set because apparently I work on my vehicles and don’t have one? Anyway

Here is what you get when it gets to the house.


Those two plates on the bottom pointed to with red arrows are for additional lift. Each plate accounts for 3/8” of height.


Since I have the boss ultimate kit I called alex at halo lifts and for the rear shocks the factory rear block shouldn’t be replaced with more than 3-1/4” total. I opted to take off both 3/8” spacers and use the factory rear blocks which should have netted a total of 1-5/8” higher in the rear over stock or a total of 2-7/8.

Making sure its all going to fit right before unbolting anything. I did have the aluminum block from halo lifts in it so I was able to see how well it matched up with the factory block.




The next thing I did was go ahead and take the spacers off of the deaver pack by using the locking vice grips and a ratchet, while in the vice so that the spring load on them wouldn’t make it too hard to get the nut off.

Here are several pictures of the process from start to finish.

I was able to get this far without needing to hold the bolt, that’s where I found out the news I needed a pair of locking vice grips.. luckily I hadn’t started taking the truck apart.






After breaking the tires loose and taking them off I decided to come up with an ingenious idea to hold the frame up while I used the floor jack to raise and lower the rear end for ease of installment this is what I came up with, both of them under the hitch crossmember as far apart as possible for stability.



Next I broke loose and took off the u-bolt nuts and then pulled the lower shock bolts out as well. I searched around and made sure that was all that was needed to be undone so that I could drop the whole rearend as far as possible.
This is the only wire that is needed to watch out for, im sure that it could have been removed or something but it looked like it had plenty of slack and it did.

And you will want to support the drive shaft here.. not necessary but the rearend rotated forward due to gravity.. and with it just being me working on it I needed it simple.



Now before you go any farther I would recommend taking a C clamp and placing on the top two leafs near the rearend, again not necessary but helpful
Otherwise this happens.



You will have to use the same trick as you did on the deaver springs and use locking vice grips. The bottom spring is the load spring and that’s what you are replacing by installing the deaver springs.
Once you have the load spring off you need to take this plate and transfer it over to the new set. Like so




a comparison shot, I thing the old load spring is worn out.. seems a little flat



This also helped me get the nut started back on the bolt that came with the deaver springs.



Once the nut is started you can get all of the leafs as straight as possible then tighten down to within a half inch then straighten any of the leafs that may have shifted while tightening then torque to spec, I did 45lb-ft. Once that was bolted up I bolted the shocks back up, Then installed the factory block or any other of your choice and the ubolts and torque to spec, I did 100lb-ft and will check all of it later. And that’s pretty much it. I will have to get some pictures in the daylight
Heres one shot

Here are a few more pics

Before:


After:


Before:


After:



don’t think you can tell the difference too much with these shots but let’s try,

Before:


After:


Oh yeah front is still set at 2” and I haven’t put on the UCAs the in laws came to visit today so I’ll do it this coming weekend or one day after work. Can’t be that hard. But I don’t want to have to get an alignment yet so I may not.
Before measurements driver rear 40.5” after 42.5 and same on passenger side. So I gained 1.5” where I should’ve gained 1.625. Good enough to me.

Showed the wife and she was like that looks a little higher, I said sure is. She did a walk around and found this and said you need to get new pipe.. should I tel her I can get only the tips or if I have to get a whole system

Is that even a question, go get a carven muffler and have a stainless system welded up! Or go with a Crosa! Your money not mine, but I mean you know what I’d pick!


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I have a $30 off code for carven. 3in ss catback shipped was around $520


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