093945006619lg.jpg I used this on mine. Took the leftovers right off and didn't harm the finish at all.

05Canuck wrote:Looks good sir...what did you use to get the gunk off from the lettering?

I used this on mine. Took the leftovers right off and didn't harm the finish at all.

Looks good


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Afgixxer wrote:Looks good


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Thanks!

So, you win some and you lose some. There are a half dozen other things I would have rather done, but yesterday my wife urged me to install the OEM nerf steps. Rainy and 40 degrees outside with football on the TV and there I was on the cold garage floor, haha. Good thing is they are very simple to install. This wasn't the next mod that I wanted to do, but it was the ONE mod SHE wanted so.....

Hey....as long as she is on board with modding!!! Just need to convince her all the other goodies you want to add are for her! lol

nealinator wrote:Hey....as long as she is on board with modding!!! Just need to convince her all the other goodies you want to add are for her! lol

She's pretty good with it all. It's when I start going under the hood she starts to get antsy, lol.

My stereo is the 8" non-bose and while it's sufficient, it's lacking that extra oomph. So after reading through here and on Amazon, I decided to get a powered sub, the Cerwin Vega VPAS10 to be exact.

Seems to be a well built unit and overall has good reviews. Initially I was going to do the install myself. Went outside and started looking around and quickly realized I wanted someone else to do it. Went to a few a few local audio places and after being quoted $125-150 for the install, I was back to installing it myself Drug out my little 8 guage amp kit that I bought off Amazon and went to work. After reading through several sites of where to route the power cable to the cabin, I decided to go with the grommet that's right beside the driver's side door hinge.

Very easy and takes just a few minutes to do. Next I popped all the door sill plastic pieces off and then removed the inner covers. One thing about removing those inner covers. It sucks. However, I found that if you the cover will slide just a bit and you will have a little gap where the tab snaps onto the other piece. Just grab one of those little micro type flathead screwdrivers (like you use on glasses) and drive it between the tab and the bottom piece. All you have to do at that point is use the screwdriver as a lever and the tab pops right off. Then I ran the power cable all the way to the back of the cab to where I'm going to mount the unit under the seat.

I then soldered my speaker wire to the harness that came with the kit so I can tap into the truck's speakers for a signal.

Next up was finding a place to tap in. I can save you a lot of time by suggesting to tap into the speaker wires in the b-pillars before they reach the plug going to the doors. Removing the plastic pieces covering the pillars can be a bit of a b, just pop the top loose, grab the bottom and push up while pulling out and it should come off.
Driver's side b-pillar.....green(+) and green/black (-)
Passenger's side b-pillar.....white(+) and blue/black (-)
Pop the door sill trims off in the back just like you did in the front, run your speaker wire and then solder to the correct colors. The VPAS10 also has a remote volume knob which I ran under the door sills just like the other wires and then mounted under the steering wheel. All that's left to do is run your ground wire and connect your power to the battery.

As for performance, while this unit is a little boomier than I expected, it's not going to give you big-booming bass. It does make the music sound more "full" if that makes sense. I listen primarily to rock/metal and with some quick tuning I'm happy with it. It still needs a little more tweaking but I think in the end it will be exactly what I was looking for.

Post up some pics of the final install location of the sub.

One suggestion...you really need to protect that power wire where it goes through the oval hole. All the movement you get in the truck and a sharp sheet metal edge will eventually cut through the wire shielding and cause a short.

nealinator wrote:Post up some pics of the final install location of the sub.

One suggestion...you really need to protect that power wire where it goes through the oval hole. All the movement you get in the truck and a sharp sheet metal edge will eventually cut through the wire shielding and cause a short.

Right on. Planning on running by Lowe's this evening to get some more wire loom and zip ties as there are a couple of places that need attention.