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AFM/DOD complete delete advice

AFM/DOD complete delete advice

Postby Steve.S [OP] » Oct 01 2017, 3:15am

New to the forum and thank you for all the knowledge shared here.
First off I have an 08 Silver with 110k on the clock. Just had it towed back from GM dealer with the dreaded lifter failure on #7 and #1. I plan on doing a complete bypass of the AFM/DOD components. I will be replacing lifters, valley cover, cam, lifter guides as well as flashing the ECM to eliminate the programming. I will be replacing the cam with a 4.8L cam part # 12625437. Besides replacing head bolts, gaskets and any other worn parts is there any advice or tips you guys have? Any knowledge is greatly appreciated. I have been pouring over threads for the last 2 weeks....I feel like I'm missing something. Below is a link to the page where I obtained all the part numbers and a staring point.

http://lt1swap.com/afm_delete.htm

Thank you guys in advance
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Re: AFM/DOD complete delete advice

Postby Z71nTexas » Oct 06 2017, 4:51pm

Wow...a little surprised no one offering any advice.

My 2010 5.3L is in peices now.

#1-Your cam is probably toast. I wasted time pulling head and replacing lifters. Just get the cam that lt1 swap recommended.
#2-Order the delete kit from Texas Speed and Performance with 16 new lifters. It comes with most everything you need and they had it to my door via Fedex.
#3-Per the manual I am installing a new VVT oil valve pn 23088151 and the a/c compressor belt because the harmonic balancer is off. Its 7 years old...time for a new one.
#4-Buy 10 cans of brake cleaner in order to clean up the piston crowns. Mine were quite coked up from the AFM system allowing oil into the combustion chamber. I soaked them with PB blaster and wd 40 to loosen up stuff on the rings. Rubber gloves are a must cause its a dirty and time consuming job.

My 2 cents
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Re: AFM/DOD complete delete advice

Postby Sierra Man » Oct 06 2017, 7:14pm

Replace the oil pump. You may already be planning on this, but I didn't see it in the post. Its a PITA to do through the front of the engine, but it is very doable.
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Re: AFM/DOD complete delete advice

Postby 07nnbs4x4 » Oct 07 2017, 11:37am

--TSP has a good complete kit for this, I would replace all the lifters and not just the 8, which are LS7 lifters.
--I would replace the oil pump since you will be in there, a good option is going to be the Melling 10295 Pump.
--Use a Valley Cover from the L92 or 4.8 that does not have the PCV, you do not need the PCV breather port.
--Check the timing chain and sprockets for wear. The Gen4 5.3 uses the LS2 style as well, which is the strongest factory chain.
--This might be a good time to replace your valve springs and valve seals. I recommend the LS6 springs, they can be had cheap, the LS6 springs are the best stock replacement.
--Make sure to replace the Dampener Bolt as well, they are Torque-To-Yield (TTY) Bolts are can not be used again once torqued.
--I would also get rid of the factory timing chain tensioner and swap it for an LS2 Style Damper. Direct bolt in and can swap it in 5 minutes or less. The tensioner is a great idea, but they are prone to breaking after 100k miles, according to the GM service manual, they recommend to change them every 150,000 miles.
--I am pretty sure the cam you have chosen is a Single Bolt, but if it is a 3-Bolt, You will need a new cam gear.
--Clean the block and head mating surfaces the best you can. The Stock GM head Gaskets are forgiving, but make sure both surfaces are smooth as glass, and make sure all old gasket material has been removed. Using a straight razor blade with brake cleaner worked the best for me, but be sure not to gouge the surfaces, especially if you have an aluminum block. You do not want to have to do this again once you have it all together and realize your burning coolant.
--Clean the tops of the pistons, heavy carbon buildup can lead to hot spots and can cause detonation.
--I would look into Sac City Corvette for their AlignIt tool for the front timing cover, they are $30. If the front cover is off even a mm, the front seal will leak at the dampener. Also, do not forget to put a dab of RTV on each corver of the oil pan gasket where the timing cover meets or it will leak as well.

If you havn't already purchased a cam, have you thought about going with a slightly larger cam, such as the BTR Truck Series line of cams? Their Stage 1 and 2 will work with stock torque converter as well as Stock LS6 Valve Springs making them very valvetrain friendly. Their Stage 2 Truck cam is good for about 40-rwhp, which is what I use.
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Re: AFM/DOD complete delete advice

Postby Z71nTexas » Oct 08 2017, 4:50am

The texas speed delete kit has a ls style chain dampner removing the stock spring loaded version. I had to loosen the ac compressor bracket to get to left side bolt on timing cover. Fun stuff.

The kit also provides a valley cover (without solenoids) just swap oil pressure sensor over.

If you remove oil pump...getting to and loosening that 1 pick up tube bolt will be a pain. Tie a fishing line to it (tight) once its loose and you see a couple threads then I used a small magnet to turn bolt till it falls. Pull fishing line gently. To reinstall you can bolt it up with an oversize washer on other side of pick up tube. Why GM did this is beyond stupid.
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Re: AFM/DOD complete delete advice

Postby Steve.S [OP] » Oct 08 2017, 9:06pm

First off the advice is awesome here and thank you. I have bought a new cam...non d.o.d. obviously. I have the delete kit from Summit. New cam came from GM as the summit kit didn't include one. When it came to tear down the thrust plate retainer bolts were a joke (T40) everything else went smooth. I ended up drilling the heads off the retainer plate bolts with a 5/16 bit, drilling a hole with a 1/8 bit about a 1/4 in the center of those and using easy out. Worked like a charm. Ill eat the $30 for new bolts because it saved a stuff ton of time. other than that clean the block, service heads and reassembly. Best assembly lube? I am planning on picking up Permatex or Royal Purple. Whats best? As for cleaning the piston "head" whats recommended and a DONT DO. I think I'm pretty mechanically inclined and I'm not afraid to take on an issue. I want this build to be correct as anyone else would. picking brains to see if I'm missing anything. Thanks in advance
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Re: AFM/DOD complete delete advice

Postby Z71nTexas » Oct 09 2017, 1:40am

I didnt have any issues with the T40 thrust plate bolts hmmm...i had a T40 bit in kit from craftsman that I just inserted into a 1/4 socket. Then put as much pressure as I could as I slowly turned with a torque wrench.

Here is a pic of the oil pick up tube procedure. Tie fishing line to it then use a magnet to turn it out.
20171007_183519.jpg
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Re: AFM/DOD complete delete advice

Postby Z71nTexas » Oct 09 2017, 4:07pm

Almost forgot...when installing heads buy a can of copper spray and lightly spray both sides of head gasket. stuff works and my tuner swears by it.
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Re: AFM/DOD complete delete advice

Postby Steve.S [OP] » Oct 17 2017, 11:43pm

Can't quite see the pickup retainer bolt. I will be resuming the rebuild this weekend. What size is that Bolt? Heads get to go back for machining :/ The shop left dings on the bottom side of the heads ranging from .003 to .010...IMO these need to be redone before proceeding.
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Firing on 5 cylinders [L1]
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Re: AFM/DOD complete delete advice

Postby Z71nTexas » Oct 18 2017, 2:03am

Steve.S wrote:Can't quite see the pickup retainer bolt. I will be resuming the rebuild this weekend. What size is that Bolt? Heads get to go back for machining :/ The shop left dings on the bottom side of the heads ranging from .003 to .010...IMO these need to be redone before proceeding.

I think that pick-up bolt head is a 10mm...there are two bolt holes but the one that would be easy to get to doesnt have a bolt (figures GM). You have to have a oversize washer to make it flush against the lip of the pick-up tube. I will post a pic so you can see how I did it. Without dropping pan...you can't get that underside bolt back in.

So the shop pulled the heads and damaged them? Post some pics of the dings...copper spray is a pretty good at sealing blemishes.

Some other stuff that you may need to replace that doesn't come with kit.
Intake manifold gaskets
Valve cover gaskets
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