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Solid axle swap

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70K views 292 replies 29 participants last post by  BogginChevy  
#1 ·
So i think i may have come to terms that I dont like my IFS lift.. (its the height i want yes--8") and it does its function..

But i was just recently offerd (last couple of days) a fully rebuild Dana 44 8 lug, driver side drop front axle for $300, and its $80 a spring for the front lift (leaf spring) and sadly around $800 to my door for the brackets

I am wondering if anyone here has accomplished a solid axle swap? and besides cross over steeering and doing the brakes: is there anything else ill need?

I am lso wondering how to get around the wheel speed sensors in front.. any idea?
 
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#2 ·
I say do it - I did it on two Toyota's and it was a blast, of course I wheeled the piss out of them A D44 is not that much stronger than the IFS but you can recoup your money for all the steering components you will need by selling your IFS lift. It looks like your an 05 so should be straight forward and from where you are you probably will total around 2k to done if those 800 are accurate.

Big question, can you weld? Do you have driveline shop around there to extend your shaft, close to alignmetn shop? There is quite a bit of welding involved and even with bolt on kits, i would still weld...

I would shy away from the 8 lug though...
 
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#3 ·
I swapped a 14 bolt in the rear (8 lug) and the bracket kit is completely bolt on with just drilling and grinind (i can do plenty of that.. I am going to talk with sky manufacturering because these 2 places kits look similar and are far apart in price.... (skys is $450)

but for a fully rebuild dana 44 for $300 is an awesome price

and if i unbolt the IFS stuff (which is like 2 hours at most...its super easy to rid of the lift and front end..couple bolts and its out..

I want to do it because of the issues im having with the front end... its a perfect lift and brannd new front end its just sad that i didnt do this earlier

once its bolted on i can have a few stitch welds added for strength
 
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#4 ·
Ok, I would suggest Not unbolting it then - I just cut mine out with cutting torch, checked about 10 times to ensure i was only cutting what was necessary. Since yoru going Leaf you can cut ALOT out and then grind it down. Stitch welds will be fine. I want to do my 07 NNBS but will wait till there is a mainstreamed steering setup done for it. Truck isn't going anywhere, I'm about to refi so will lock it in for 5-6 more years to get the note down.

So I"m sure it will be SAS and progably Hydro steering but not in a hurry. Go for it since your already 8 lug in the rear.
 
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#8 ·
Ill have to wait till he pulls the axle out of his truck, for some reason he thinks puting in 1/2 ton axles is better then what hes got..

good for me...so i wont say anything.....i can just swap my 4.10's back in the rear when i do ( thank go i saved them) and his front is 4.11 so no need to swap gears there-- (so close in gear it doesnt matter)

and the axle is king pin with a High pinion and all i will have to do is at minimum swap out a conversion u-joint.

since i already have a "spare" 35 x 12.5 x 15 mounted on 15x 10's with 2.5" of back space, i will only have to get 1 rim and tire...( money saved there) and maybe sell my other 35's if they are still good to recuperate the money..

( im still trying to sell my 20" rims and 275/55/20's---from the IFS)

The IFS lift kit will be forsale (actually the whole front end will be forsale--for anyone looking to do a lift kit and new parts including differential__they will be in the for sale section at some point.

I am not sure what cross over steering i want to use yet..since this is a budget build (and i dont want to spend $10k more )
 
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#10 ·
Good on you man, for the absolute most information on this hit up Pirate4x4 but DO NOT just go in and ask a general question. Every Single Thing you want ot know can be found with the search button. I have been a member there since 2001, and it's a wealth of knowledge for SAS and anything Extreme. Good luck, and assuming you had some ball-joints go or something?
 
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#13 ·
What's the length on them and what hangar kit are you going to use or you fabbing up your own?
 
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#15 ·
Man, that's going to be a stiff ride wiht a 6 inch spring, + the probably 3 inches built into the hangar, and only a 47" spring not to mention the added lift from a rear shackle.

How much lift are you wanting overall? I'm thinking with that setup your going to be looking at 10" in the front not knowing that hangar kit your using.
 
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#16 ·
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#18 ·
yes its that one @ 4wdfactory.com..

it might be stiff but its what the kit recommends so im gunna go with it..im hoping for 9"-10" of lift...

im running out of axle choices.. i keep coming up empty... i may have to bite the bullet and pnoy up to my buddies...... its just sooo much money for an axle

and to still need brake lines, driveshaft, misc. and steering
 
#20 ·
everytime io find one either the guy backs out, or wants all the money or they need serious work...

t hey might be plentiful in the south but ive contacted every craigslist add about axles and im coming up short

they should be around $800 or less for a decent axle..

my so called friend is ripping me off cause he knows i need an axle
 
#21 ·
So i am at a choosing cross roads.

I can :

A) Use a GM dANA 60 that I can get for $600 but needs an axle shaft and spring perch. but it does have an axle truss on it and high steer arms already, along with new knuckles and the other axle shaft is new--but need to find an NP241 (that isnt easy to do out here)..also has link mounts that need to coe off

B) travel 100 miles (each way) and get a Ford DANA 60 (comes in a pair and he wont separate) for $1000 and needs calipers, and a u-joint..nothing fancy on it

or C) buy my buddies DANA 60 for $1500 that is near perfect and comes with all the plates and even the U-bolts (and i know u-bolts shouldnt be used again)..taken out and delivered to me

here are pictures of the GM DANA 60:







 
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#22 ·
GM looks like questionable welds, like they tdidn't think about heat while doing them on the axle shafts, not to mention your probably going to have take all that off and rotate the axle and then throw in the new transfer case = I would'nt do it.

The Fords - Buy them both and Sell one - no brainer to me -100 miles is nothing if you can have a good axle out of it that you bolt in and go.

The 1500 axle - doesn't sound like much of a friend, obviously there isn't a big market for these types of items out there, so he's holding you to the coals. Personally, I would spend 1500 for a Built axle, but taht would mean, Superior/Moser axles, 33 spline, locker of some sort or at least LSD, Good hub locks on the outside, brakes complete, and lug pattern matching front and back for me would be a big deal as well...

All said, you would probably be 6-700 into the Ford Axles if you got them after selling the other axle, the GM will need another 150+ to get it ready, and either of those will still put you ~650-800 bucks cheaper than your buddies Built axle...
 
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#23 ·
Those Hi-Steer Arms on the GM are worth quite a bit though - so that plays into the purchase for me as well...

Can you weld or would you have to take the axle somewhere to get the last spring pad welded on?
 
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#24 ·
I would have take my axle to get anything welded on...which sucks

yeah the steer arms are included in the price. but again i would have to cut most of it off and and do some welding.. The Gm axle does have a locker in it.

with the ford axle (the $!000) dollar one would be fine, though id have to put a u-joint in it, put calipers on it, and deal with the other axle ( there are quite a few dana 60 rear axles on craigslist here ..

still a tough decision for me.........i know im getting ripped off on my buddies axle... the Gm one requires just too much to make it work, even though its out of a CUCV 1 1/4 ton
 
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#25 ·
WEll, with the Ford axles - you could throw the 60 in the rear and have matching 60's and matching Gear ratios...

And they are beef, unless your running a 14bolt in the rear it would be an upgrade...

If your running a 10bolt rear on your truck currently you can sell it for 250-600 depending on it's condition.

Dual 60's would be badass...

Sounds like the GM is a no go, so it's down to the Ford or your buddies.

Offer your buddy 1000 cash...
 
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#26 ·
I already have a built 14 bolt in the back (with axle truss, pinion guard, dick brakes, and bad ass anti-wrap perches), so the rear dana 60 is worthless to me.. my 14 bolt is much stronger then a dana 60 rear

i have already tried to talk my buddy down, he wont budge on the price...

so its a $1000 dollar dana 60 that needs calipers and a u-joint

or

a $1500 dana 60 that doesnt need anything and has gloss paint on it

WTH
 
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