This has been an ongoing issue with my 2008 Silverado 1500. I'll give a run through everything and get to the point.
CEL came on, I did not get the codes checked right away. After maybe 50 miles driven after it came on, it started to run a little rough. I checked the codes P0050, P0059, P0155 -- all related to B2S1 heater circuit. I replaced the 02 sensor with an Amazon cheapy (mistake) and it ran fine for a day or so, and then started misfiring bad. All misfires were on Bank 2, same as the bad sensor. Testing the heater wires on the original failed sensor and the failed amazon sensor, there was no continuity on the circuit, so the heater had burned up on both. For a quick test, I put the known-good OE sensor I had taken out of Bank 1 -- circuit had continuity, resistance tested between 10-20 ohms on that one. It cleared the code and ran fine for a while. Then it threw the codes again and the issues returned. I took that sensor off and tested the resistance, it was not open but it was lower than before, in the 6-8 ohm range. At this point I bought a Walker brand sensor from O'Reilly's -- and a new MAF sensor because I saw it mentioned a few times. (fyi I also replaced the amazon sensor i had put on Bank 1 because I didn't trust it). After those were installed it had no codes and ran great for a little more than 3 weeks, which brings me to where I am now, with the codes and misfires returning. I checked the resistance on the Walker sensor that is installed and it was 3-5 ohms.
I checked the heater circuit terminals on the wire harness with key on Run (engine off) and it is running 12 volts as it should. I have tested the positive wires for a short to ground and didn't find anything. Both fuses related to the 02 sensors are good.
At this point, I will have to do another replacement but I would be doing so with the expectation of failure in at some point. I have been told that I should get the GM genuine sensor, as all the aftermarket ones are prone to fail -- some more than others. I hate to spend the money on that sensor if there is something else causing the heater circuit to burn up.
What I think my next step will be:
I have the pinout information for the control modules and plan to run new wires directly from the modules to the sensor plug -- to eliminate the chance of an intermittent short that I didn't fine through testing but is happening when the truck moves around. Couple that with a new sensor and I will see what happens.
I wondered if anyone else had thoughts on this or had seen this issue. Am I on the right track?
Could it really be as simple as cheaper aftermarket sensors not being durable and prone to failure?
CEL came on, I did not get the codes checked right away. After maybe 50 miles driven after it came on, it started to run a little rough. I checked the codes P0050, P0059, P0155 -- all related to B2S1 heater circuit. I replaced the 02 sensor with an Amazon cheapy (mistake) and it ran fine for a day or so, and then started misfiring bad. All misfires were on Bank 2, same as the bad sensor. Testing the heater wires on the original failed sensor and the failed amazon sensor, there was no continuity on the circuit, so the heater had burned up on both. For a quick test, I put the known-good OE sensor I had taken out of Bank 1 -- circuit had continuity, resistance tested between 10-20 ohms on that one. It cleared the code and ran fine for a while. Then it threw the codes again and the issues returned. I took that sensor off and tested the resistance, it was not open but it was lower than before, in the 6-8 ohm range. At this point I bought a Walker brand sensor from O'Reilly's -- and a new MAF sensor because I saw it mentioned a few times. (fyi I also replaced the amazon sensor i had put on Bank 1 because I didn't trust it). After those were installed it had no codes and ran great for a little more than 3 weeks, which brings me to where I am now, with the codes and misfires returning. I checked the resistance on the Walker sensor that is installed and it was 3-5 ohms.
I checked the heater circuit terminals on the wire harness with key on Run (engine off) and it is running 12 volts as it should. I have tested the positive wires for a short to ground and didn't find anything. Both fuses related to the 02 sensors are good.
At this point, I will have to do another replacement but I would be doing so with the expectation of failure in at some point. I have been told that I should get the GM genuine sensor, as all the aftermarket ones are prone to fail -- some more than others. I hate to spend the money on that sensor if there is something else causing the heater circuit to burn up.
What I think my next step will be:
I have the pinout information for the control modules and plan to run new wires directly from the modules to the sensor plug -- to eliminate the chance of an intermittent short that I didn't fine through testing but is happening when the truck moves around. Couple that with a new sensor and I will see what happens.
I wondered if anyone else had thoughts on this or had seen this issue. Am I on the right track?
Could it really be as simple as cheaper aftermarket sensors not being durable and prone to failure?
