Are you planning to have the power to your accessories always hot or only with ignition on/retained power accessories? If associated with key on, you can find a trigger wire for power relays in the junction box in the drivers footwell. The GM upfitter guide below has more information where power (5-10 amps) is available in the ICEM.

https://www.gmupfitter.com/files/media/ ... n_115c.pdf

If the 2014+ are like the older generations, the underhood fuse block will have a post for accessories. The max amps would be listed on the box cover. I would use that for the 8g wire if your accessories will draw less than that. My second choice would be directly to the battery terminal. If you go directly to the battery, I would want to place a large inline fuse within a foot of battery, similar to car audio power wires (in case a short happens between your distribution block and the battery).

 

My 2013 has a MBEC panel to tie into you likely have the same or similar in yours. Take a look at the following thread.

Bob

How To: Using the MBEC for Powered Accessories

 

You can pull power from the battery. On the NNBS trucks, there is a terminal outside the underhood fuse box that is hot 12v and you can tap in there. That is what I did on my 2013 and I used a fuse terminal block just like yours. You will want to put a fuse between the 12v source and the terminal block. I used a 30 amp and that should be plenty for most things even if you use the terminal block to power several items. But, you could use a fuse all the way up to 100 if that is what your box is rated for.

If you choose to use the MBEC for the power source, keep in mind the most you want to pull from that is 30 amps total. So if you potentially have more than 30 amps total being drawn from the fused terminal block at any one time, that won't be a good source for your 12V+.

 

@HorizontalHunter & esox07 as the writer of the GMT-900 guide that was linked to, I can tell you that the K2 "ICEM" doesn't have as high of amps available as the GMT-900 "MBEC". The GM Upfitter guide I linked to above has 2 x 5a, 1 x10a, and 1 x 15a. GM marked most of the upfitter pins as for use with a relay and not for direct power of accessories. I highly recommend following their instruction to avoid damaging sensitive electrical components like the BCM.

The guide for the older trucks does not apply.

 

I agree. I would tap into the 12v+ off the battery or the terminal on the fuse block as I suggested.

 

I don't see a terminal on the fuse block, I will be putting in an in line fuse and just going directly off the battery then, the only thing that's on with the ignition will be the radio, but that has it's own fuse tap to a relay to turn it on and off but has constant power so can be used with the ignition being on.

Thanks for tips.

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Thanks for the tips I ended up running a 10 awg main power under the rear seat to the fuse block and used that to distribute power for the radio and siren/light Control.

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Remote head radio?

I don't check this page often enough but radio is actually what I do for a living (and occasionally full upfits). GM's are typically fairly straight forward. Power off the power distribution accessory lug under the hood and run pull ignition internally (I seem to remember a fuse labeled RAP inside the K2's).

I've actually got two power runs on my pickup (GMT900). One goes to the rear block from the battery) and powers the VHF radio, siren (which is actually a radio accessory) and is setup to also power a BDA but it's never been installed. The other comes off the underhood power distribution block and is currently hidden behind the dash. It's for an additional block to power the VHF control head as well as a UHF, 7/800 MHz radios and accessories (lights, portable battery chargers). Except for the VHF stuff, nothing else is currently installed (planned in the next couple of months though).

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Yeah remote head. Single power block under the rear seat. Only needed power for radio and siren/light controls.

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