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2001 2500HD Would you buy?

3.3K views 24 replies 8 participants last post by  amonslow  
#1 ·
So I have a friend at work that bought a 2001 Chevy 2500HD 6.6L 4x4 Ext cab SB about 3 years ago with 236K for around $8,000. He wants a 2006 that popped up for sale and seems mildly desperate to sell the 2001 off. The truck has been sitting in his barn for most of its time under his ownership. My question is would you buy it for $2500 knowing the following? (I can wait him out and possibly get cheaper)

Bubbles in radiator (blown head gasket)
Truck did not overheat though?????? In fact it ran cold around 160deg even after new water pump, thermostat and believe radiator.
Engine top end is not tore down.
Tranny (Auto 4spd) has gone into limp mode 3rd gear on the owner before it was parked but not sure if tranny problem or because of engine problem.
Body has typical rocker panel cancer.

My goal here is a vehicle that will NOT be a goto work vehicle or family hauler but strictly used for towing of 32ft 5400lb camper, 7x12 enclosed trailer and maybe a car hauler down the road.

What would you do?
 
#2 ·
Welcome to the forum

Being an LB7, I would definitely be highly suspect of a head gasket failure.

Injectors are also a fairly common failure point on those. I would say with that amount of miles they would have been replaced at least once before.

At $2500, you might be able to make a decent truck out of it.

The rust would be my biggest issue with it. How solid is the frame?

If you can do the work yourself, the head gaskets and injectors aren't too hard. Just a lot of work. Gaskets arent really expensive. I'd head stud it while your in there.

The LB7 is a good motor once you understand its weak points. Once those are addressed they can be great. They now make newer style injectors that provide a longer life span.
 
#3 ·
Frame is solid. Just has the stereotypical salt belt cancer. I can indeed do the work myself. The body rust itself is not a deal breaker for me since its a truck for hauling. I dont need a show truck. If head gaskets and injectors are the weak point of this engine then thats not much of a problem for me financially and down time to fix. I have a friend that rebuilds diesels for a living and worse case scenario I can plop the truck down in his drive and he will hook me up. Im not afraid of dumping A grand or two in the engine to fix known problems and make it dependable. How many miles would a typical LB7 get before its knockin on heavens door?
 
#4 ·
It's more than a grand or two for injectors and head gaskets.

To get decent parts your looking at around $3,000-$5k in just parts depending on what you get. Injectors will run you about $1-2k depending what you get and if they are new or reman, so that's the bulk of the oarts cost.

Or, you can check and see what the balance rates are and just roll with what's in there until they fail. And do it just for the cost of the gaskets and studs.
 
#6 ·
And the plot thickens. The truck was overheating(bubbles in coolant and overflowing out tank), blowing white smoke, temp gauge must be inaccurate or sender is sitting in a pocket of steam. Luckily I can get the parts at shop price from my friend that works in a diesel shop. He works mainly on semis and fleet trucks (diesel). Is it possible to buy a used newer engine 05+ and just delete the emissions for the 01 that I want to put it in? (same long block)? I would imagine there arent many low mile 01-04 LB7 engines around now.
 
#7 ·
It would likely be cheaper to just do the head gaskets rather than swap the whole motor.

But I hope they arent still running and driving the truck. If you are intent on buying it, do not run it anymore until you fix it. How long has it been running around with this issue?

As for injectors, I wouldn't waste my money on getting them rebuilt. Usually isn't much cheaper than a good set of reman or new injectors anyway. I would buy new personally since I see reman parts be bad right out of the gate. Same can be said with new parts as well, but its WAY more common on reman.
 
#9 ·
I´d get SAC Style Injectors and all the good stuff for headgaskets.

The 5speed Allison is known for going into limp mode when too much power over stock is applied.. is the truck tuned with EFI Live or anything like that?
If the rest of the truck is decent I´d consider buying it and fix it up for 4-7k, depending on the Transmission issue.
 
#11 ·
Truck has been parked since the day my friend got it because of the white smoke and limp mode 3rd gear. So its been in a barn for almost 2-3 years. The upside is parts wont cost me near as much because I get them at shop costs because of another friend that works at a diesel shop. I most likely wont pay a shop to do the labor either. This is all assuming I buy the truck. I can walk away or not. Im not in any hurry. I dont have to have a diesel, it would just be more convenient/useful fit to my needs. Im also not worried about resale value. If I have to dump $5k in it to get a reliable truck to tow with then works fine for me. I have a 3 car garage that I can put the truck in and work on it as I can and finish next winter. I just dont want to end up having say 7K in a truck total when I could have possibly bought one for 7k that was ready to go and needed no major maintenance anytime soon. I drive them until they are dead or the frame falls in half.
 
#12 ·
Well I can basically tell you right now its going to be over $7k of parts to get it back to 100% lol.

The head gaskets and such isnt all too bad parts cost wise. It's the injectors and trans that is the expensive part.

Figure like $2k for a set of good injectors, then anywhere from $3k-5k to build the trans so its able to hold power. Then factor in parts for the head gaskets and all other little things you find or break along the way.

It's not a cheap endeavor. But, if you can get the truck dirt cheap is may still work out.

You will not find a perfect running/driving condition duramax of any year for $7k. At least not one that's worth having imo. At that price range they are going to need some work. Or have outrageously high miles and/or rust.
 
#14 ·
Only one way to find out price everything and see what you would be into it for based on what you know needs done then add 1-2k extra and see if its worth it. Or just do it and let us know ha
 
#15 ·
Yeah if you go the referb or reman. I would never trust those in any vehicle I own. New or nothing. I've had so many reman injectors and pumps fail at work I'd have to be insane to even consider putting them in anything I own Haha.
 
#17 ·
Sounds to me like you have already made up your mind since you are relying on the shop discounts, buddies etc. even though you don't specify how much they are. So, go get it, fix it and let us know the final tally.

I don't think it'll be worth it, but I've been wrong before.
 
#19 ·
19trax95 said:
New are still available.

Here's from OPs own link.
Interesting. I haven't been around them for some time. I first upgraded to an 07, and now have a gas truck.. Granted you will pay almost 3 grand just for the injectors, probably will make it a 5 grand job to have done, so he is already over the value of the truck.
 
#20 ·
tsuintx said:
Sounds to me like you have already made up your mind since you are relying on the shop discounts, buddies etc. even though you don't specify how much they are. So, go get it, fix it and let us know the final tally.

I don't think it'll be worth it, but I've been wrong before.
Nope, havent made up my mind. Shop prices for parts are typically 1/2 to 3/4 of price you would find online at specialy online parts suppliers for like and kind (oem rebuilt/new/reman parts).

So my question for all is how much would you pay if you were in need of a truck to tow with that was old as the first year of the duramax? I honestly believe its a plus not to have all the emission crap that the newer models have. Atleast from a maintenance and cost for those parts aspect. Lets assume there is a 2001 out there with 235k with fresh remanned injectors, remanned heads and new head gaskets and running great. 4x4 LT ext. cab. Body good but obviously not perfect.

What say the crew?
 
#21 ·
Any body rust at all I personally wouldnt even consider it. I've dealt with it on my first 2 trucks. Never again.

But for a 100% good mechanical condition LB7, with rust and high milage I wouldnt value it over $8k.

It isnt more valuable just becasue it doesnt have emissions. Especially being an LB7, they are probably the most finicky and problematic duramaxes out there. Once you know that and fix them, they can be great motors. But they are still a pain to work on since the injectors are under the valve covers. And will fill your crankcase with fuel without you knowing if there is an issue with the injectors or lines.

Really all the duramax motors in the gmt800 trucks are either emissions free or easy to get rid of it. It's only an egr cooler even on the latest one you can get, the LBZ. You can delete them without a tune even. Youd just have a CEL.

The insanely inflated prices of the LBZ trucks is unwarranted and is mainly due to people thinking they are something special.

But negating all the above, a refreshed LB7, including built or rebuilt trans, but bad body is only worth at the absolute most, $8k to me. And even that's pushing it imo. Mainly due to the rust.

If it was a mint condition frame and body, as well as just having fresh injectors, head gaskets, trans, etc, I would put it at around $10-12k to the right person.
 
#23 ·
Yeah and that's a cheap one. It is all too common to see an LBZ listed at anything from $20-30k.

Youd need to be stupid to pay that Haha.

Diesels arent cheap. So trying to cheap out on one isn't worth it, because chances are it will bite you.

If you want something that is reliable, diesel, and can be had sort of cheap, look into the older dodge trucks. The older cummins motors are pretty solid. It's just the rest of the truck that is garbage. And transmissions that get eaten like candy until you put money into them. But the motors are pretty trouble free and easy to work on.

But again, people think a clean one is worth a million dollars.
 
#25 ·
Hello. im new on here. I just wanted to throw in I recently purchased a 2002 lb7 2500hd crew cab for $4000. It needed injectors. I did a lot of research on mine regarding injectors. The injectors direct you pointed out for injectors seem to have terrible reviews as far as quality goes. I looked into buying Bosch oem remans but they are $2000 and you can get brand new Bosch for $2300. The S&S style injectors run $2700. The S&S style are supposed to be the best injector upgrade. I didnt want to throw that kind of money out. I only paid $4k for my truck. I ended up going with a rebuild service i found on Ebay for $670. They are an injector shop and had really good reviews. I had to take all of my injectors out and send them to them. The injectors were basically remanufactured to oem specs like bosch. My injectors had all new internal parts and came back like new. I would suggest something like that. It worked out for me. Just an FYI this is a very tedious job. I followed a video on youtube to help me out by truckmaster. you will also want to replace the valve cover bolts because the originals are prone to rounding out. You will also want to buy new return line banjo bolts and fuel injection o rings and injector lines. All said and done you would be about $900 into everything. So im about $5k into a good running diesel truck. You cant touch these for less than $8k. And will need injectors done at some point. Good luck