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2015 2500HD Towing Capacity ?

49K views 21 replies 13 participants last post by  Elbert  
#1 ·
We are planning on getting a travel trailer soon and I bought a 2015 2500HD Crewcab standard box/6.0L V8/6 speed/4:10 with the trailer package so we would could keep our trailer size options open. Now I am looking for the safe max weight I can tow.
My confusion comes with the ratings on the door jam of the truck and what is in my manual. The sticker on the door jam states a GVWR of 9500lbs, but the manual states trailer weight of 13,000lbs or a GCWR of 20,500lbs.
Any help explaining my max trailer rating would be great.
 
#2 ·
I believe the new 2500HD's are rated up to 14,000 lbs towing.
But if your manual says 13,000 lbs, then go with that. Anything you put in the truck will deduct from that 13,000 lbs. Legally speaking your gross combined weight rating cannot exceed 26,000 lbs.Thats your trucks 9500 plus whatever the trailer's registered gvw is. The registered gvw of the trailer is what it can weigh fully loaded.
You can get a pretty big fifth wheel and still stay under 12,000 lbs. A 12,000 lbs trailer is about where I would want to be if I were towing long distances as the 6.0 can handle that pretty easily. But if I weren't going too far I would haul something up to 15,000 lbs as that's what I'm doing now but my tows don't usually go farther than 60 miles at that weight and I knock it down to about 12,000 lbs when Im going distance. The truck itself handles 15,000 lbs fine but at that weight its dropping way down on steep hills.
Your gonna probably get a lot of basement lawyers coming out saying that you'd get sued if you exceed a towing capacity and hit someone. In such a scenario, your either at fault or your not, having a heavy trailer doesn't change who caused an accident. Truth of the matter is, that towing capacity isn't a legal term at all. Its nothing more than a recommended number from the manufacturer. But its a number most people should follow.
The numbers that the law cares about is the registered GVW on your registration. That's what they'd care about if you were somehow scaled which is very rare. They care about what your truck's registered GVW is, and what the trailers registered GVW is, and if either one is exceeded. And the real reason they care is because your registration cost is heavily influenced by the GVW of the vehicle. Higher GVW, higher cost. They don't give a damn if you want to wear out your truck, they want to make sure they're getting paid.
 
#3 ·
I also want to add that the reason is says GCWR of 20,500 is because if you loaded the hell out of your truck, say with bricks, then the biggest trailer you should tow is 11,000 lbs.
Since your truck can be legally loaded to 9500 lbs, 20,500 - 9,500 is 11,000.
But assuming your trucks curb weight is 6,500. 20,500 - 6500 is 14,000.
 
#4 ·
Thanks as that confirms my thoughts.
Now I am trying to decide on a 5th wheel over a conventional hitch RV. The 5th wheel will get me to 14klbs and I have the Standard box so I should be fine there.
I have never towed with a 5th wheel, but hear they are more stable and ride better.
I hate to loose the storage in my truck bed, but I think I can make up with the extra storage room in the 5th wheel trailer.
Anyone have any thoughts or recommendations.
 
#6 ·
I would go with a conventional. Look at the sticker on the door and see what it says is the allowable weight you can add (9500 - truck weight). You will find it is probably around 2,000 - 2,500 pounds. A 10,000 pound 5th wheel pin weight will be around that weight, meaning you could exceed the truck weight with you and no fuel. A 10,000 pound conventional trailer will be a little over 1,000 pounds on your truck.

Mark
 
#7 ·
Just for towing habits I like 5th wheels better. I just prefer the way they tow better than a standard hitch trailer. I've also found backing them up I'd easier too.

But you'd also need to have a hitch in the bed, which I'm not too fond of personally. Luckily work had dedicated trucks with flat beds on them specific for pulling trailers.
 
#8 ·
I just purchased a 2010 2500HD 6.0 for the same purpose. I did quite a bit of research and decided to go with the TT over the 5th wheel. Both have there pros and cons though, and here are some that helped me decide.

Travel Trailer
Pros:
-Keep bed of truck, with a topper, that's a huge amount of dry storage lost with a 5er. Also, having gear in bed allows for less tow weight. This can be a positive or negative, dependent on where you need a little less weight.
-Better gas mileage. 5ers are substantially taller and create more drag, in effect, generally speaking you lose mpgs with 5er
-Sharper turning radius, with the pivot point behind the truck, it allows the trailer to react to turns of the steering wheel sooner than a 5er.
-Lighter weight generally speaking. Not a huge issue with a 3/4 ton, but the less weight the better mpgs
-Less expensive generally

Cons:
-More trailer sway. Though sway can be entirely eliminated with a Hensley Hitch, or lessened substantially with a friction based hitch like an Equalizer.
-Companies seem to be notoriously more well known for using cheaper crap in TTs partly due to the the idea of getting them as light as possible. Just have to do your research for which ones use quality materials throughout.
-Longer footprint for same interior length
-Mainly 30 Amp Power

5th Wheel
Pros:
-Generally more room and open floor plan.
-Higher ceilings, allow room for a ceiling fan in most units.
-Larger, if not full size appliances.
-Typically have a better build quality, but still don't get your hopes up too much.
-Generically speaking, better insulation and construction for 4-seasonability.
-Most have 2 AC Units, and are wired for 50 amp power. (This is my favorite thing about 5ers, and I wish I could have found a TT that fit my criteria, and also had 50 amp.) For reference 30 Amp power is good for about 3600 Watts, while 50 Amp power is good for about 12,000 Watts. This allows the ability to run a lot more appliances at once. A/C, Microwave, Coffeepot etc. Having 2 AC units without 50 amp power is pushing it, and you wouldnt be able to run anything else while theyre running.
-some say its an "easier" tow, seems to be matter of opinion though

Cons:
-Have to put holes in bed of truck
-Can't use bed for storage
-Less MPGs
-Taller unit might be a pain in some wooded RV parks/lower underpasses.
-Heavier
More expensive
-Larger turn radius

I know I'm missing a bunch of things, but I'm tired. It all depends on what your needs are. Figure out the most important qualities that you want in your trailer are and then let the research commence. There will always be sacrifices, as I don't think the "perfect trailer" exists. Well maybe it does, just not anywhere close to my price point. Anyways, hope this helped in some way.
 
#9 ·
You have to same truck as me,Use this calculator.
http://changingears.com/rv-sec-calc-tra ... t-tt.shtml

I inputed all of my trucks information a while back.
Bumper pull max towing was around 14k pounds
5th wheel max towing was around 10k pounds

But my owners manual states I can pull a 14k 5th wheel or a 12k bumper pull what gives?

In a perfect world that maybe true,however we do not live in one 5th wheels generally have a 20 to 25% pin weight,while bumper pulls generally have a 10 to 15% tounge weight.

So what does that mean?

Well a 10k 5th wheel will transfer 2k to 2.5k pounds of weight to your truck(AkA pin weight).Depelting your payload capacity.A 14K bumper pull will transfer 1.4K to 2.1K pounds to your truck(Aka tounge weight).

Also never trust the generic pin or tounge weight supplied by the trailer manufacture.These numbers are generally lower than real world.Plus they do not include gear,camping equipment,battery's,water ect.
 
#10 ·
One thing not mentioned with conventional towing vs 5th wheel towing is that conventional towed trailers track more in line with the tow vehicle on turns. 5th wheel/gooseneck trailers require wider turns. Aside from that, I like the way gooseneck/5th trailer tow, by far.
Theres usually less to figure out, and its more stable with no swaying.
Assuming a 20% pin weight, you shouldn't have a problem handing a 14,000 lbs 5th wheel.
Towing a trailer that heavy with a conventional hookup will (by far) need an equalizer hitch and that's going to need adjusting.
You don't need to worry about hogging up your bed if you use a B&W hitch. My truck has the B&M turnover ball. I can pull the ball out by releasing a lever, and drop in the B&W 5th wheel companion hitch. When I am done towing, the companion hitch comes out and the bed is flat.
When it comes to heavy towing, I vote for 5th/gooseneck hookup every time. If I were going to want a conventional tow, I would go with no heavier than 10,000 lbs.
 
#13 ·
Noshow said:
This is my outfit, 34' trailer and about 7000lbs.
? It looks like your TT tandem wheel may be carrying a bit more weight in the front 2 tires / because your TT in a bit down in the front and up in the rear ? Maybe need a Step Up Ball Mount ? to make the TT totally parallel to the ground (level) ?

I'm no expert ...
 
#15 ·
I'm set up like Noshow, 31 foot with double slides. Since trading my '05 Duramax I've only towed once since getting the new gasser, and not very far. I wasn't that impressed on it's first tow, but ready for another one. I too cussed and discussed 5th or TT. Since we don't tow that much annually, I decided to keep my bed space and stayed with TT. There are times white knuckles may occur, but keeping your eyes and mind focused on what's happening around you while towing should keep you safe. Good luck on your part on whichever trailer you decide on.
 
#16 ·
For anyone interested, check out the Hensley hitch. It's a very inventive piece of equipment, and by design, fully eliminates any possibility of trailer sway. They cost a pretty penny at around $3000 new, but they also sell them factory refurbished, and they keep the same transferable lifetime warranty. Those sell for about $2100-$2400. There are also some "clone" companies out there that sell essentially the same mechanism at a slightly lower cost. ProPride is the other main one, and their hitches sell new for around $2300. A chunk of change for sure, but in my opinion, if you're going to spend a lot of money on an item, what better place to put it than investing in you/your families/everyone else on the road's safety. It's pretty cool to see in action, here's a video demonstrating how it works.


I am in no way affiliated with Hensley, nor do I own one yet. Just purchased a TT a few weeks ago, and have been doing a bunch of research. I'm having the trailer delivered to my place in MT. Due to work, I won't be back to MT until November, and I intend on ordering a Hensley at that time.
 
#17 ·
Luke_Nukem said:
For anyone interested, check out the Hensley hitch. It's a very inventive piece of equipment, and by design, fully eliminates any possibility of trailer sway. They cost a pretty penny at around $3000 new, but they also sell them factory refurbished, and they keep the same transferable lifetime warranty. Those sell for about $2100-$2400. There are also some "clone" companies out there that sell essentially the same mechanism at a slightly lower cost. ProPride is the other main one, and their hitches sell new for around $2300. A chunk of change for sure, but in my opinion, if you're going to spend a lot of money on an item, what better place to put it than investing in you/your families/everyone else on the road's safety. It's pretty cool to see in action, here's a video demonstrating how it works.


I am in no way affiliated with Hensley, nor do I own one yet. Just purchased a TT a few weeks ago, and have been doing a bunch of research. I'm having the trailer delivered to my place in MT. Due to work, I won't be back to MT until November, and I intend on ordering a Hensley at that time.
There is a better and cheaper alternative to the Hensley.I don't run either of them but if I were going to pony out the cash I would pick the propride.
http://www.propridehitch.com/products/P ... itch-.html

Same design,beefed up in a few areas.The nice thing about the propride the hitch shank is adjustable.The Hensley you have to use there shank exchange service.
 
#18 ·
While I agree about the adjustable shank, I'm not so sure beefed up is accurate. The current Hensley seems to actually be beefed up from the current Pro Pride. The Pro Pride is using the design from the old Hensley patent, which is why they can have a "clone"Here is a PDF of an email I got from Hensley comparing the two, and talking about specifics, and what makes them different. (obviously it's not a neutral third party statement) but you can't argue the specifics that are talked about. He also included some photos which I didn't include in the PDF, if anyone is trying to decide between the two, it's worth a read. I spoke with both companies, over the phone, and by email, and personally, I felt more comfortable going with the Hensley
 

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#19 ·
freonpushr said:
I'm set up like Noshow, 31 foot with double slides. Since trading my '05 Duramax I've only towed once since getting the new gasser, and not very far. I wasn't that impressed on it's first tow, but ready for another one. I too cussed and discussed 5th or TT. Since we don't tow that much annually, I decided to keep my bed space and stayed with TT. There are times white
knuckles may occur, but keeping your eyes and mind focused on what's happening around you while towing should keep you safe. Good luck on your part on whichever trailer you decide on.
The 6.0 is no diesel but I was pleased how it handled the trailer. I'm not going to win any races but got to where I wanted to be.
 
#20 ·
Its not just diesel vs gas, its a boosted diesel vs a N/A gas. I love my 6.0. Much more "fitting" all around truck that still hauls the heavy loads, just a little slower on long grades. Im already looking forward to a newer one in about 4-5 years.
 
#21 ·
My 2015 2500 6.0L LT Z71 comes in at about 7200 lb with full tank, two people, and a couple hundred pounds of tools in the back. Put it on the scale at my local grain elevator right after buying. So that left about 2300 lb of payload to get to GVWR of 9500 lb. Total GCWR is 20,500 lb. So with pickup at GVWR, that leaves 11,000 lb left for towing. Considering part of that 9500 GVWR would be trailer weight also, 13,000 trailer would be no problem. That is what the used on the Ike Gauntlet truck test of the 2015 2500 6.0L. 13,000 lb of trailer with three people on board and 500 more lb in the bed to get to 20,500 GCWR. Did pretty darn well. Better than the Ram 6.4 that had 500 lb less.
 
#22 ·
for info on towing, google GMC trailering guide, the GMC web site is better than the Chevrolet one.

There is a PDF you can download that has a lot of good information. You also can surf over to the Chevrolet web site and check out your mode truck and compare to similar truck model/configurations to see towing capacity. But the GMC pdf document is the best I've seen on the new GM stuff.