It isn't that much more expensive to get new rotors so I just do it.

 

Welcome to the site!

As long as the rotors are within spec to turn and not reach the min. thickness, you could go for it. Just remember this makes them thinner and less able to dissipate heat more efficiently. If they are heavily rusted in between the fins and or show sings of pitting on any of the faces, I would replace them. Anymore, manufactures make anything metal on a vehicle thinner to save money and weight for more MPG.

With that many miles on the OEMs, I would feel better inside with replacing. Especially if you do any towing of large items like 5th wheel camper and the like.

 

101K on original brakes and related equipment?

 

I always replace the rotors. It's like $15 or $20 to turn and $30 to replace. Last time I turned a set of rotors they warped pretty quick and I had to replace them anyway.

 

I almost always replace the rotors. By the time the pads are worn down enough to justify replacing them, chances are there is some uneven wear on the rotors that will need to be cut enough so they are right at or below minimum spec anyway.

Or if you live in the rust belt, the cooling fins inside are rusted pretty bad.

They are cheap enough that I don't even mess around with it and just get them. Not to mention there are very few shop around me that even have the lathe to cut them anymore. Only a couple of the really old school shops have them. And even then, the last I saw, they wanted like $12 or $15 per rotor to cut them.

 

Thanks for all the replies group! Yep, it's amazing, 101k on the brakes and never an issue. Dealer says there's another 10 miles but I'm not putting it off. Thanks again!
Oh, what are everyone's recommendations on performance modules, etc? Anything worth while out there for reasonable $$

Thanks!

 

Just an observation, but if you have 100 grand on the brakes in a 2500 then you are not working it hard enough!

 

I'm at ~80k on my 2013 2500HD and the original front pads are not down to 50% yet.
The rotors are HUGE compared to 1500 rotors and replacing them is not going to be cheap.
I would definitely have the rotors turned, given you got 100k miles out of them and potentially get another 100k miles if taken care of. Turning them will skim off any layer of glazing. Typically glazing occurs when the rotors get too hot and the glazing is irregular, creating a "bumpy" feel when using the brakes.

Anyways, if you do have them turned or if you replace them, make absolutely sure to BED your new rotors. Makes a world of difference long-term.

https://baer.com/site_images/Rotor%20Se ... edding.pdf

 

if the truck isn't pulsing or pulling when you brake and there isn't any sign of abnormal wear why even bother replacing rotors? When I replaced my pads on mine I didn't do rotors and have had zero noticeable issues.

 

What I do is get a new set, then have the old rotors turned and ready for the next brake job.

 

Thanks again for the input guys. I need tp note, my truck has basically all highway miles with no heavy towing in this 100k mile period. No pulsation is going on. I just know its time.