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5.3 misfiring on cylinders 4,6,8

36K views 63 replies 15 participants last post by  jonesyfxr  
#1 ·
Recently changed my oil on my 2009 GMC Sierra 5.3 with 190xxx km on it. I changed it with royal purple and it was fine for about 2 days till I found out I was burning oil. Didn't think anything about it till 4 days after on my birthday the truck backfired and lost all power. I started it back up and it runs very rough code reader says misfire in #4 but when I used a heat gun to read the exhaust manifolds cylinders #1,3,5,7 and 2 run around 250 degrees and cylinders 4,6,8 are around 90 degrees. It burns huge clouds of oil now when I'm driving and I use about 1/4 tank to drive 30 km. Haven't checked compression yet. So far replaced spark plugs spark plug wires and coils. Any idea what it could be ?
Thanks in advance
Chris
 
#2 ·
As I said in chat, stop driving it in this condition before you really tear up your engine. I'd guess lifters / seals would be a really good starting point since you've changed out ignition components already. I know there's some qualified mechanics on the forum who will likely chime in as well.
 
#5 ·
UPSETATGM said:
Sry for your troubles but i don't have good news for you, i see you posted your mileage in KLMS so i take it your up Canada, I just went threw this on my 2010, Dead cylinder or cylinder's, no power engines toast
can I not rebuild it ??

Also update I pulled the plugs out and cylinder # 1,3,5,7 have normal use coloring on them. cylinder #4 looks like it has not burned anything cause its clean as when i put it in. cylinder # 2,6,8 plugs were black as could be. driving home today i burned about 1 liter of oil. was going to do compression but couldn't find my gauge. gotta get a new one.
 
#8 ·
Update managed to find compression tester

cylinder # 2,4,6,8,5,7 all at 180 psi
cylinder #3 170 psi
cylinder #1 175 psi

no clacking sounds so I do not think its the lifters
A mechanic friend told me that the valves just need to re seat themselves and that it might be the intake gasket.
first I am going to check the coils with a tester and make sure they are not malfunctioning.
 
#10 ·
This all happened after you used Royal Purple.....i would raise hell with them. Kiddin, sounds like a combination of a few things. Possible burnt valve and electrical issue maybe?
 
#12 ·
Im possibly thinking the miss is coming from a faulty coil. Planning on checking it today with a ignition spark tester.
It seems like everyone I ask tell me its an intake gasket leak. It is AFM and could it possibly being that system is stuck shutting down cylinders?
When I start the engine now it runs decent for about 30 seconds then the check engine light comes on along with service traction control and stabili track and starts running rough again. when i take it out of park and put it in gear forwards or reverse it starts shaking even worse and really starts puffing. But when it get put into drive and you reach higher speeds 40km/h and up the shaking goes away. im not sure if its still missing or not.
 
#16 ·
OK checked ignition sparks with a tester and i get a big blue spark at 1/2 gap so no problem with coil 2, 4, 6 ,8
when engine is cold it wont throw a code its when it gets up to operating temp it starts burning oil throws the code and starts shaking. In the shop chat most of the people tell me lifters or flat lobe on the crankshaft but those have noises that my truck does not make. There is a faint ticking sound but its done that since i bought it. it is also the same sound my dads truck makes since it was new.
 
#19 ·
I think it is a coincidence unless the oil change was botched. I am assuming you did it yourself and assuming you will vouch for it being done correctly, but I can think of no reason to blame the problem on your choice of Royal purple unless it was the wrong viscosity or something. Even an oil change with some generic 5w30 oil shouldn't be the demise of a motor after a few thousand miles.
 
#26 ·
Dealer called me back turns out its a mechanical misfire and to diagnose the problem they need a few hours to take the valve cover off and check out the problem.
So am I looking at an AFM lifter failure?
Anyone have one of these fixed ? How much will it cost me ?
Side note there replacing my throttle body for free.