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5.3L - Removing Main Bearings with Crank in Engine

14K views 16 replies 8 participants last post by  das86turbo  
#1 ·
I've watched several YouTube videos describing how to remove the main bearings with the crank in the engine. Here is one such recording for reference:

This works great, the mains came out and new ones back in easy. With the exception of the main thrust bearing (center most). I cannot get the upper half of main thrust bearing to go back in. I've checked clearances on the sides and they are ok. (looking for any points that might be causing an interference fit). I went so far as to cut a short piece out of the old main to insure alignment (I tapped this in with a brass punch), then placed the upper thrust bearing on the crank as described in the video. When I rotate the crank, the cotter pin tries to ride underneath the main thrust bearing upper half. Frustrating...

Continuing to try this over and over is the defn of insanity. Has any one done this successfully? I realize this is a very tight fit. I tried loosening the other main caps to see if I could get more clearance.

Worse case, can I remove the crank with the engine still the truck?
 
#2 ·
First, update your account's signature, with the make/model/year/engine/trim, so we know what truck you are working on.
Second, you can pull the crank in the truck, it's just not easy. You'd need to unbolt the transmission and at least move it back, so you can unbolt the flywheel and remove the rear cover/seal. It will SUCK doing the job like this.

Perhaps also indicate why you are replacing the bearings w/o doing any crankshaft inspection/measuring?
 
#3 ·
Where can I update my signature? When I look at my profile it states 1999 Silverado. Everything is greyed out. The "edit" button is not allowing me to make changes. I will continue to look. Since I posted this in the 5.3L forum figure that was implied.

I'm replacing the mains because oil pressure was low. Journal mikes out ok. I've watched several YouTube videos on rolling out the bearings and figured I give it a try. Other sources made it look easy. I can't go back. At this point I need to get the main thrust upper half in and am looking for a solution.
 
#4 ·
Click on the orange "D" icon in the upper right corner of the page (right next to the 3 vertical dots), then click on Account Settings.
On that page, click on "Signature", about midway in the list along the left side.
Fill in the signature text area, with your vehicle info, then (important) click the Save button below it.

This will append your vehicle info to the bottom of all your posts.

But your basic vehicle info now shows up under your user name, which it wasn't before.
 
#10 ·
What does your old bearings look like?
All these years messing with the LS engines, if the main bearings are worn enough to cause low oil pressure the crank journals need to be polished at minimum.
99% of the time the cam bearings are the issue with low oil pressure if the pan isnt sludged causeing a oil starvation issue.

Ive rolled bearing in at the drag strip in buddys cars with LS engines and its not fun at all. A small brass punch and small hammer is about the only way.
After doing this a couple times its much easier to just pull the engine out of the truck and put it on a stand to work on it.
 
#13 · (Edited)
Maybe you could loosen all of the main bearing caps in hopes that the crank might drop down a tiny bit. Maybe it's possible this would allow you to get the thrust bearing started in the rotation. If it did allow you to start, then I would probably snug the main caps back up (not fully torqued) and see if the bearing will continue to move into place. Then do the final torque process of the main bolts after the bearing is in place.

Edit: after loosening the mains you might have to pull or gently pry down on the crank because the friction of the pistons in the bores might hold the crank up. But, if there's any wiggle room pulling down should allow the pistons to come down a smidge. And by smidge I mean just a few thousandths of an inch if even that much
 
#14 ·
Note, there are (well, at least for the 6.0 L96 I worked on) there are side bolts into the main caps, which may or may not be in the 5.3. As well, the caps don't readily come out, GM says to use a puller on them, vs tapping them out.

And you need to replace any bolts you loosen, as they are single-use.
 
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