Texas speed has everything you'd need, as do other places. You can go with a stock profile cam or get something a little better.

It's a bit more involved on the LT based ecotec motors than it is on the LS motors, but it's not too bad if your comfortable with internal engine work.

Basically the heads need to come off, and front cover, and timing chain needs to be removed. You'll need to pull the radiator out and the grill to get the cam out. I've heard of guys dropping the crossmember out and being able to disconnect driveshafts and motor mounts and tip the engine up and a hard angle and do it, but that requires and engine crane and jack. I don't think that's how I'd do it, but I've heard it can be done.

Personally I'd rather just pull the rad pack and grill.

 

Thanks for the reply, i dont need anything better then stock. I wonder what this would cost to have done at a shop. 10 years ago i would have tackled this job. Cheers

 

All depends on the shop and area, and if they charge by a flat rate or by the hour.

I believe book time is around 30 hours labor. So if they charge book time, that's around what it'd be at whatever hourly rate they get.

It doesn't take 30 hours for a good tech though. You do need a lot more parts, and more labor on the ecotec motors though. Just because more needs to come apart compared to the vortec motors.

 

Talked to a guy that said he has done several with dropping the radiator and A/C compressor down so it doesn’t have to be removed. Disconnecting the AC would be my only concern.

 

Whoa! 30 hours labour is 3k here in canukistan plus the cost of the kit.if there wasnt so much crap to remove just to get the heads off, it wouldnt be a bad job.even to pay a shop to do it is cheaper then dealing the truck in or smoking the engine.

 

I just did this on my 2015 LT. I used a kit from Brian Tooley Racing. Great kit and they were tons of help when I had questions. I highly recommend BTR. After removing the timing cover I found that the oil pump couldn't be removed without dropping the oil pan. So timing chain was tricky but can be done with patience. I lapped valves and new valve seals. Radiator is easy to remove and good time to replace a/c since it's a pain to get to otherwise. Diablo tuner is the way to go in my opinion. The job is worth the trouble and expense. Makes a difference. Good luck.

 

thanks for the info ruger1068,how long did it take you to do this and what was the final cost? cheers

 

Had a buddy helping and it took us two full days. The parts from BTR were 760.00. Then you need belts, and fluids. Valve seals, injector seal kit....just parts store items. I was in it for about 3k. But I replaced entire a/c system(condenser, compressor, hoses and all). It can be done for around 1200.00 no problem.

 

thanks for that sir.

 

the reason i started this thread is because we have the exact same truck as mine at work,that has suffered afm failure.it only has 104,000 km on it and as lifter failure.$2200 bux later it was back on the road for a day then had another lifter fail.my own truck has had a range device on it almost from day one and im at 84,000 km.i dont want to go through that buisness since i use my truck in some pretty remote areas and am not good at walking anymore. cheers

 

Keep us posted on what you're going to do, and how it goes.

 

also the truck at work never made any long trips or had the afm disabled.its only been use in town where i imagine it went in and out of v4 and v8 mode constantly.it did however have regular oil changes at the quick lube.not sure if switching to a high end oil like amsoil would hae saved it. i use kirkland brand oil in my own changed about once a year because of the low km's i put on it.but am considering going to amsoil with all our vehicles.anyhow im going to call around to a few shops and see if anyone specializes in this kind of work.im not going to tackle this myself.

 

I had AFM deleted out by a tuner . Had to buy a license? Got 25 horsepower increase & piece of mind not worrying about lifter & engine failure

 

The AFM lifters are still in your engine and are still prone to failure. Tuning AFM off could reduce the chances of a failure, but it won't eliminate the risk. And 25 HP from a tune is highly unlikely.

 

parts and fluids to do it yourself 1500 or less.

For a shop to do it I have seen 2500-4000 quotes, depends on state/area it seems. Lot of good shops more competitive and cheaper, just one or two in a large area probably more expensive.

 

so after reading tons and tons of posts and info on this subject here is what im going to do.will continue to use my range afm delete device and not do the recomended 10,000 km oil change.truck will get the oil changed twice a year even if i only put 2000 km on it in 6 months.will also continue to use kirkland signature 0w-20 oil.my truck is basically parked in a heated garage for the winter and not driven.if i have an issue with the afm,will deal with it at that time. cheers

 

If you park it for the winter, I would suggest just doing 1 oil change annually, just before you park it. Fresh clean oil doesn't go bad just sitting there, it's old, used oil that's more of a problem sitting in the engine for extended periods of time.

 

yes i can do that no problem,plus bump up to an amsoil oil.one amsoil oil change per year wont break the bank.thanks