The drop in bedliner that came with my truck from the dealer has outlived it's time. It warps in the sun and half of the screws are gone. What's everyones favorite DIY roll on bedliner?
angelomarino10
I think I would have it professionally done by LineX if it were me. Unless you are strapped for cash. But a good quality home kit will set you back some and then there is tons of prep work to do it right. I dont know what they cost as I have never had it done. Mine came with it and I am glad as it looks well done and is thick and durable.
edit:
here are some cost by region: https://www.dualliner.com/blog/spray-in-bedliner-cost
edit:
here are some cost by region: https://www.dualliner.com/blog/spray-in-bedliner-cost
I have heard good things about raptor liner: http://www.raptorcoatings.com/us/en/hom ... OuEALw_wcB.
It is all about the prep work. I second line-x as it carrys a lifetime warranty.
It is all about the prep work. I second line-x as it carrys a lifetime warranty.
Line-X is very thick, just volume of material is impressive.
Herculiner works with 90% of the time being surface prep, but you would be spending the same amount on a Line-X job to get the same volume of material.
I had a drop-in and it was fine, but interfering with my one-piece hard tonneau.
I did the Herculiner job myself- prep was an entire day of sanding-down the glossy bed finish. It has done remarkably well, the nice thing is you can just dump another few quarts of Herculiner over it if you ever want more coverage. I cut-out and saved the floor of the drop-in liner for very rough jobs (dropping firewood of rock in from the tractor/etc).
In hindsight, I would have just done the Line-X. I DIY everything, hard to fight one's nature.
Herculiner works with 90% of the time being surface prep, but you would be spending the same amount on a Line-X job to get the same volume of material.
I had a drop-in and it was fine, but interfering with my one-piece hard tonneau.
I did the Herculiner job myself- prep was an entire day of sanding-down the glossy bed finish. It has done remarkably well, the nice thing is you can just dump another few quarts of Herculiner over it if you ever want more coverage. I cut-out and saved the floor of the drop-in liner for very rough jobs (dropping firewood of rock in from the tractor/etc).
In hindsight, I would have just done the Line-X. I DIY everything, hard to fight one's nature.
I´d suggest Line-X or Herculiner. I will be doing the DIY Herculiner soon but I suspect alot of prepping work which will be at least a day or even more depending on Bed Size.
CT2500HD described it perfect.
CT2500HD described it perfect.
There is zero comparison vs a pro bed liner vs a DYI.. However, I personally have Line-X installed in my 14. I've also personally shot Raptor on my S10 myself, and I've personally used Monster on other projects.
Pros and Cons.
Line-X is miles above any DYI product. The initial sticker shock can be jarring, but it is the best product for your money. I shot a custom color Raptor Liner in my S10. Raptor at first glance per 4 bottle kit is cheaper then Line-X, however, you'll need at least 3, 4 bottle kits to achieve the same mils thickness as Line-X. Anyone who claims over wise is wrong. I used 2 complete Raptor Kits on my S10 which is a much smaller bed then the fullsize, and it still didnt come to the same thickness as Line-X. MonstaLiner is another solid DYI product, but its just not the same as Line-X in terms of amounted needed to get the same thickness, and the durability isnt the same.
Line-X on my full size cost me around 650 installed. That also included the UV version, was a 1 day process. Dropped off in the morning, picked up in the afternoon. Could Abuse it about 2 days after the install.
3 Kits of Raptor will cost around 375$ + Another 50$ in prep materials. You will need to buy the right kind of sanding disk, and you'll need to rough up the entire bed yourself with some 80 grit paper. You'll need to wipe the whole thing down with wax and grease remover, mask it all off and shoot it with the included gun, and at least a 20gallon air compressor. However, what I loved about raptor liner was how you can adjust the air pressure to get the texture you wanted. I would dial back the pressure between 35 and 45psi for Beds for a course look. Crank it up 65-75 and get a super smooth but textured look for speaker boxes. Its a full 3 day process. Friday, strip the bed down, and prep. Saturday, shoot bed. Late Sunday afternoon, clean up and reassemble. Can't abuse it for a week while it fully cures.
You'll need 2 1/2 1 gallon kits of Monsta. Kits plus materials will put you around the 350$ mark line. Again, anyone who says 1 gallon kit is enough is wrong. You will not get the same thickness as Line-X with 1 kit. You will need to buy the right kind of sanding disk, and you'll need to rough up the entire bed yourself with some 80 grit paper. You'll need to wipe the whole thing down with wax and grease remover, and mask it all off. One of the Pros with Monsta is its roll on. However, if you use it when the ambient temperature is very warm(85+ degrees) it will cure very quickly. Thats not a bad thing, but the texture of it can look different in different areas depending on cure times. Its a full 3 day process. Saturday, roll bed. Late Sunday afternoon, clean up and reassemble. Can't abuse it for a week while it fully cures.
You can do a Raptor or Monstaliner job for sub 425$ on your own truck but its a weekend job. All the work is in the prep. Both are great products for the money. I loved how I can shoot Raptor and adjust the pressure for the texture I wanted. I loved Monsta for the ease of use with a roller. But truthfully, neither will not hold up like a line-x job.
Line-X job will be 650$ or so, but you do no work, and its done in 8 hour day and it'll last the life of the truck.
I love all 3 products for all different reasons. All 3 have positives and negatives about them. Ask me any question, because I've used all 3 for different things.
Lastly, Hurculiner, and anything you get from Autozone is absolute garbage. Do not waste your money.
Pros and Cons.
Line-X is miles above any DYI product. The initial sticker shock can be jarring, but it is the best product for your money. I shot a custom color Raptor Liner in my S10. Raptor at first glance per 4 bottle kit is cheaper then Line-X, however, you'll need at least 3, 4 bottle kits to achieve the same mils thickness as Line-X. Anyone who claims over wise is wrong. I used 2 complete Raptor Kits on my S10 which is a much smaller bed then the fullsize, and it still didnt come to the same thickness as Line-X. MonstaLiner is another solid DYI product, but its just not the same as Line-X in terms of amounted needed to get the same thickness, and the durability isnt the same.
Line-X on my full size cost me around 650 installed. That also included the UV version, was a 1 day process. Dropped off in the morning, picked up in the afternoon. Could Abuse it about 2 days after the install.
3 Kits of Raptor will cost around 375$ + Another 50$ in prep materials. You will need to buy the right kind of sanding disk, and you'll need to rough up the entire bed yourself with some 80 grit paper. You'll need to wipe the whole thing down with wax and grease remover, mask it all off and shoot it with the included gun, and at least a 20gallon air compressor. However, what I loved about raptor liner was how you can adjust the air pressure to get the texture you wanted. I would dial back the pressure between 35 and 45psi for Beds for a course look. Crank it up 65-75 and get a super smooth but textured look for speaker boxes. Its a full 3 day process. Friday, strip the bed down, and prep. Saturday, shoot bed. Late Sunday afternoon, clean up and reassemble. Can't abuse it for a week while it fully cures.
You'll need 2 1/2 1 gallon kits of Monsta. Kits plus materials will put you around the 350$ mark line. Again, anyone who says 1 gallon kit is enough is wrong. You will not get the same thickness as Line-X with 1 kit. You will need to buy the right kind of sanding disk, and you'll need to rough up the entire bed yourself with some 80 grit paper. You'll need to wipe the whole thing down with wax and grease remover, and mask it all off. One of the Pros with Monsta is its roll on. However, if you use it when the ambient temperature is very warm(85+ degrees) it will cure very quickly. Thats not a bad thing, but the texture of it can look different in different areas depending on cure times. Its a full 3 day process. Saturday, roll bed. Late Sunday afternoon, clean up and reassemble. Can't abuse it for a week while it fully cures.
You can do a Raptor or Monstaliner job for sub 425$ on your own truck but its a weekend job. All the work is in the prep. Both are great products for the money. I loved how I can shoot Raptor and adjust the pressure for the texture I wanted. I loved Monsta for the ease of use with a roller. But truthfully, neither will not hold up like a line-x job.
Line-X job will be 650$ or so, but you do no work, and its done in 8 hour day and it'll last the life of the truck.
I love all 3 products for all different reasons. All 3 have positives and negatives about them. Ask me any question, because I've used all 3 for different things.
Lastly, Hurculiner, and anything you get from Autozone is absolute garbage. Do not waste your money.
I did herculiner in my current truck and it's been ridiculously tough. Much more "grippy" than line x which I had in a previous truck.
I reluctantly watched Lowes slide a pallet of landscaping pavers in my bed and it didn't phase the herculiner one bit.
No way I'd pay for line x again.
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I reluctantly watched Lowes slide a pallet of landscaping pavers in my bed and it didn't phase the herculiner one bit.
No way I'd pay for line x again.
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That's good that you had a good experience with Herc. It's very difficult to find any technical data on these sorts of products, but I do have some of them. If you look at Herc's data and LINE-X's data, you will find that Herc really doesn't come close to the durability of LINE-X. For example, Herc's specifications show a tabor wheel abrasion (1,000 revolutions) of 30.5 grams lost while LINE-X only lost 10 grams. That means that Herc will wear over three times faster at LINE-X. But, you can go the store and buy Herc and do it yourself and save some money.
Monstaliner. If done right with a proper epoxy primer it holds up amazingly. The shop I was working for used it quite a bit. Though we had the trucks professionally sprayed with it. As was said. It is all in the prep. Monstaliner is also very popular in the off road J**p community. I personally know someone who did the tub and bars on a TJ. Rolled the TJ over on rocks while crawling and it did not scrape off the bars. That was done with Magnapoxy primer. The one big thing with most liners is to not use any standard paint thinner as it will cause bonding issues. You need to use Butanone, acetone or MEK as your solvent for cleaning. Also want to apply the bed liner with the metal being cool to the touch. If the truck has been sitting in the sun and the metal is warm. The liner products will cure faster and not adhere correctly. If you go Line X. Basically the only real option is to get the LineX Premium or Platinum. . The standard does not hold up nearly as well and is also not UV stable. So it breaks down. Tends to get a washed out gray look to it rather quickly and then becomes brittle and starts to chip off. Monstaliner can also be sprayed and air pressure adjusted for different textures. You almost have to use a Shutz gun for it though. Being as thick as it is. It will quickly block up standard spray guns. My truck has a Rhino lining that was done prior to me buying it. I've been completely disgusted with the quality of that liner. It has multiple chips missing, has started to peal in places and I'd say is just plain old junk. That and Herculiner are the only 2 that I have had consistent issues with. They look nice at first but aged quickly and became a mess that needed to be cleaned up and redone. When the time comes I will be using Monstaliner again. By far the best product I have had. Being either rolled on or sprayed is a nice advantage to me. Not sure if they still do but I know the Coast Guard used Monstaliner on the decks of some ships. Mixing in some silica sand to add a lot more grip.
Herculiner is 72% solids by weight which is about 50% solids by volume. That means that out of one gallon of Herc, 50% is actual bedliner product and 50% are solvents that evaporate away. Professional bedliners such as LINE-X, Rhino, etc. spray in about 8 gallons (solvent free) in as short bed. So, to get the same from Herc, you would need to by about 16 gallons of Herc which is about $1,600.
Regarding Fisger8new's comments: Standard LINE-X (as well as most Rhino products) is an aromatic product meaning that it can lose its pigment due to UV light from the sun. They do NOT become brittle or lose any other attributes. Aliphatic products (LINE-X Premium, LINE-X Platinum, LINE-X Ultra, Rhino SolarMax) are UV protected and will hold their pigment much longer. Herculiner is aromatic and loses it color WAY faster than the other aromatic products mentioned above.
Regarding Fisger8new's comments: Standard LINE-X (as well as most Rhino products) is an aromatic product meaning that it can lose its pigment due to UV light from the sun. They do NOT become brittle or lose any other attributes. Aliphatic products (LINE-X Premium, LINE-X Platinum, LINE-X Ultra, Rhino SolarMax) are UV protected and will hold their pigment much longer. Herculiner is aromatic and loses it color WAY faster than the other aromatic products mentioned above.
Herculiner HCL1B8 Brush-on Bed Liner Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002TDUW4/re ... eBbWGGJPZQ
All day long
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All day long
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Yeah. Still not real world data. There's more than paperwork involved in real world data. Not a lab in Pennsylvania.Zone said:
Why would my profession obligate me to provide your reference for this conversation ?
Still not a sound platform to compare 16 gallons of herculiner to 1 gallon of line x. Step back and think about that.
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Back to the topic, I have sprayed on Als Liner and have been very impressed with its texture, grip, and durability. The gun clean up was easy, just let it dry in the gun and peel it out. Prep was easy with the rotary tool, and scuff pads. Lastly, it looks like a pro job, YMMV.
I thought I'd throw a few more cents into the discussion.
I did the roll on bedliner myself in my old Ford Ranger truck. I had to do it twice. The first time I used Duplicolors https://4wdlife.com/best-roll-on-truck-bedliners#2 . It started to peel off so I then removed what was left of it and then used herculiner. The herculiner held up I didn't have any peeling. I also used it on the lower part of the body after repairing some rust. It worked well enough I used it again on my next truck, a Ford F-150. I didn't have any peeling on that truck either. The only problem I had was that it started to fade really quick. At the time they sold a UV protectant top coat made by Herculiner. I applied this and it looked like new again and never faded again. I had it on this truck for about 8 years. I did have a bed cover on it and a rubber bed mat.
The prep work of the bed surfaces is what makes it last. You have to make sure it is really clean, every square inch and nook and cranny. Then you have to scuff the paint so there is no glossy parts left. I used a 3m scuff pad made for this purpose. If you have any bare metal, sand it and coat with a good primer/sealer. After all this you clean again with a good wax/grease remover, I used a PPG product. Most of the time it takes to do this job is the prep work. It's not a 2 hour job, I don't remember how long it took me it was a long time ago.
Would I do it again? Probably not, even though it worked for me and looked good. It is pretty thin once put on, more like a textured paint. This was all I could afford back then. I would do the line-x product.
I did the roll on bedliner myself in my old Ford Ranger truck. I had to do it twice. The first time I used Duplicolors https://4wdlife.com/best-roll-on-truck-bedliners#2 . It started to peel off so I then removed what was left of it and then used herculiner. The herculiner held up I didn't have any peeling. I also used it on the lower part of the body after repairing some rust. It worked well enough I used it again on my next truck, a Ford F-150. I didn't have any peeling on that truck either. The only problem I had was that it started to fade really quick. At the time they sold a UV protectant top coat made by Herculiner. I applied this and it looked like new again and never faded again. I had it on this truck for about 8 years. I did have a bed cover on it and a rubber bed mat.
The prep work of the bed surfaces is what makes it last. You have to make sure it is really clean, every square inch and nook and cranny. Then you have to scuff the paint so there is no glossy parts left. I used a 3m scuff pad made for this purpose. If you have any bare metal, sand it and coat with a good primer/sealer. After all this you clean again with a good wax/grease remover, I used a PPG product. Most of the time it takes to do this job is the prep work. It's not a 2 hour job, I don't remember how long it took me it was a long time ago.
Would I do it again? Probably not, even though it worked for me and looked good. It is pretty thin once put on, more like a textured paint. This was all I could afford back then. I would do the line-x product.
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