I'll look in a bit. Are you using a GM filter? We as In GM is having issues with aftermarket filters on the Gen 5 V8s. I think this code relates to the oil flow control system. Give me an hour or so.

 

Yes it has a PF63E filter.
I did some research on it and from my understanding this system is supposed to do an oil pressure check on cold engine start up where the pressure switches back and forth between high and low. Then while in use the pressure should rise at higher RPMs and drop when at idle.
I can see the pressure is staying high all the time. I suspect that's why the ck engine light keeps coming back.
Looking at the engine brake down I can see there is a solenoid on the pump/timing cover. Supposedly there is a solenoid that controls the pressure and I'm thinking its the solenoid on the pump cover but not sure. Talked to the dealership and got no where. They don't list a pressure control solenoid.
If I knew the part number I would order one and try swapping it out.

 

Your thoughts are on track with mine. This solenoid is either on or off. Off is high pressure and on is low pressure. This would create an electrical failsafe mode to divert to high pressure. I have not replaced one as of yet but Know I have helped Diag one before because the code seemed familiar. I would agree 100% with replacing the solenoid, given the code and the symptom. Ill try to round you up a part # tomorrow. This is the bad news. I think that solenoid is part of the oil pump. I don't see a service procedure for it's replacement and I know it is located on or inside the oil pump. Let me confirm this tomorrow. The best way to get at this stuff on the 4x4s is to remove the engine from what I have seen. Sorry buddy, Ill make sure of this tomorrow.

 

Hey good thing it's still under warranty!

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Hey good thing it's still under warranty!

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I could always put it back to stock. I've got all the parts. Probably easier to just fix it

 

I'm wrong it can be serviced alone. Talked to our engine guys and they are leaving the engine in the truck. Oil pan and front cover need to come off per GM service info. We have seen one oil pump failure and one solenoid failure. Not positive what the codes for each situation were. 12659935 is the solenoid # from GM I think list is 30ish $. Code P06DA can only set for an open circuit, high resistance, and signal performance. I still think this is a internal failure of the solenoid but anything is possiable. If you need more info let me know.

 

Thanks a bunch Mike. That really helps!
The local dealership here told me I had to replace the complete pump assy. They also suggested putting the OE tune back in it and see if it goes away. I admit I haven't tried that yet. Just seems like if that was the trouble it would have done it a long time ago. I've put like 13000 miles on it since the last time I messed with the tune.

 

The tune is not your problem. I don't even think you can adjust that peramater. It's not been defined by any calibration editing software I have seen. In fact I know you can't because some of the corvettes running 1000+ hp are having to pin the camshaft and eliminate the variable valve timing because the valve springs needed are so heavy they overcome the strength of the cam phaser which is oil pressure controlled. If it was controllable they would have in order to retain control of the camshaft. So in my opinion your tune didn't cause this issue nor will removing it resolve the issue. This crap is what drives me nuts about warranty policies. You never maxed anything you never even effected this components operation and yet by the book GM can deny the warranty claim. This is a parts failure and not a case of abuse. Lucky for you it seems your dealership has a brain and understands this.

 

You're brave for telling them it was tuned!

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So this is really weird but I may have found my problem. I'm pretty sure this is the connector that feeds the flow control valve solenoid.

It looks to me like these wires were cut. Really hard to get in there to see this but the other ends are about 2 inches short from reaching the connector.
It couldn't have been this way when I got the truck. And I'm thinking it couldn't have been this way for long without setting the fault code. So it had to happen recently. For someone to cut these wires they would have to have access, and knowledge. This truck was recently at two shows where the hood was open and people could have accessed it. Just don't see why anyone would do this.
The only other thing I could possibly see happening is critters got in there and chewed the wires. But I don't see any evidence of chewing, and none of my other connectors/wires have been chewed on.
This is really weird.
Anyway I will try to get in there and repair the wiring tomorrow. Hopefully it fixes the problem.

 

So this is really weird but I may have found my problem. I'm pretty sure this is the connector that feeds the flow control valve solenoid.

View attachment 771169

It looks to me like these wires were cut. Really hard to get in there to see this but the other ends are about 2 inches short from reaching the connector.
It couldn't have been this way when I got the truck. And I'm thinking it couldn't have been this way for long without setting the fault code. So it had to happen recently. For someone to cut these wires they would have to have access, and knowledge. This truck was recently at two shows where the hood was open and people could have accessed it. Just don't see why anyone would do this.
The only other thing I could possibly see happening is critters got in there and chewed the wires. But I don't see any evidence of chewing, and none of my other connectors/wires have been chewed on.
This is really weird.
Anyway I will try to get in there and repair the wiring tomorrow. Hopefully it fixes the problem.

How does this connector come off? Same thing has just happened to me and I don’t want to break it so I can reuse it.

 

Insane, do you have any car show enemies?

 

More I think about this, I think what happened is these wires were stretched. Most likely when the truck was built. But they were stretched tight and over time with engine movement, heat, they finally fatigued and broke right at the connector.
What else makes sense?
If someone cut them there would still be enough wire to reach the connector. And if critters chewed them they would leave teeth marks.
Theres at least 2 inches from the connector to the wires. Its difficult to get in there but I can't even pull the wires over to reattach them. I'm going to have to solder splice some extensions to reach the connector in order to repair it.

 

Figured I would do follow up on this for anyone interested.

This is the wires in the harness. Not much sticking out. Obviously too short to begin with.
The bracket is held on in two places with 10mm head bolts. Then bend out to gain some wire to work with. The bracket and harness are available from the dealer. Special order. I wanted to get this back on the road so I chose to solder a short splice section and get r dun.

The terminals can be serviced by clicking the tiny red clip inside the connector to the side and the leeds will come right out.

I re used the original terminals by opening them carefully installing new wires, recrimp, and solder the new wires to the terminals.

After this I finished up with some electrical tape and coated the terminal with di electric grease.

Cleared the code and test drove. All is good.
Now I can go fishing

 

Figured I would do follow up on this for anyone interested.

View attachment 771369
This is the wires in the harness. Not much sticking out. Obviously too short to begin with.
The bracket is held on in two places with 10mm head bolts. Then bend out to gain some wire to work with. The bracket and harness are available from the dealer. Special order. I wanted to get this back on the road so I chose to solder a short splice section and get r dun.

View attachment 771377
The terminals can be serviced by clicking the tiny red clip inside the connector to the side and the leeds will come right out.

View attachment 771401
I re used the original terminals by opening them carefully installing new wires, recrimp, and solder the new wires to the terminals.

View attachment 771385

View attachment 771393

After this I finished up with some electrical tape and coated the terminal with di electric grease.

Cleared the code and test drove. All is good.
Now I can go fishing

I have this same code on a 6.2L GMC 1500 I am praying this would be my fix as my wheel bear hub just went out on my Avalanche a $485 fix at my mechanic when driving home the oil sending unit out so I did that myself NOT FUN!!! but did find a video for that, that didn't require a intake pull and it worked! $55 fix instead of $900 at the dealer. Then now I have this dang P06DA code on my GMC that you did. It looks like the connector is somewhere behind the crank pully or just above it. Can you please tell me what all you had to remove and the process of getting to the connector to inspect it? Not fun here in Indy working in the winter my job yesterday was in 20mph winds with wind chills in the teens so, any time saving tips you can give to inspect this would be very helpful. Any other advice would be great too, my oil pressure seems fine running between 40 and 60psi. Last week I had this code and one for the throttle position P0121 so I cleaned the throttle body around the butterfly and that code went away. I was having the engine light go off for a while on it's own but then would come back on several times. Finally I called may Onstar and asked for the codes the gave me the two but, told me the P06DA was a temperature problem but, doesn't seem to be the case does it? Any help you can give would be helpful because I'm broke right now but can turn wrenches in the driveway.

Thanks!

 

I took my truck to the dealership and they said the oil pressure sensor needed to be replaced. They quoted 2.5 hours or labor plus parts for a $300 total. What didn't make sense to me was that the oil pressure gauge always read correctly and the P06DA code referred to the oil pressure control circuit.

I looked all over the place to see if anyone else was in the same predicament and I found your post. I honestly didn't believe that this would be the culprit, but as soon as I put my finger on the sensor, I felt the stubs of the wire sticking out. There wasn't any evidence of chewing and it didn't look like it was cut, so I'm going to agree with your hypothesis that the wiring harness was stretched tight at the factory and worked it's way apart over time. It took me a while to figure out how to get the plug apart, but once it was open, a little solder, new wires, heatshrink tubing, and electrical tape cleared the code.

Thank you for taking some time and putting this information out there! Aside from time, this was a free fix. You just saved me a few hundred dollars and a bunch of headache!

 

Sweet! Glad it helped!
And thanks for the comments

 

Your thoughts are on track with mine. This solenoid is either on or off. Off is high pressure and on is low pressure. This would create an electrical failsafe mode to divert to high pressure. I have not replaced one as of yet but Know I have helped Diag one before because the code seemed familiar. I would agree 100% with replacing the solenoid, given the code and the symptom. Ill try to round you up a part # tomorrow. This is the bad news. I think that solenoid is part of the oil pump. I don't see a service procedure for it's replacement and I know it is located on or inside the oil pump. Let me confirm this tomorrow. The best way to get at this stuff on the 4x4s is to remove the engine from what I have seen. Sorry buddy, Ill make sure of this tomorrow.

I have the same code on 2014 silverado 1500 4.3 with 62k miles. My oil pressure is a little higher than normal. my question is it OK to drive with this for the next week or two until I can jump into this motor? Also do i replace just the Solenoid or the whole oil pump? Thankyou

 

How did it resolve? Having the same issue on my 2014 4.3 and don't wanna get taken by the dealership if the wiring harness or connector was the same issue for you as well. I know my situation could be different but update would be helpful thanks!

 

Check your wiring harness and connectors first! You may have a relatively simple repair.

You need to do a pin point inspection and diagnose whether you need to replace solenoid or pump or both. You may end up not needing either. Like the OP

As for driving with high pressure I believe the only issue is fuel mileage and HP will be effected. Otherwise I can't think of anything serious, but honestly its not something I would leave unaddressed.

Hopefully its something simple like mine was. And if you haven't done it you might want to read this entire thread.

Good luck!

 

wot is the best way to the connector off 6???

 

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Disregard. The photos really help. When I get somewhere I can look at it I'll check this. Hope it's the same thing

 

So my check engine light came on last night on my way home from work.
My scanner shows a code PO6DA but for some reason it says "no information available" for this trouble code.
I tried searching on line and I found some references to a code PO6DA for oil pressure but none that contained any references for a 2016 Silverado.
I did notice my oil pressure is running a little higher than normal. 60 psi where as it normally runs around 40 psi at operating temp.
Engine runs fine. Don't notice anything other than the higher than normal pressure, and check engine light on.
I did clear it and it comes right back so its a hard failure.
For the record this is a 2016 5.3L Silverado and it now has 28000 miles on it. The AFM is turned off and has been since around 13000 miles. Oil is brand new just changed it last week.
Anyone have experience with diagnosing this code?

Your probably have a bad oil silenoid it is located on the oil pump .when that goes out, your engine light will turn on.

 

Did you read the thread? I believe he figured this out about 6 years ago.

 

I cant seem to get this clip out. Its the same type that runs to the brake fluid resevoir but I cannot for the life of me get this one out. The area to work in is rediculously tight and your hand needs to be backwards or something.

 

What clip? What truck? What engine?