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Ck engine light DTC PO6DA

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56K views 26 replies 14 participants last post by  RedSLEd  
#1 ·
So my check engine light came on last night on my way home from work.
My scanner shows a code PO6DA but for some reason it says "no information available" for this trouble code.
I tried searching on line and I found some references to a code PO6DA for oil pressure but none that contained any references for a 2016 Silverado.
I did notice my oil pressure is running a little higher than normal. 60 psi where as it normally runs around 40 psi at operating temp.
Engine runs fine. Don't notice anything other than the higher than normal pressure, and check engine light on.
I did clear it and it comes right back so its a hard failure.
For the record this is a 2016 5.3L Silverado and it now has 28000 miles on it. The AFM is turned off and has been since around 13000 miles. Oil is brand new just changed it last week.
Anyone have experience with diagnosing this code?
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Yes it has a PF63E filter.
I did some research on it and from my understanding this system is supposed to do an oil pressure check on cold engine start up where the pressure switches back and forth between high and low. Then while in use the pressure should rise at higher RPMs and drop when at idle.
I can see the pressure is staying high all the time. I suspect that's why the ck engine light keeps coming back.
Looking at the engine brake down I can see there is a solenoid on the pump/timing cover. Supposedly there is a solenoid that controls the pressure and I'm thinking its the solenoid on the pump cover but not sure. Talked to the dealership and got no where. They don't list a pressure control solenoid.
If I knew the part number I would order one and try swapping it out.
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
Thanks a bunch Mike. That really helps!
The local dealership here told me I had to replace the complete pump assy. They also suggested putting the OE tune back in it and see if it goes away. I admit I haven't tried that yet. Just seems like if that was the trouble it would have done it a long time ago. I've put like 13000 miles on it since the last time I messed with the tune.
 
So this is really weird but I may have found my problem. I'm pretty sure this is the connector that feeds the flow control valve solenoid.

connector1S-1163.jpg


It looks to me like these wires were cut. Really hard to get in there to see this but the other ends are about 2 inches short from reaching the connector.
It couldn't have been this way when I got the truck. And I'm thinking it couldn't have been this way for long without setting the fault code. So it had to happen recently. For someone to cut these wires they would have to have access, and knowledge. This truck was recently at two shows where the hood was open and people could have accessed it. Just don't see why anyone would do this.
The only other thing I could possibly see happening is critters got in there and chewed the wires. But I don't see any evidence of chewing, and none of my other connectors/wires have been chewed on.
This is really weird.
Anyway I will try to get in there and repair the wiring tomorrow. Hopefully it fixes the problem.
 

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Discussion starter · #13 ·
More I think about this, I think what happened is these wires were stretched. Most likely when the truck was built. But they were stretched tight and over time with engine movement, heat, they finally fatigued and broke right at the connector.
What else makes sense?
If someone cut them there would still be enough wire to reach the connector. And if critters chewed them they would leave teeth marks.
Theres at least 2 inches from the connector to the wires. Its difficult to get in there but I can't even pull the wires over to reattach them. I'm going to have to solder splice some extensions to reach the connector in order to repair it.
 
Figured I would do follow up on this for anyone interested.

brokenwires1-1165.jpg

This is the wires in the harness. Not much sticking out. Obviously too short to begin with.
The bracket is held on in two places with 10mm head bolts. Then bend out to gain some wire to work with. The bracket and harness are available from the dealer. Special order. I wanted to get this back on the road so I chose to solder a short splice section and get r dun.

connector3-1164.jpg

The terminals can be serviced by clicking the tiny red clip inside the connector to the side and the leeds will come right out.

connrepair2-1166.jpg

I re used the original terminals by opening them carefully installing new wires, recrimp, and solder the new wires to the terminals.

connrepair1-1167.jpg


splice1-1168.jpg


After this I finished up with some electrical tape and coated the terminal with di electric grease.

Cleared the code and test drove. All is good.
Now I can go fishing :)
 

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Discussion starter · #18 ·
Check your wiring harness and connectors first! You may have a relatively simple repair.

You need to do a pin point inspection and diagnose whether you need to replace solenoid or pump or both. You may end up not needing either. Like the OP

As for driving with high pressure I believe the only issue is fuel mileage and HP will be effected. Otherwise I can't think of anything serious, but honestly its not something I would leave unaddressed.

Hopefully its something simple like mine was. And if you haven't done it you might want to read this entire thread.

Good luck!