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Confused on front diff fluid??

130K views 18 replies 11 participants last post by  big reyn  
#1 ·
I've googled the crap out of this topic and still can't find a definite answer. On my '03 Sierra 1500 Z71, I know it calls for 80-90 gear oil for the front diff. I've read where you can put synthetic 75-90 all the way around, but I go by the book. Plus, I read all these "depends on what color vent cap you have" (mine is black) and on and on. The truck is old, looks like the axle seals are starting to seep, I'm gonna just go with 80-90. My question, why can't I find a regular brand name 80-90??? The closest thing I found was Valvoline, but it said limited slip on the front of the bottle. There are store brands that are just straight up 80-90. Here's what I did, I changed it with the Valvoline and WOW, I'm afraid there are some issues in there. The fluid looked like silver paint...not good. No noise, 4x4 works, just looked bad. I'm gonna run it a few days and change it again. So, do I put the Valvoline (with limited slip wrote on the front of the bottle) back in there, or is there a different recommendation from you guys? Thanks.
 
#2 ·
The fluid was silver going in?

Just run 75w 90 all around.

There is no downside to running synthetic all around.

Do you have a G80?

Of so, use any name brand (I used mobile 1 synthetic) oil. It might say limited slip but there shouldn't be much is any modifyer in it.

Do not add anything either way though. The G80 is a locker and requires no lsd additives. If you experience some chatter then you can add a small amount until the chatter stops.
 
#3 ·
We use Valvoline 80w-90 in all out front and most of our rear differentials. In the owners manual and Chilton service manual the fluid recommended for the rear ends on these trucks is suppose to be 75W-90 synthetic, probably because of the G80.

Those silver flakes are most likely the result of friction within the axles and wearing off metal. That's close to what we pulled out along with exploded axle parts when our C6500 dump truck axle broke.
 
#4 ·
The only thing I can think of, was the TSB down below, that covers your year of truck.

Read it, and you can see where some of that information comes into play.

Subject: Info - Use of Synthetic Front Axle Lubricant For 4WD Vehicles Sold in Cold Weather Climates #03-04-19-001B - (09/03/2004)

Models: 2002-2004 Chevrolet Avalanche 2500, Silverado 2500/3500, Suburban 2500

2002-2003 Chevrolet Silverado 1500HD

2002-2004 GMC Sierra 2500/3500, Yukon XL 2500

2002-2003 GMC Sierra 1500HD

with Four-Wheel Drive and 9.25" Front Axle Assemblies and Built Prior to April 1, 2004

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

This bulletin is being revised to update vehicle applications, part numbers and fluid fill information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-04-19-001A (Section 04 -- Driveline/Axle).

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Important: This bulletin is intended for vehicles sold in very cold weather climates, especially those in Alaska and certain regions of Canada.
Important: This bulletin DOES NOT apply to vehicles built after April 1, 2004. Vehicles referenced above that were built after April 1, 2004 were manufactured with front axles containing synthetic axle lubricant and do not need to have the front axle fluid inspected or changed.
Front axles in the above-listed vehicles built before April 1, 2004 are manufactured with mineral-oil base axle fluid. Because of the 9.25" front axle assembly's internal design characteristics, there may be insufficient lubrication flow at very low ambient temperatures (-24°C (-12°F) or below). This may contribute to premature pinion bearing wear if a vehicle is driven extensively in very low ambient temperatures.
Important: Please be certain that PDI personnel know to perform the drain/refill procedure all year round (not just in the cold weather months).
New vehicles that are expected to operate extensively in 4WD in temperatures below -24°C (-12°F) should have their front axle fluid drained and refilled with synthetic axle lubricant during PDI or before delivery to the first retail customer.
Follow the Front Drive Axle Lubricant Replacement procedure found in the Service Manual (SI Document ID #673354). It is not necessary to flush the front axle assembly. Use Synthetic Axle Lubricant, P/N 12378261 or P/N 89021677 (Canadian P/N 10953455 or P/N 89021678 ). Each of these part numbers is the same axle lubricant, with differences in packaging only. Fill to a level between 6 and 9 mm (0.25 in to 0.375 in) below the bottom of the fill plug.
For vehicles that have the axle lubricant changed, the front axle vent hose connector assembly will need to be inspected.
Important: Front axle assemblies with a vent hose connector assembly that is white in color do not need to be changed.
If the vent hose connector is black in color, it will need to be changed so that the O-ring seal is compatible with the synthetic lubricant. Install vent connector, P/N 12479390 . Follow the Front Drive Axle Vent Hose Connector Replacement procedure in the Service Manual (SI Document ID #843184).
Parts Information
Part Number Description Qty
12378261 or 89021677
(Canadian P/N 10953455 or 89021678 ) Oil, Synthetic Gear 2
12479390 Connector, Axle Vent 1
 
#5 ·
19trax95 said:
The fluid was silver going in?

Just run 75w 90 all around.

There is no downside to running synthetic all around.

Do you have a G80?

Of so, use any name brand (I used mobile 1 synthetic) oil. It might say limited slip but there shouldn't be much is any modifyer in it.

Do not add anything either way though. The G80 is a locker and requires no lsd additives. If you experience some chatter then you can add a small amount until the chatter stops.
No, looked silver coming out. I was just shocked at the amount of shavings at 68,000 miles.
 
#6 ·
It's not unusual for diffs to have a lot of metal in them on the first change. (Assuming it's the first one).

The gears break in and the result is metal in the oil. That's why the first service, it's good to do it early to get that out of there.

As long as there wasn't any chunks or large fragments you should be fine.
 
#7 ·
The 75W and 80W are the cold weather viscosities of the fluid measured at 40°C. Both are 90 wt at operating temps 100°C.

75W-90 is now the preferred lube to use. Its a more fuel efficient choice

Magnetic drain plugs in drive axles, transmissions and transfer cases are designed to attract metallic particles generated during normal operation and prevent them from passing through the gears or bearing.

During service repairs and maintenance, inspect the drain plug for large metal deposits. Small metal flakes and fine metal dust on the plug magnet are considered normal.

Large metal deposits or particles on the plug magnet, such as gear teeth, bearing fragments and large metal shavings, are not a normal condition. If these conditions are found, repairs may be needed to prevent further component damage.

What to Look For
When inspecting metallic particles on a plug magnet, it's important to determine the size and source.

Fine Metal Particles - Fine metal particles are normal and are the result of internal component wear, which can shed fine metallic particles at a steady rate.

Metal Shavings - Metal shavings, which are often remnants from the housing machining process, may adhere to the plug magnet. These shavings are not detrimental to component operation and do not require component replacement.

Bearing and Gear Teeth Fragments - Fragments from bearings and gear teeth indicate component damage that is not considered normal. Components should be inspected for damage and repaired as needed.

Fluid Conditions
The color of the fluid can be an indicator of contamination; however, some colors can be easily confused with the normal color of some fluids.

New fluid is usually red or light brown. With time and miles, used fluid often turns black. This is a result of the normal chemical process that occurs as the additive package in the fluid degrades. The black color does not indicate that the fluid's useful life has been exhausted.

When a fluid is a milky brown color, it may indicate that the fluid is contaminated with significant moisture. The fluid should be changed.

Water contamination of the axle lube also creates significant odor and forms corrosive conditions that will cause internal components of the axle to corrode. Milky-colored fluid combined with rust particles is a sign of moisture contamination either from submersing the axle vent, a pinched or misrouted vent hose, or a failed seal that is allowing moisture to enter the axle.

Under 5000 miles (8,000 km) of operation, hypoid axle lube may appear tinted and have a whitish or yellow appearance from the gear marking compound used in the production of the axle.
 
#8 ·
OP - I run 75W-90 synthetic in the front because of extreme cold winter time weather. You can stick with conventional 80W-90 in your front diff.
 
#12 ·
RagsMatt said:
You can use Synthetic in your front diff with no issues provided you replace your front differential vent connector, the original black one is not compatible with synthetic fluid.
Right. I want to put 80-90 in the front. Should I put the only name brand I can find, Valvoline, but it says "limited slip" on the front of the bottle, or Joe Blow auto parts brand that says nothing about friction modifiers on the bottle? Just wondering if a fluid with modifiers in it will damage the front diff.
 
#13 ·
The first time I changed my front diff oil on my 2003 it looked like silver paint too! I have changed it twice since then, truck has 117K on it now and is due again, and I use the Valvoline 75/90 synthetic. It doesn't hurt a conventional differential. The second and third time the old oil looked a little metallic and was much cleaner. I was worried I would have issues with my front diff but it hasn't given my a bit of trouble.
 
#15 ·
2003Z71 said:
The first time I changed my front diff oil on my 2003 it looked like silver paint too! I have changed it twice since then, truck has 117K on it now and is due again, and I use the Valvoline 75/90 synthetic. It doesn't hurt a conventional differential. The second and third time the old oil looked a little metallic and was much cleaner. I was worried I would have issues with my front diff but it hasn't given my a bit of trouble.
Good to know I'm not the only one with "silver paint" running out! Glad yours is holding up, makes me feel a little better. Thinking I'm just gonna stay with the Valvoline 80-90 even though it says limited slip on the bottle. The only straight 80-90 I can find is Supertech. I saw Amsoil makes a 80-90...its synthetic. Probably not a big difference between that and 75-90 synthetic.
 
#16 ·
Your front diff is "open" so using the 80W-90 with a limited slip additive isn't going to hurt anything. Manufacturers do this so the same lube can be used in both open and limited slip differentials.