You can take it anywhere you want to have the oil changed, or you can do it yourself. If you take it somewhere else, keep your paperwork. If you change it yourself, keep the receipt for the purchase of the oil and filter and record how many miles you changed it at. The instructions for resetting the DIC oil indicator is in your manual.

Everyone makes mistakes, it doesn't sound like it was serious, over filling for a brief time isn't going to hurt your motor.

BTW-Always uses Dexos speced oil when you have it changed or do it yourself.

For me, no matter where I change it, I am like you and always check the level on the street next to the dealership after I pull away from the dealer's service bay.

Enjoy your truck!

 

Seems quite bizarre that your truck would be filled much higher... guessing it was the tech filling it up, or he didn't fully let the oil drain/filled it with 6 new quarts and you end up with 6.5 maybe?

Ask to pop the hood on another new truck on the lot and check where that is/show them it shouldn't be over the full mark? I don't like the idea of the oil being higher than the full mark either.... unless you got a goofy dipstick by chance!

 

when I change my oil and filter on my 2010 When I put the 6 quarts in it reads above the full mark as well

 

Thanks for the reply. I Just don't want them to say I didn't do the paper work right if I do it my self. I'm a mechanic and it just got me when the service guy said these new engine's don't build sump pressure any more. Talking to me like I don't know anything, even if i wasn't a mechanic. I traded my 08' suburban in for this truck and I had it seviced there a few times and it was over filled twice, but I just took care of it my self. I was going to try and have them do it on that one for the extended warranty I had on it. I've used Valvoline on all my other vehicels. But of course that's not Dexos approved. I've thought about the dip stick being off. I'm going to take the oil and filter for it's second service and see if it reads overfilled. Just to show them that their full of it. I guess I'm just venting. It's been almost two weeks and it still gets me how they acted. It's my first new vehicel and I just want to try and do it at the dealer, but we'll see I guess

 

How far above the full mark was it thechevykid ? Thanks

 

I'd just change it myself and keep the receipts when you buy the oil and filter. document the date and mileage of when you change it as well. As long as you have the receipts and the other documentation, you will be covered for the warranty. As stated above, dipsticks are not always the most accurate measurement.

 

Above advice all correct. Myself, I would quibble over the Dexos idea. There are many oils that EXCEED the Dexos specification. But there is nothing wrong with sticking to the standard. Use of a non Dexos "approved" oil is not grounds for denial of warranty. Interesting, to get the Dexos "approval", a company only has to meet the minimum standard, pay a registration fee of $1000, and then pay $.36 for every gallon of oil they sell. Sounds like a racket to me. Either way, the Federal Trade Commission gives you some pointers that should make this clearer and you can have a peaceful night's rest......

http://www.consumer.ftc.gov/articles/01 ... aintenance

 

Above advice all correct. Myself, I would quibble over the Dexos idea. There are many oils that EXCEED the Dexos specification. But there is nothing wrong with sticking to the standard. Use of a non Dexos "approved" oil is not grounds for denial of warranty. Interesting, to get the Dexos "approval", a company only has to meet the minimum standard, pay a registration fee of $1000, and then pay $.36 for every gallon of oil they sell. Sounds like a racket to me. Either way, the Federal Trade Commission gives you some pointers that should make this clearer and you can have a peaceful night's rest......

http://www.consumer.ftc.gov/articles/01 ... aintenance

Why even go there? In the rare event of a motor failure - they are going to look at the oil. Just use Dexos and be done with it. Then if something happens it's a none issue.

Your right it is a racket...but it's not worth the fight when your motor melts.

 

Above advice all correct. Myself, I would quibble over the Dexos idea. There are many oils that EXCEED the Dexos specification. But there is nothing wrong with sticking to the standard. Use of a non Dexos "approved" oil is not grounds for denial of warranty. Interesting, to get the Dexos "approval", a company only has to meet the minimum standard, pay a registration fee of $1000, and then pay $.36 for every gallon of oil they sell. Sounds like a racket to me. Either way, the Federal Trade Commission gives you some pointers that should make this clearer and you can have a peaceful night's rest......

http://www.consumer.ftc.gov/articles/01 ... aintenance

Why even go there? In the rare event of a motor failure - they are going to look at the oil. Just use Dexos and be done with it. Then if something happens it's a none issue.

Your right it is a racket...but it's not worth the fight when your motor melts.

Nothing wrong with sticking within the GM guidelines. Many folks do not have a renegade streak in them that allows them to tinker with what the OEM states is required. They will not get grief from me. I have been at things long enough that I view OEM recommendations as merely a guide and not written in stone. Case in point, my Detroit Series 60 12.7L engine in my semi. OEM recommended drain is 15,000 miles. I use a high quality oil, use bypass filtration, use higher end Donaldson Extended Life full flow filters, and have the engine on an oil sampling regimen. I take the oil to 50% longer than the OEM recommended drain interval. This engine has 126,000 miles on it with a 300,000 mile warranty. I deal with a Detroit authorized shop (Interstate Power) near me and they have no grief over what I am doing. Everything is documented and proven. Considering that engine (including core charge) is roughly the same cost as most folk's complete Siverado pickup, I have no problem doing this. Detroit also recommended, for that engine, a CI-4 rated oil. I use a CJ-4 rated oil which, on every level, is far superior to the CI-4 standard.

As for GM's Dexos gig, I have no problem using an oil that EXCEEDS the minimum standard for Dexos, using filters that EXCEED the minimum oil filter standards, yet both are not "certified". The oil will be sampled just like I do with my commercial truck and other equipment. My bases will all be covered. Good luck denying a warranty.

Oh, and I misspoke regarding the racket fees charged. Check this oil industry article out. The racket is worse than I thought....

http://www.jobbersworld.com/The%20Jobbe ... %20pdf.pdf

And one is not going to "melt" their engine unless they run out of oil or use vegetable oil. As long as one uses any name brand oil the meets the grade and viscosity requirements and meets the ILSAC GF-5 or API SN standard is not going to melt their engine. Quit being so hyperbolic.

 

Just my thoughts:

After draining the old oil and removing the old oil filter, fill the new oil filter up with fresh Mobil1 until it will not absorb any more and install the new filter, tightening it 3/4 of a turn after the filter gasket touches the filter boss on the engine block. Put the oil pan plug back in correctly torqued. Add five (5) quarts of new Mobil1 oil and start the engine. Check the gauge for good oil pressure and stop the engine. The add enough oil to the engine to bring the oil level on the dipstick up to the "full" mark.
No more "over-filling".

 

My dipstick read about 1/2 quart over full when I filled it with 6 quarts and changed filter the first time, the next time I changed it I put in a little over 5 1/2 quarts and it is right on the full line, It just bothers me that the owners manual says 6 quarts on oil cap so to me thats what it should be not a litlle over 5 1/2 quarts oh well now I know, I just don't want to over fill it for sure although I guess according to the dealer it doesn't matter anymore.

 

Just my thoughts:

After draining the old oil and removing the old oil filter, fill the new oil filter up with fresh Mobil1 until it will not absorb any more and install the new filter, tightening it 3/4 of a turn after the filter gasket touches the filter boss on the engine block. Put the oil pan plug back in correctly torqued. Add five (5) quarts of new Mobil1 oil and start the engine. Check the gauge for good oil pressure and stop the engine. The add enough oil to the engine to bring the oil level on the dipstick up to the "full" mark.
No more "over-filling".

Now we're talkin'. Good 'ol common sense. Well said!

 

I don't trust the dipstick myself. There seems to be a potential for a lot of variability in that kind of measurement. The manual says 6 quarts, which is what the case is designed to hold, so I put 6 in. I recall being slightly over the hashes but not 1/2".

 

Yes, I know how to change oil. The whole deal is about the dealership acting the way they did. I guess I'll just be taking care of my baby my self. I would though like to teach them how to properly change it, or have one of there mechanic change it and not a lube guy that they pay $8 an hour.

 

I am sure the factory fill specs are right on... if you vacuum evac the oil out of the engine. Every Silverado I have owned has been over full when 6 quarts are added. I just add 5 and a 1/2 run it, check it and it is usually right on full.

I hear you though with the poor customer service, it makes me crazy. I run half of a large John Deere shop and am thankful every day that the top brass in the company are more concerned with keeping customers long term and doing anything we can to make the customer leave happy instead of making a quick buck.

They never question us if we have to lose a buck to make two down the road cause the customer will come back.

 

Does anybody think that two pieces of metal held together by two rivets (your oil dipstick) is right on?

C'mon now, if you do I have ocean front property in Arizona to talk to you about......

 

Well, what do you suggest we use to check for proper oil level? Just throw six quarts in and pray for the best, I guess.

Maybe GM just rounded it up to six, instead of 5.625 quarts.

 

If the manual calls for 6 quarts and 6 quarts puts the oil level over the full mark then that's the way I leave it. Crap, scratch a new full line mark in it and move on. I'm not gonna short the sump a 1/2 qt of oil just to be on the factory dip stick full mark. I've seen dip sticks off before.

 

Thank you^^^^^ I couldn't agree more, if it says six then do six, don't over think it.

 

I am no mechanic but I have changed oil on many different vehicles over the years. I have found that virtually that with every vehicle and every change, I wound up adding slightly less oil than recommended to get it to the top of the hashed part of the dip stick. This is after draining the oil for 20-30 minutes to get as much out as possible. I always attributed this to oil stuck in the motor and oil cooling system that simply won't drain out by pulling the plug.
If you are worried about a possible defective dip stick, find another vehicle with the same motor and use that dip stick to compare. Maybe the dealer could pull one from one of the trucks on his lot to check. I use the "capacity" spec only as a guide when changing oil. I always add about 1/2 quart less than is listed as the capacity and check it using the same method as BigBlueLB756 laid out.
Remember that you should check the oil level after filling and before starting just to be sure you have "close" to a full crank case, before running the motor, however, your true oil level should be measured after you run the motor for a couple minutes to ensure the oil has a chance to fill the whole system. Unless you prefill your new oil filter, it will suck up quite a bit of oil as the system runs and fills it.

 

I remember either my '99 F150 or my '03 Explorer said that after changing oil the reading would be above the full mark on the dipstick for a short period. I'd never heard such a thing before, but I'd change oil and it would be 1/2" or so above full for a few days. Then after that it would stay on the full mark till the next change. I'm not sure why this occurred. Never did make sense to me, but it was just as the manual said.

 

Well, what do you suggest we use to check for proper oil level? Just throw six quarts in and pray for the best, I guess.

Maybe GM just rounded it up to six, instead of 5.625 quarts.

Yep, do what the manual says-6 qts. That's what the manufacturer wrote in your manual-your covered.

 

had my 2013 in twice now to the dealer for an oil change and both times my truck came out with the oil being over filled.
ended up removing 1/2 quart and after the vehicle sat overnight the oil was right on the full mark.
I believe that they might not leave your oil drain long enough to get all the oil out, when checking my oil, I can check it 10 - 15 minutes after driving
the vehicle and I will show that I'm a little low, let it sit foe several hours or overnight and I'm right at the full mark.
I'm going to do my next oil change myself (no more freebees from dealer) I'm going to let the oil drain overnight and then fill in the morning with only 5.5 quarts
of oil, I believe I should show being a 1/2 Qt low, if my idea is correct.
not due of an oil change for awhile yet, but will report back what I find out.

 

Well, I changed my oil last week and I let drain for a while,took my time, filled it back up with six quarts and bam it's still appears over full.

 

Guess I'll just put in 5.5 qts instead of 6.
GM should either state the correct amount
Of oil in owners manual or install correct
Oil dip stick which ever is correct
A 40,000 vehicle owners manual says 6 qts,
The dip stick should read right at full mark
And not have any of this BS guessing on correct
level.