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Diesel in the Winter

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7.1K views 21 replies 7 participants last post by  Dmax life  
#1 ·
I've been asking a lot of questions lately on prepping my truck for my trip up to Alaska next month and most people here have been extremely helpful. I greatly appreciate that!

Before I make the journey I figured it was time to ask if there are thoughts on what I might need to do for my truck to be winterize for the trek. This is my first diesel in these conditions and Canada/Alaska will be quite frigid.

I will note a couple of things. I lived in AK 3 years ago and do have experience in winter diving. This is more in preparing my truck. I have already replaced the tires to be more winter friendly and just ordered appropriate tire chains after extensive research (these will be more for if the condition get to be quite severe). I also have a block heater and will be carrying a rechargeable power pack should I not have access to a plug-in at a hotel.

With all that, I now need your experience and thoughts.
 
#2 ·
These trucks start extremely well in cold temps.

You can plug the truck in, which will help speed things up, but any portable power pack short of a generator won't do much. The block heater is around 800-1000 watts, so you'll be pulling around 7-9 amps whenever it's plugged in. That will drain a power pack pretty quick.

Also, dropping to a 5w40 oil wouldn't be a bad idea. Will help a little in the really cold weather.

Oil pan heaters and trans pan heaters wouldn't be a bad idea, but that's just more stuff to go wrong and plug in.

As for the fuel, I would absolutely run a good additive designed to help reduce fuel gel. Optilube has a winter blend.

I would also carry a bottle of diesel 911 with you. This is NOT and every day additive. It is an emergency additive to help get fuel that has already gelled, to un-gel. A spare fuel filter also wouldn't be a bad thing to have.

If you find yourself with gelled fuel, and need to get going asap, dump some diesel 911 in the tank, put some in the fuel filter, let it sit for a minute, prime the system and crank it.

Also important is to make darn sure your batteries are in good shape. When cold, the diesels take quite a bit to get them cranking. But like I mentioned, the duramax motors start the best of any of them in the cold, so you ideally won't be cranking it long anyway.
 
#3 ·
unless I over looked the mention, anti freeze.
Get it tested, depending on what area/part of Alaska you will need full strength coolant, not 50/50.

was there twice when I was younger for a total of 5 years (still have family there).
if this is your first trip, prepare well. I experienced temps -35 to -40's
it can get fatal real quick.
 
#4 ·
19trax95 said:
These trucks start extremely well in cold temps.

You can plug the truck in, which will help speed things up, but any portable power pack short of a generator won't do much. The block heater is around 800-1000 watts, so you'll be pulling around 7-9 amps whenever it's plugged in. That will drain a power pack pretty quick.

Also, dropping to a 5w40 oil wouldn't be a bad idea. Will help a little in the really cold weather.

Oil pan heaters and trans pan heaters wouldn't be a bad idea, but that's just more stuff to go wrong and plug in.

As for the fuel, I would absolutely run a good additive designed to help reduce fuel gel. Optilube has a winter blend.

I would also carry a bottle of diesel 911 with you. This is NOT and every day additive. It is an emergency additive to help get fuel that has already gelled, to un-gel. A spare fuel filter also wouldn't be a bad thing to have.

If you find yourself with gelled fuel, and need to get going asap, dump some diesel 911 in the tank, put some in the fuel filter, let it sit for a minute, prime the system and crank it.

Also important is to make darn sure your batteries are in good shape. When cold, the diesels take quite a bit to get them cranking. But like I mentioned, the duramax motors start the best of any of them in the cold, so you ideally won't be cranking it long anyway.
First of all, I really appreciate your thought out response. It is very useful!

I was considering the oil pan heater and battery blankets/warmers but didn't consider the trans heater. Wat are your thoughts on the battery blankets? I think I'm pretty sure I'll do both the pan heaters.

The additive is what I needed to hear. That i didn't know about. The 911 I did and I will get that.

I was thinking about the oil and anti freeze (thanks GrandpPaJoe) but the tech at the chevy service center told me that I wouldn't need to change viscosity and that I could keep what I have. Does that sound right? I'm used to changing it in harsher winters with other vehicles I've owned.

I also want to carry extra DEF but I'm not sure how to store it without it freezing. It'll be in the bed of the truck with my camper shell on. Any thoughts?
 
#6 ·
GrandPaJoe said:
unless I over looked the mention, anti freeze.
Get it tested, depending on what area/part of Alaska you will need full strength coolant, not 50/50.
A 50/50 mix of antifreeze/water will prevent any freezing down to -34F. A 60/40 mix of antifreeze will prevent any freezing down to -62F.

That being said, there have been many times I've been in temps lower than -34F (lowest was -51F) and all I had was a 50/50 mix. The coolant turned into a bit of a slush yet still flowed. I'd do the 60/40 mix if I was going to spend a prolonged period of time in super subzero temps.

Where is it you are going in Alaska? I ask because many states down here in the lower 48 have colder winters than say, Anchorage. Fairbanks, on the other hand, is another story!
 
#8 ·
Full strength coolant is absolutely not needed, nor is it a good idea.

A 50/50 mix of dexcool is good down to around -35⁰F. If your concerned about it freezing if you think the actual air temps (wind does not factor in) will get below -35⁰F, then you can bump the concentration up to a 60/40 mix of dexcool to water, which protects down to around -60⁰F.

As for the def, it will freeze. Nothing you can do about it. The stuff in the tank will freeze, and any extra you have will freeze. Def will start to freeze up at around 12⁰. But the tank has heaters in it, and unless your towing, you won't be going through that much def anyway. So a spare jug of it will be enough for most cases. You can keep it in the bed and then if you forsee needing it, just bring it in the cab and let it thaw out. Just be very careful not to spill it, since it is HIGHLY corrosive and makes a mess on anything it touches.

Another thing that is likely worth while having, is a winter front for the truck. I run one on mine when it gets below 30⁰. It's a quick and easy thing to put on, and it will kept keep the truck warm. It's most useful on the highway since the cooling systems on these trucks are so effective, in real cold weather, you lose heat pretty quick if your not working the truck.
 
#9 ·
MacQ said:
GrandPaJoe said:
unless I over looked the mention, anti freeze.
Get it tested, depending on what area/part of Alaska you will need full strength coolant, not 50/50.
A 50/50 mix of antifreeze/water will prevent any freezing down to -34F. A 60/40 mix of antifreeze will prevent any freezing down to -62F.

That being said, there have been many times I've been in temps lower than -34F (lowest was -51F) and all I had was a 50/50 mix. The coolant turned into a bit of a slush yet still flowed. I'd do the 60/40 mix if I was going to spend a prolonged period of time in super subzero temps.

Where is it you are going in Alaska? I ask because many states down here in the lower 48 have colder winters than say, Anchorage. Fairbanks, on the other hand, is another story!
It's going to be Anchorage again for us. To be honest, I'm concerned with the drive in Northern BC and the Yukon. I know Anchorage is really not that bad.
 
#10 ·
19trax95 said:
Full strength coolant is absolutely not needed, nor is it a good idea.

A 50/50 mix of dexcool is good down to around -35⁰F. If your concerned about it freezing if you think the actual air temps (wind does not factor in) will get below -35⁰F, then you can bump the concentration up to a 60/40 mix of dexcool to water, which protects down to around -60⁰F.

As for the def, it will freeze. Nothing you can do about it. The stuff in the tank will freeze, and any extra you have will freeze. Def will start to freeze up at around 12⁰. But the tank has heaters in it, and unless your towing, you won't be going through that much def anyway. So a spare jug of it will be enough for most cases. You can keep it in the bed and then if you forsee needing it, just bring it in the cab and let it thaw out. Just be very careful not to spill it, since it is HIGHLY corrosive and makes a mess on anything it touches.

Another thing that is likely worth while having, is a winter front for the truck. I run one on mine when it gets below 30⁰. It's a quick and easy thing to put on, and it will kept keep the truck warm. It's most useful on the highway since the cooling systems on these trucks are so effective, in real cold weather, you lose heat pretty quick if your not working the truck.
Yeah I was thinking maybe I could bring it in a hotel at night and have it ready by morning. I might get some strange looks though.

When you say winter front, what are you referring to? I've never heard that before with vehicles.
 
#11 ·
One of these. It covers the grill opening to block the cold air from passing through.

I wouldn't worry too much about the def. You shouldn't be going through it at a rate fast enough to worry about it needing to be ready to dump in there. I'd just keep it wherever you want so it's out of the way, and them when you are close to needing to add some, just set it on the floor inside the truck and it will warm up as you drive and then be ready to dump in when you stop.
Image
 
#12 ·
The 2018 Diesel supplement disagrees with the dealer tech.

It says:
Viscosity Grade
Use SAE 15W-40 viscosity grade engine oil.
When it is very cold, below −18 °C (0 °F), use SAE 5W-40 to improve
cold starting. These numbers on the oil container show its viscosity, or thickness.

Having spent time up there you know better than me what temps to expect, but if it s going to be consistently below 0*F you might want to change it.

I assume you already have the block heater cord untangled from under the passenger side battery box.

GM has a winter fron available for use when it is below 0*F and if you are NOT towiing.
(every truck shipped to northern states and Canada was equipped with one)
If you don't have one they can be ordered from GM.
I've never used mine, but where I am it rarely gets below 0*F, but we do see lot's of 0*F to 10*F temps.
(I also never use the block heater for the same reason)

It will start fine, unassisted and no block heater at 0*F.

Check and see if the 'elevated idle' has been enabled in the menus.
This will significantly speed up the time it takes to warm the engine and transmission when cold started. Once enabled, it activates by itself when the ambient temps and coolant temps are low enough. Makes if great for using remote start from somewhere warm.
 
#13 ·
Farmguy said:
The 2018 Diesel supplement disagrees with the dealer tech.

It says:
Viscosity Grade
Use SAE 15W-40 viscosity grade engine oil.
When it is very cold, below −18 °C (0 °F), use SAE 5W-40 to improve
cold starting. These numbers on the oil container show its viscosity, or thickness.
Yep, should you run into those below zero temps up there in Northern BC, you are going to want that 5W-40. Going with synthetic, right?
 
#15 ·
I have still had supposedly treated fuel gel up. And that's in PA where it doesn't really even get that cold in the grand scheme of things.

I would absolutely run an additive with anti gel in it. And the anti gel is only one benefit of it anyway, but a fairly important part imo.
 
#16 ·
19trax95 said:
One of these. It covers the grill opening to block the cold air from passing through.

I wouldn't worry too much about the def. You shouldn't be going through it at a rate fast enough to worry about it needing to be ready to dump in there. I'd just keep it wherever you want so it's out of the way, and them when you are close to needing to add some, just set it on the floor inside the truck and it will warm up as you drive and then be ready to dump in when you stop.
Image
Unfortunately I won't be able to carry it in the cab with three teens and my wife in the vehicle. Not enough room. I'll figure out the DEF at some point.

As for the grill cover, does the GM one have you stick on nasty looking buttons to the grill like the Winter Front? I seem to be having issues finding the install instructions.
 
#17 ·
Farmguy said:
The 2018 Diesel supplement disagrees with the dealer tech.

It says:
Viscosity Grade
Use SAE 15W-40 viscosity grade engine oil.
When it is very cold, below −18 °C (0 °F), use SAE 5W-40 to improve
cold starting. These numbers on the oil container show its viscosity, or thickness.

Having spent time up there you know better than me what temps to expect, but if it s going to be consistently below 0*F you might want to change it.

I assume you already have the block heater cord untangled from under the passenger side battery box.

GM has a winter fron available for use when it is below 0*F and if you are NOT towiing.
(every truck shipped to northern states and Canada was equipped with one)
If you don't have one they can be ordered from GM.
I've never used mine, but where I am it rarely gets below 0*F, but we do see lot's of 0*F to 10*F temps.
(I also never use the block heater for the same reason)

It will start fine, unassisted and no block heater at 0*F.

Check and see if the 'elevated idle' has been enabled in the menus.
This will significantly speed up the time it takes to warm the engine and transmission when cold started. Once enabled, it activates by itself when the ambient temps and coolant temps are low enough. Makes if great for using remote start from somewhere warm.
I appreciate the oil information. I'm calling the dealer tech in Alaska today to get their recommendation as well.

I have not untangled the cord yet for the block heater. To be honest, I didn't know it was tangled/wrapped up. It's currently zip tied to the plastic cover under the hood on the passenger side. I was going to run a short extension cord out the bottom like I've seen in AK, but if all I have to do is reposition the cord then even better!
 
#18 ·
MacQ said:
Farmguy said:
The 2018 Diesel supplement disagrees with the dealer tech.

It says:
Viscosity Grade
Use SAE 15W-40 viscosity grade engine oil.
When it is very cold, below −18 °C (0 °F), use SAE 5W-40 to improve
cold starting. These numbers on the oil container show its viscosity, or thickness.
Yep, should you run into those below zero temps up there in Northern BC, you are going to want that 5W-40. Going with synthetic, right?
Oh yes! Definitely synthetic.
 
#19 ·
19trax95 said:
I have still had supposedly treated fuel gel up. And that's in PA where it doesn't really even get that cold in the grand scheme of things.

I would absolutely run an additive with anti gel in it. And the anti gel is only one benefit of it anyway, but a fairly important part imo.
After doing further research, I agree with you. I appreciate it!
 
#20 ·
The GM winter front just has little plastic hooks on the back that latch onto the grill bars. It's super easy to take on and off.

If you buy one, make sure you get it for the correct trim level. The high country grill is different than the others, so there is at least two different part numbers for them.
 
#22 ·
I live in Ohio and the weather is all over the spectrum. The one thing I done in my lly when I had it that lead me to repeat on every vehicle I own. Oil pan heater and battery blankets. It's a little overkill here until we get a change in the jet stream and feels like a Canadian invasion. How much experience do you have with this truck I the winter? If it's cold natured a grill cover. And replace thermostat with quality ones not rock auto odd lot repops. Fan clutch is also important to operation warm or cold. Fuel additive is all about what has worked for you. I use hotshots secret. 3 years ago on Jan 1 we got home from Florida. It was -30 windchill. My truck hadn't been started in 2 weeks and it wasn't going to. Poured in hot shots and let it sit for a couple hours and she took off. Also leave an opening about 3x3 in the bed. You won't even notice my existence.