Brake Hose Bracket Bolt

9 N·m

80 lb in

Brake Hose Clip Bolts

12 N·m

106 lb in

Hub and Bearing Assembly to Steering Knuckle Bolts

180 N·m

133 lb ft

Lower Ball Joint Stud Nut

125 N·m

92 lb ft

Lower Control Arm to Frame Nuts

175 N·m

129 lb ft

Shock Absorber Module to Frame Nuts

50 N·m

37 lb ft

Shock Absorber Module to Lower Control Arm Bolt - 1500 Series

50 N·m

37 lb ft

Shock Absorber Electrical Connector

20 N·m

15 lb ft

Shock Absorber Nut - 1500 Series

890 N·m

59 lb ft

Shock Absorber Nut - 2500 Series

24 N·m

17 lb ft

Shock Absorber to Lower Control Arm Bolts - 2500 Series

80 N·m

59 lb ft

Spring Jounce Bumper Nut - 2500 Series

30 N·m

22 lb ft

Stabilizer Shaft Insulator Clamp Bolts

50 N·m

37 lb ft

Stabilizer Shaft Link Nuts - 1500 Series

23 N·m

17 lb ft

Stabilizer Shaft Link Nuts - 2500 Series

23 N·m

17 lb ft

Torsion Bar Crossmember to Frame Bushing Bolt

95 N·m

70 lb ft

Torsion Bar Support Link Bolt

95 N·m

70 lb ft

Upper Ball Joint Stud Nut

50 N·m

37 lb ft

Upper Control Arm to Frame Nuts

190 N·m

140 lb ft

Wheel Drive Shaft to Front Hub Nut

240 N·m

177 lb ft

Wheel Speed Sensor Mounting Bolt

18 N·m

13 lb ft

Leaf Spring Mounting Nut

200 N·m

148 lb ft

Rear Leaf Spring Shackle Nut - 1500, 2500, 3500

95 N·m

70 lb ft

Rear Shock Absorber Upper Bolt - 1500, 2500, 3500

115 N·m

85 lb ft

Rear Shock Absorber Lower Bolt - 1500, 2500, 3500

115 N·m

85 lb ft

Rear Spring/Hanger Bolt

50 N·m

37 lb ft

Rear Spring Stop-3500

50 N·m

37 lb ft

Rear Stabilizer Shaft Insulator Nut - 3500

32 N·m

24 lb ft

Rear Stabilizer Shaft Link Bolt (Frame Side of Link) - 3500

95 N·m

70 lb ft

Rear Stabilizer Shaft Link Nut (Bar Side of Link) - 3500

53 N·m

39 lb ft

Rear Suspension Jounce Bumper

32 N·m

24 lb ft

U-bolts - 1500

100 N·m

74 lb ft

U-bolts - 2500/3500

160 N·m

118 lb ft

 

Also. View any of the rock auto videos on YouTube for replacing those parts and they will tell you

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Thanks for the replies gentlemen! I have one more question: I know I need to get my hands on a spring compressor to disassemble and reassemble the coilovers with the new shocks. Does anyone have experience with or recommend any specific model of spring compressor? There seems to be a lot of junk out there so if I can't have at least a moderate level of confidence in the tool I'll just take the coilovers to a shop and have them do it.

-DS

 

You can't do it safely with those compressors you can rent at autozone.

You need a wall mount, real spring compressor to do the job safe and right.

 

The Autozone Spring Compressors are too small and do not fit the coils correctly. I have used them in the past, but it is sketchy, and I used 2 kits to do each coil.

Also, if you have not already purchased everything, I would go with the Moog Problem Solver CK series Upper Control Arms.
--Upper Left CK80669
--Upper Right CK80670
I have heard of a couple issues with Dorman Suspension parts in the past. Nothing as of recent tho.
The Moog Problem Solver COntrol arms are very nice build quality, and seem to be thicker than stock.

The only difference on the HD CV shafts is the Boot being made of Thermoplastic instead of Neoprene.

 

@07nnbs, I did order everything already but I will look into the Moog components. I am surprised to hear about quality problems from Dorman, they seem to be some of the higher end aftermarket parts one can buy.

I ended up ordering "TRQ" (1A Auto house brand I believe) CV axles. Haven't heard any good news at all about cardone so for the same price I figured I will try them out and report back. I realize you get what you pay for in many cases but for 1/3 the price of ACDelco and no mid range option I may as well give it a shot.

-DS

 

Dorman is pretty much bottom of the barrel. There are very few products that dorman makes that I would even consider using. Some if their hard parts like differential covers aren't bad. But much beyond that, its junk.

Just ask around to any automotive shop worth their salt and you'll get the same answer.

 

Welp, looks like I should have done a little more research. The Moog's are way better reviewed than the Dormans. Moogs are on their way, Doorman UCAs will be returned. For the Extra $30 it's worth it to me. $160 for the pair vs $130 for the Dorman pair.

 

That is so funny to read all this. I ordered all MOOG upper and lower control arms. I received some of the parts in and they do seem nicer than the stock ones. I also found some axels that were made for lifted truck which has more angle articulation and more travel. It’s called TRAKMOTIVE GM8228XTT CV Axle, anyone have any input on this? I also noticed when taking it all off that my wheel hub bearing was moving, but sounded a bit rough, so I am replacing them
Both with MEVOTECH TXF515096 Wheel Bearing, which is supposed to be made for heavy duty and lifted trucks/ 4x4 and all that good stuff. I also am replacing the uppers and lowers with MOOG as well. I’m guessing they are identical to the same listed above in this thread. I can add that info if wanted as well.

 

...Moog makes multiple quality-level parts, you may wish to figure out which you ordered...

 

We've been discussing Moog's suspension parts over the last few days at the TahoeYukon forum. One fellas used their RK line and it wore out as expected within a year. Their CK series which is the same as ACDelco Professional/Gold have had their boots wear out prematurely after only 1 to 3 years and less than 50K miles on 3 trucks.

Don't know about Mevotech or Kryptonite but GM OE on mine is just fine after 2 years and 25K miles so far after replacement in 2021.

 

If I was you I wouldn't use moog bearings of any kind. They're all Chinese made crap. The last and only time I installed moog front hub assemblies the seals failed within a year. One only made it 8000 miles, the other 12,000. No more moog. Use GM oem or Timken.

 

Really? A sample of one means all the bearings that Moog sells are bad. Perhaps learn yourself up on things like the failure bathtub curve, and statistical analysis in general.

Hell, there's a decent chance it failed because you managed to bungle the install.

 

I would choose Timken over Moog but Moog isn't crap.