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Fuel gauge hits empty-check engine light

25K views 17 replies 9 participants last post by  06mainez71  
#1 ·
So, last night my check engine light came on. Today on my trip, my fuel gauge would drop to empty and the low fuel light would come on. It would go back to normal then drop to empty again with low fuel light on off and on for the entire trip. What am I looking at?
 
#2 ·
Pretty sure that's the float sender on the side of the pump. It will throw a code for that as well. Have you changed the pump? you can replace them separately but they usually come with a new fuel pump. I call it a happy gauge cause it waves at ya.
 
#3 ·
problem in fuel sending unit. I know there is a recall on my 06 trailblazer, not 100% on trucks from that year.

how many miles are on the truck? they just extended the recall to cover 100% of replacement cost on vehicles with 125k or less (I think it's 125....we have 156k on the trailblazer and it's not covered.
 
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#4 ·
The fuel sending unit on the pump assembly is probably causing the fuel gauge problem. I would have it checked for codes because I doubt the check engine light is caused by the fuel sender. You probably have two different problems.
 
#5 ·
#1 on the fuel sending unit causing the fuel gauge to drop out but together with the check engine light I'm wondering if you may have a bad or dirty connection at the top of the fuel tank. Like others have pointed out, I don't think the sending unit will cause a fault code. Try pulling the code & look it up before you do anything else. I'm thinking code will probably be fuel system related none the less but not coming from the fuel sending unit.
 
#6 ·
I've fixed multiple gm trucks and cars with bad fuel level sending units and they can and most will set a fuel level sensor circuit low code when circuit goes open caused by bad sensor. And food for thought on this. Only replace with an oem pump and sending unit assembly (trust me you only want to do this once) its more but ask me why I recommend oem pumps. Before replacing, as always , properly diagnose this circuit to make sure sensor is your problem. And replace pigtail at pump with new updated design because factory pigtails and know for poor connections and get hot and burn terminals ends and itll only cause you problems in the future if you dont. use dialectric grease on plug . Remember you don't want to work on the truck. You want to fix the truck

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#10 ·
abailey362 said:
problem in fuel sending unit. I know there is a recall on my 06 trailblazer, not 100% on trucks from that year.

how many miles are on the truck? they just extended the recall to cover 100% of replacement cost on vehicles with 125k or less (I think it's 125....we have 156k on the trailblazer and it's not covered.
Where is the best place to look for recalls?
 
#13 ·
there are 8 (?18mm?) bolts. You will need a breaker bar and extension as you have to be able to reach through the frame. Also you have to undo the tail lights from the wiring harness behind the tow hitch area and undo the 2 T bolts where the gas lid is.
 
#15 · (Edited by Moderator)
Guess what I did this weekend?

1389638939259.jpg


If you haven't bought the sending unit I can direct you to where I bought mine... I got an acdelco for $140.... if your truck is running you can probably afford to wait on it to be shipped.... save a ton of money be part store

Sent from my SCH-I535
 

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#16 ·
PR_Rado said:
iceman61 said:
If you do find yourself replacing the pump and sending unit assembly, this is the easiest DIY way IMHO. I have replaced quite a few in my own trucks.
How did you pick up and move the bed?

Nevermind.. Answered above.
Sorry I didn't get to this in time but glad to see somebody chimed in. When I did mine last summer, it took just me and a friend to get the bed off. We took the toolbox out first which was way heavier than the bed itself. Between the two of us lifting, the bed was a little heavier than I had expected but not really much of a problem for us.
 
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