You want to use a transmission cooler for a engine oil cooler?
Thats not good idea.
Either get a Rad with a EOC or just leave it alone.

Do you have a oil temperature gauge to monitor temps?

 

nah I just put this rad in, TOC only, canadian spectra 1 for 1...they dont have a 'HD' option for the 1500 - this rad fits all motors the year range.

EOCs and TOCs tend to be the SAME cooler design, either tube or stack plate and since the tranny and engine both send oil in bypass (.e. not full flow) the cold restriction of stackplate is not a problem....

My DIC has tranny temp only and since the LS does not use the maddeningly small gallery passages of the old small block, EOC is kinda more of a suggestion now that a must do...every little bit helps!

I intend on using this for a heavy coach so I am dotting the I;s and T's

 

The engine oil cooler lines are 1/8 larger than the transmission oil cooler lines...

 

But something, is better than nothing.

i dont have one.
in the last 30 or 40 swaps i have never sintalled a EOC.

so sometimes, nothing is better.

 

lol, ok that was funny.

in my last 30-40 flights, my plane didnt crash. So sometimes, who needs the FAA?

 

Personally, I would just get the other radiator and do it the right way like factory did it.

 

well thats just the thing, it appears that very very few actually HAVE this installed. I have been pouring over a large pick and pull in pittsburgh the last couple weeks, and on all the half ton LS trucks, I have found 0

My question was actually 'has anyone done it', it appears the answer is no? the factory installs EOC only if ordered, and internal TOC on autos. IF that was the 'right way' we would be done, but add trailer tow and the external cooler gets added on, add bigger trailer tow and a bigger cooler gets added, and you get me who just buys the biggest one made and installs it.

The engine oil cooler will cool the difference between oil after a long pull and coolant after a long pull so that is something, but it will never go lower. Since the 'hd trailering package' gave me what I got, it appears to not be a pressing consideration. An external cooler is not a bad idea. I suppose it would be silly to ask if any tow big things?

the 'right way' the factory is doing things appears to be 'bare minimum to not get sued in the first year'

 

The only things i install a decent size Engine Oil Cooler on is anything that is going to be drifting or autocross racing where rpms are usually really high for long periods of time.
If you have ever datalogged engine oil temps you wouldnt worry about it.
On my 2500HD (With Factory EOC) that i tow a lot with compared to my 1500 that i use to tow with and had a front mount turbo on. The oil temps are not much different. Usually less than 25*.

 

drifting, autocrossing, towng....

not sure what you mean by datalogging engine temps...like a scan tool that stores frame data while you drive? engine oil temp is typically not one of the things a tuner watches cuz nutting a tuner can do will affect it...

however, in my younger days when they were not giving away free college like today, I was a mover/trucker to pay the bill and the kenworth had a whole crap load of gauges, engine oil, coolant, tranny gear oil temp, axle temp and in a pull they showed exactly what you would expect. Up, going up, down, going down.

however, fluids, especially in a motor are one of those things where small differences in data (like temp of the oil) can make HUGE differences in the mechanics.

G-d INSISTS that over 212, water boils and a little higher with antifreeze, however in our engines the pressure increases OVER linearly once it is above boiling point, even if contained as a liquid.. pop a hose when the coolant is cool or warm and you just get green, orange or yellow liquid oozing. a much smaller leak vents with great force above 220+. someone once figured out "hey, we can make steam locomotives from this crap!" This steam pressure is sooooo violent that we pop off at what 12-16psi? cuz pressure increases EXPONENTIALLY.

in a tranny, the clutch pack seals get REAL nervous at 200F. by 240F, damage is done, engine oil is a little more resilient and in a more resilient package, but the shaft seals (front main, rear main, cams etc) are damaged above 240 and squirt it into the head, it cokes up and it sticks rings. every little bit helps.

so tie is all back in, outside of the 2500/3500HD trucks which have systems more akin to what I am used to...go order up a radiator for a 1500 - the same rad is specced for EVERY engine they used in my gen - 4.3 up to 6.0. 4 or 5 plate TOC, 3 or 4 plate EOC. thats not a lot.

fwiw where older gen 1 chevy small blocks required oil cooling as it got too hot too fast, NONE of my windsors ever required it. The only one that ever did was a monster 385-block that had a built in oil/water cooler, but then again it was in a 6 ton 1 car garage (a class C motorhome)...big things need big stuff.

 

Haven't had to add it because I specify that all mine have to have it. We do tow big from time to time but I don't look at the engine oil temps, just the transmission's temp.