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You think 12's needing a larger box than 10's is silly? Let's take a look at a few subs and their manufacturer's recommended internal volumes. The subs are the same model with the only difference between them being their size.

Rockford R2D2-10 - .59 cubic feet
Rockford R2D2-12 - 1.02 cubic feet

Rockford P1S4-10 - .5 to .85 cubic feet
Rockford P1S4-12 - .7 to 1.8 cubic feet

MTX TN10-04 - .75 cubic feet
MTX TN12-04 - 1.25 cubic feet

MTX 3510-02 - .75 cubic feet
MTX 3512-02 - 1 cubic foot

JL 10WXv2 - .625 cubic feet
JL 12WXv2 - 1.375 cubic feet

JL 10W0v3-4 - .65 cubic feet
JL 12W0v3-4 - 1.375 cubic feet

Kicker 40CWD102 - 1 to 2.4 cubic feet
Kicker 40CWD122 - 1.25 to 3.5 cubic feet

Alpine SWA-10S4 - .65 to 1 cubic foot
Alpine SWA-12S4 - .75 to 1.5 cubic feet
 
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kdh said:
sr975j said:
i personally would never put a sub smaller than a 10" in any of my vehicles. anything smaller just wont move enough air....in my opinion of course. and no, i dont have a link or facts to back that up. its personal preference.

Sam
You'd be surprised what you can do with an 8" in the right kind of enclosure. I fiber glass molded an 8" shallow mount into the jump seat location of my 92 s10 ext cab, and was very surprised by the amount of output it produced. It would actually walk all over entry level fosgate 10" in a prefab box that was on double the power.
A single Sundown SA-8 can do over 150db in a ported enclosure. They're very impressive subs.
 
I'm kind of disappointed in what's been offered for the price range OP is looking for..

you want to put out some extra money into three things when you're getting subs, IMO. Subwoofer(s), amp(s), and the box. Besides that as long as your HU (or EQ/line driver) is giving you a clean high RMS voltage signal and you have the crossovers set properly your system should be towards the higher end.

So what to look for when it comes to subs?
Consider the power handling(RMS), impedence, diameter, mounting depth, and freq range - match your amp to these speakers
Quality brands of subs (IMO, you might like others, there's no way I've heard every different sub/amp combo... take this as a point in the right direction)

Entry level -
Alpine - balanced SQ/SPL depending on the model of the woofer
Kicker - mostly SPL subs, no SQ (some models)
JBL

Middle of the road subs
sundown audio
there's a couple more I forgot.. I'll add later if i remember
hertz (arguably high quality, depends on the line of speaker, I like hi energy personally)

loud SPL oriented subs
digital designs
mmats audio

What about an amplifier you say? (Keep in mind, YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR)
Look for 1 or 2 channel amps, mono block class D for high efficiency, with a min imdedence of 1 ohm per channel, or bridged.
My top choice is alpine. I've never run their mono blocks but judging by the quality of the 4 channel alpine I ran for 2-3 years I have no doubt they put out their rated power with less then rated THD. Downside is they can be expensive.

Powerbass is what I've been running recently though, and I think they're great amps. However I believe they did discontinue the asa1000.1dx line that I've run. They put out their rated power. Other amps I would recommend considering are Polk audio (new class D models), DD, and hertz.

So you took all your time figuring out what subs and amp you want, but what about a box? This is one of the most vital components of your system. Depending on your style of music, you'll want a sealed or ported box.

Once you decide what type box you want, consider either building it yourself or having it built custom. (pre fab boxes are mostly junk and will leak)

A custom box can you net you anywhere from 3db to 9db of gain depending on the type of box, and it isn't usually too expensive to have one built. The difference between a pre fab box and custom built box are night and day, invest in a long lasting, awesome sounding box to begin with. Get it built for your subs, with the recommended air volume kept in mind. This obviously varies depending on what sub you pick.

if you want any sort of low bass with authority, I'd recommend getting at least a 10 inch sub, 8 works, but 10-12 are a good middle of the road and will play low with better authority.

This information is all my opinion and comes from the countless hours of research I've put into my own car audio system. I can't guarantee all the information I said is 100% accurate or up to some peoples "par" when it comes to brands or preference. However, I hope I was able to outline information in such a way that points the OP or anyone else reading this in the right direction. If you need more information feel free to ask me and i can share some of the resources I utilize with you.
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
Popsslowdog said:
Well Gents, Looks like the OP left the building early on the 31st-about post Number 7 on this thread!
I'm still here, just trying to take it all in before I decide, I have decided that I am going to get Rockford Fosgate Punch P3D4-10, but I haven't decided on the box or amp yet. I also don't want to comment and act like I know what I'm taking about, because I dont.
 
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That's why I posed that long explanation! lol we're here to answer your questions. I've been in your position before, overwhelmed by all of it until someone explained it to me.

We all start out not knowing anything, right?

never heard RF subs in person by the way, i think you might be able to find something with better value though.. for that price. let me know what you decide on! :D
 
I'm running rockford fosgate p3 10 with with a 1000 watt memphis amp under my back seat in a ported box and it hits very hard and has good range. I bought the speakers brand new on ebay for 325 shipped to my door. Audio shop around here said they had some they would sell me for 500 bucks. But speakers and amp online and get shop o install.
 
Make sure you have enough mounting depth for that sub, If you have a crew cab, you may. but extended probably not. You need 6-3/16" for that sub.
 
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kpkantor said:
Popsslowdog said:
Well Gents, Looks like the OP left the building early on the 31st-about post Number 7 on this thread!
I'm still here, just trying to take it all in before I decide, I have decided that I am going to get Rockford Fosgate Punch P3D4-10, but I haven't decided on the box or amp yet. I also don't want to comment and act like I know what I'm taking about, because I dont.
COOL, Hang In, lotsa good info coming ur way.
 
What type of music do you like to listen too? I run a JL audio CP108lg-w3v3. This system comes with a Jl audio 8w3v3 which is an excellent sub and comes with a ported box custom designed for this woofer and to save as much space as possible without sacrificing output and sound quality. I am a huge Sq head (sound Quality) and absolutely love this sub. It wont get screaming loud but for the box size and 8 inch woofer it produces an extremely clean sound and can hit if you drive it with the correct amp installed correctly. I have a standard cab and it fits right behind the driver seat and saves space. Thinking of getting a second one just to even out the sound in my truck. They are a little pricey at 250 each but in my opinion are totally worth it. Before this sub I ran a kicker comp rt10 which is a 10 inch shallow sub in my truck and the sound of the jl is way better and it hits almost as loud and is a lot kickier and accurate. Hope this helps.
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
My music taste varies with the wind, I listen to rap and edm some days and country an classic rock on others
 
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Discussion starter · #34 ·
If I get 2 subwoofers, dual voice coil 4 ohm and 500 watt rms, what amp/kind of amp do I need?
 
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