Changing the fluid in your transfer case is extremely easy. It's easier than changing your oil! Follow these simple steps to change your fluid:
1. Put the truck on ramps:
You do not have to do this--you can probably get under the truck without this, but it makes moving around underneath a lot easier, especially if you are a bigger guy, like me. If you do put the truck on ramps, BE SURE to set the parking brake, put the vehicle in Park (or gear), and chock the rear wheels. You need to be safe under there.
![1 Truck on Ramps.JPG]( "1 Truck on Ramps.JPG")
2. Remove scuff plate:
This is an optional step. I did not remove mine, and the fluid drained through the holes without issue. But, it may be cleaner if the plate is removed.
![3 scuff plate.JPG]( "3 scuff plate.JPG")
3.Identify the Drain and Fill Bolts:
I have marked the drain and fill bolts in this picture of my transfer case. Open the top bolt first. You may have a bit of leakage, depending on how full the case is. Once you have the top (fill) bolt out, then open the bottom bolt to drain the transfer case. Have a drain pan underneath, capable of holding a minimum of 2 quarts of fluid.
![2 ID drain and fill.JPG]( "2 ID drain and fill.JPG")
![4 draining.JPG]( "4 draining.JPG")
4. Note the condition of the drain bolt:
Mine had a significant amount of metal shavings on the magnetic drain bolt. I was surprised by how much, given that the truck only has 18,000 miles on it. You can see in the pictures how "gunked" up it is, and what it looks like after it is clean.
![5 metal shavings.JPG]( "5 metal shavings.JPG")
![6 clean plug.JPG]( "6 clean plug.JPG")
5. Reinstall drain bolt
6. Fill with fluid:
Look up the specs for your particular truck. My truck takes a Dexron VI compatible fluid, so I used Amsoil's ATF. Special thanks to StarSpangled6.0 for giving me some of his supply!
Fill using a fluid pump, by pumping the fluid into the fill hole.
7. Check for Leaks:
Ensure the bolts are tight, and wipe up any residual fluid, to ensure there are no leaks.
Now head out somewhere to go 4-wheeling, and enjoy your well maintained transfer case!
1. Put the truck on ramps:
You do not have to do this--you can probably get under the truck without this, but it makes moving around underneath a lot easier, especially if you are a bigger guy, like me. If you do put the truck on ramps, BE SURE to set the parking brake, put the vehicle in Park (or gear), and chock the rear wheels. You need to be safe under there.
2. Remove scuff plate:
This is an optional step. I did not remove mine, and the fluid drained through the holes without issue. But, it may be cleaner if the plate is removed.
3.Identify the Drain and Fill Bolts:
I have marked the drain and fill bolts in this picture of my transfer case. Open the top bolt first. You may have a bit of leakage, depending on how full the case is. Once you have the top (fill) bolt out, then open the bottom bolt to drain the transfer case. Have a drain pan underneath, capable of holding a minimum of 2 quarts of fluid.
4. Note the condition of the drain bolt:
Mine had a significant amount of metal shavings on the magnetic drain bolt. I was surprised by how much, given that the truck only has 18,000 miles on it. You can see in the pictures how "gunked" up it is, and what it looks like after it is clean.
5. Reinstall drain bolt
6. Fill with fluid:
Look up the specs for your particular truck. My truck takes a Dexron VI compatible fluid, so I used Amsoil's ATF. Special thanks to StarSpangled6.0 for giving me some of his supply!
Fill using a fluid pump, by pumping the fluid into the fill hole.
7. Check for Leaks:
Ensure the bolts are tight, and wipe up any residual fluid, to ensure there are no leaks.
Now head out somewhere to go 4-wheeling, and enjoy your well maintained transfer case!
