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MPG Rating

20K views 110 replies 38 participants last post by  ferraiolo1  
I typically get over 400 miles on a tank, I average anywhere from 16-18 mpg driving to and from work where it's a mix of city and freeway driving, around 75% city, 25% freeway. For reference, it's almost double what my 8.1L Yukon XL got in the same exact mix of driving, and the truck has more torque and HP...so it's a win-win. It's also better than my 07 6.2L Yukon XL which would get right around 14. I drove a 5.3L 2014 Sierra 4X4 for a while on the same to and from work conditions and it got from 17-19 mpg.

Going with the 6.2L was a no-brainer for me.
 
Ahhh...but that's just the thing. My vehicle with 3.73 gears is rated to tow just a touch under what his 3/4 ton is, and my GCVW rating is around 3K less than his. However, I also enjoy a full 2200 pound weight advantage over his rig. So that "extra" 3K lbs is actually 800 lbs. Add 4.10 gearing (when it's available) to match the gearing on his, and the advantage is gone.
 
I have. It says the following:

"If the vehicle has the 6.2L V8 engine (VIN Code J), use premium unleaded gasoline meeting ASTM specification D4814 with a posted octane rating of 91 or higher. Regular unleaded gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher can be used, but acceleration and fuel economy will be reduced, and an audible knocking noise may be heard. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 91 octane or higher as soon as possible. Otherwise, the engine could be damaged. If heavy knocking is heard when using gasoline with a 91 octane rating or higher, the engine needs service."

I have NEVER run 93 octane in my vehicle. In fact, 93 Octane fuel is not even available here. Regular unleaded fuel here is 85 Octane and I have never used it either.
 
Gearing does play a role in the GVWR. The GVWR is an oft-misunderstood rating, the GCVWR is more applicable when comparing towing with gear in the truck. Rarely will the GVWR be exceeded in a towing situation. However, for those looking solely at payload, GVWR is very important. So while pulling maximum trailer weight, the question is how much more can you carry in payload so you can accomodate your gear. A higher GVWR will allow more weight, but if the truck is also 2200 lbs heavier along with that higher GVWR, that advantage is lost. Because more of your GVWR is being taken up by the weight of your vehicle, as it is with the GCVWR. GCWR and GVWR both change with gearing on all GM product.
 
No. The basic 6.0 2500 does NOT have 20,700 GCVWR. It's actually 16,000 lbs.

What is your RPO code for your rear end? GT4?

BTW, if you are getting lifetime mpg of 14.5 mpg, the new 6.2 in those same driving conditions would be closer to 20-22 mpg. So don't sweat it, the 6.2 is far and away more efficient than the old 6.0. It's not even close. The old 6.2 was even more efficient than the 6.0..by about 10 percent.
 
I have. What is your RPO code for your rear end?

With regards to your bogus fuel economy and costs, regular fuel in Iowa (going by cheapest around) is 2.39 per gallon, Premium at the same place is 2.52/gallon. That's a difference of just under 6%. The new 6.2 on the highway is rated at 21 mpg highway. Even using your highly unlikely figure of getting 18 mpg average highway, but let's assume you are...the difference in mpg between the two is just under 17%. Easily paying for the extra fuel cost should one decide to go with premium on the 6.2.

The advantage to the 6.2 is that it is a far more economical engine, with better HP and Torque at every single RPM range vs. the 6.0. If I were towing heavy every day, I would probably feel more comfortable running a Duramax. But I can assure you that I would not pick the 3/4-1 ton gas engine from GM...it is far outclassed by other competitors and is in deep need of an update. It's inefficient and it tows like an absolute dog. My 1/2 ton NHT 6.2 easily trounces it in every single driving measure.
 
You are wrong, a 3.73 gearset is also an option on the 6.0 2500. If you saw the trailering guide you would know this. If you serviced as many vehicles as I do, you would also likely know this. You need to get your mind out of the inline 6 mentality where you fact check by trying to build using an online builder. I wasn't asking you to jump through hoops, I just was curious which one you have the only effort it would take is opening your upper glove box and looking at the RPO code.

Towing.jpg
 

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Copperhead said:
That info must only be on the door jam of a 1500. All my 2015 2500 has is OEM recommended tire pressure for front and rear axles and a statement that total weight of people and cargo should not be more than 2886 lb and for further information look at owners manual. Not a peep about GCWR, only max weight per axle and max weight of payload (people and cargo on board).

But you made the point well, JVD. many can't seem to grasp the difference between GVWR and GCWR. The 2500 can still haul quite a bit, even with a 13,000 lb trailer. And when the trailer is not being pulled, the 2500 can haul a total payload of almost 1.5 tons. And that is one of the reasons I got it. I will probably never tow anything near even what the 1500 6.2L max tow rating is, unless i get a gooseneck trailer I have considered. But I like being able to put a pallet of concrete, bentonite, drums of oil, or whatever in the back that weighs in over 1 ton and can be hauled quite comfortably.

So if we look at the GCWR of the 2500, 20500 lb, If I had hooked up a max trailer weight the 1500 6.2L 3.42 can pull, 11,700, I still have enough GCWR left over to drop in almost a full ton of cargo in the pickup bed itself. Not quite as I would factor a minimum of 10% of the trailer weight as tongue weight on the pickup, 1170 lb, and that would leave 1716 available payload in the pickup itself. Just shy of a full ton. No 1500 is going to come close to those capabilities. Irregardless of rear ratio, RagsMatt.
Irregardless is not a word. I grasp what GVWR is just fine. The GVWR of the 3.73 6.0 is 8600 lbs, the 4.10 is 9900 lbs. You can't simply add axle weight ratings to get the GVWR unfortunately. The frame and springs are identical between the two. The only difference is the gear ratio.
 
JVD_Sierra8speed said:
Copperhead said:
That info must only be on the door jam of a 1500. All my 2015 2500 has is OEM recommended tire pressure for front and rear axles and a statement that total weight of people and cargo should not be more than 2886 lb and for further information look at owners manual. Not a peep about GCWR, only max weight per axle and max weight of payload (people and cargo on board).

But you made the point well. many can't seem to grasp the difference between GVWR and GCWR. The 2500 can still haul quite a bit, even with a 13,000 lb trailer. And when the trailer is not being pulled, the 2500 can haul a total payload of almost 1.5 tons. And that is one of the reasons I got it. I will probably never tow anything near even what the 1500 6.2L max tow rating is, unless i get a gooseneck trailer I have considered. But I like being able to put a pallet of concrete, bentonite, drums of oil, or whatever in the back that weighs in over 1 ton and can be hauled quite comfortably.
Those 2500 HDs are immensely more capable than a 1500, and I dont think it would be wise to try to tow the max rating on a 1500 either as I'm sure that will be pushing the limits of the truck as well as the driver... I dont think the goose neck ratings for a 1500 come close to those of the 2500 either, a large trailer goose neck weight will be more than the pay load capacity of a 1500 truck lol that is where the 2500/ 3500 trucks come into play

I dont know why some need to argue the numbers when the numbers speak for themselves, any upgrade they want to do to a 1500 does not change the legal tow ratings which are ALL that matters
I am not arguing that the Towing rating is higher on a 2500. I know that. But I am not looking to max out my towing. What I am getting at is I have a set weight I tow right now. Right now that is around 7500 lbs with my TT. So pick the vehicle that does it best. The 2500 6.0 does N O T tow it better than the 1500 I have. I tow it around 8-10 times per year, so it's not like that is a primary concern, but it is definitely one. So I had a choice. Go with a Duramax which will shrug that load off like it's nothing....spend 7800 more on initial purchase, increase my cost per mile all year round, go with a 6.0 2500, get crappy fuel economy year round, or purchase a 6.2 1500 NHT and have close to the same towing capabilities as a comparable 2500, have the luxury of having more power while towing the load, and enjoy far better fuel economy year-round.

The choice was simple. For others that haul a couple tons of fat chicks in the bed of their trucks, a 2500 would make more sense. But I simply don't use my truck in that manner.
 
JVD_Sierra8speed said:
RagsMatt said:
The GVWR of the 3.73 6.0 is 8600 lbs, the 4.10 is 9900 lbs. You can't simply add axle weight ratings to get the GVWR unfortunately. The frame and springs are identical between the two. The only difference is the gear ratio.
I was under the impression that the up size in gears was an entirely different axle, hence the bigger GVWR of the 4.10s

Matt, are you a GM service tech? or work at a dealership?

Also, maybe those 3.73 gears for the 2015's were a fleet order option or something, not a customer option? just trying to explain why it shows it on your system but you cant build that truck on their site...

Cheers!
Jason
The axles are the same, in fact the 3.73 is available in dual rear wheel configuration.

And yes, I am a GM technician.
 
Copperhead said:
The info you posted on 3.73 was from 2011. Nice try. 2015 only 4.10 for gas engine. Open a 2015 Silverado owners manual and prove the 3.73 is an option. You can't

Oops, your post does show 2015. Can't speak to GMC offerings that you posted, but download a 2015 Silverado manual and it is not an option. Look, I spec ratios on a lot of commercial trucks. I have several extensive spreadsheets that can run road speed calculations across engine RPM ranges based on tire revolutions per mile, Trans gear ratios, and diff ratios. I know what I have in my 2015 2500. 4.10
Oh. I can. here is the Silverado Owner's Manual Towing Guide:

TowingSilverado.jpg
 

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Most of the issues have been related to Gen 10 Onstar, high frequency antennae, various infotainment quirks and failures, and haptic feedback seat motors breaking wires. Powertrain wise, early build injector failures on direct injected engines, fuel leaks at injector o-rings, and a few radiator tank leaks. Have had a few Mexico build transmission issues, but nothing to get too worked up over.

Most of the early build 2014 issues were teething problems that were fixed with various updates (reflashes for transfer case control modules, IPC, HMI, and radio reflashes, and some seat shifting issues that were fixed with updates as well).

My truck has been solid. Outside of the horrible OE tires that caused vibration and poor headlamps that was fixed with updated bulbs and a BCM reflash, I haven't had to do any repairs....and the tires would have been swapped out anyhow because the OE tires were not what I wanted to run at any rate.
 
BlackZ71Silverado said:
RagsMatt said:
I have. It says the following:

"If the vehicle has the 6.2L V8 engine (VIN Code J), use premium unleaded gasoline meeting ASTM specification D4814 with a posted octane rating of 91 or higher. Regular unleaded gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher can be used, but acceleration and fuel economy will be reduced, and an audible knocking noise may be heard. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 91 octane or higher as soon as possible. Otherwise, the engine could be damaged. If heavy knocking is heard when using gasoline with a 91 octane rating or higher, the engine needs service."

I have NEVER run 93 octane in my vehicle. In fact, 93 Octane fuel is not even available here. Regular unleaded fuel here is 85 Octane and I have never used it either.
I guess you don't understand that what it says in your owners manual is basically a warning. Hearing an audible knock is not a good thing. The 6.2L engines are designed to run higher octane fuel, 91-93 octane is what should be used or you risk damage. It's your truck though so do as you please.
As I said. I have never run 93 octane. I never will as long as I live in this area as it's not even available. I have never run "regular unleaded" either, and I have never had any fuel economy issues and absolutely no knocking whatsoever. But thanks for reminding me that it's my truck and I can do as I please. I certainly won't take the advice of someone who doesn't know what they are talking about ;)
 
Copperhead said:
Well, probably was getting a little snippy. After all, you have all but called me a liar about my pickup and my contention that I had 4.10 and a GCWR of 20,500, and getting the mpg I have.

Well, we are indeed fortunate that you are a GM tech. Here, take the VIN from mine and see if I have been telling the truth.

1GC2KVEG0FZ110203

Now, screen shot on my last road trip to St. Louis and Memphis. Normal for every road trip I have taken the pickup on. Not too bad for a 7000 lb vehicle and a 6.0L and 4.10. Every bit as good as the 5.3 / 3.42 combo that was in my 2013 1500. Didn't lose 1 mpg moving up to the heavier 2500HD.

Just wanted to let you know that you are quoting Pinnacle. I have not called you a liar, I was merely curious about your setup, that is all. You have a great looking rig. 9500 GVW is nice to have. FYI, on my truck my best mpg on the highway is 23.9 mpg over the same distance. Either way, you are doing well for a 6.0.